Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I bought my truck with what I felt were terrible brakes. I have replaced rotors, pads, shoes, and that made the pedal feel a little better, but still way to much travel. adjusted the rear shoes and emergency cables and such, which never would have worked without the adjustments. So i drove like that for months and yesterday decided I would fix it. The brake and abs lights never came on at anytime I drove it other then the self test it does.
I crawled under the truck and noticed a peeling of paint and a little damp spot where the master goes to the booster, so i changed it, first new one was bad, and caused the abs/brake light on, end of day one.
The lights went off the next morning for no reason other then it was the next day. So next master checked out good i bleed it and cap it off and stood on the pedal and did not fade at all, the first one just crapped out on that test. Got it all hook back to the truck and still no difference in pedal. And now I have the lights on again, and cannot get the dang light to blink when grounded out!
The abs light gets brighter but never flashes at all, on, off, on then grounded, off grounded then on, i tried everything.
I have checked the booster according to the manual and checks out fine, cannot figure out why the abs will not flash and tell me what is wrong with it? No more air anywhere, I will rebleed tomorrow as suggested before. I searched and read everything i could find here about the brakes last night. I understand the the rwal deal could cause some of this problem but I cannot get one for at least four days, I just would like to scrap the dang abs BS anyways, save time and headaches. But in a way I would like to keep it, but have a better pedal.
I have 1inch pedal travel before i even feels like the rod hits the piston, about 3 more inches of constant pressure then 2 inches of gaining pressure then final stops maybe 2 inches from being on the floor, with truck running. The same place the pedal stops with no booster help, but is a firmer pedal through the whole motion.
I seen what looks to be an adjustment on the rod coming out of the booster to take up the inital slack I might have to adjust, but doesnt this master have any preload??
Any other suggestions?
Need details on disconnecting, bypassing, plugging, replacing and costs, on the rwal, as it seems like the only thing I havent done yet.
Conversion to the hydro assist that was mentioned in a previous post by someone I cannot rememeber who? hutchew?
Any other ways to get good pedal, before this ends up in a chevy chassis?
Conversion to any other braking systems, disc, other manufactures, aftermarket replacements any and all?
Anything to give me pedal, I love the 02 2nd gen brakes, 2 in of pedal movement and your stopped!
jlast
I crawled under the truck and noticed a peeling of paint and a little damp spot where the master goes to the booster, so i changed it, first new one was bad, and caused the abs/brake light on, end of day one.
The lights went off the next morning for no reason other then it was the next day. So next master checked out good i bleed it and cap it off and stood on the pedal and did not fade at all, the first one just crapped out on that test. Got it all hook back to the truck and still no difference in pedal. And now I have the lights on again, and cannot get the dang light to blink when grounded out!
The abs light gets brighter but never flashes at all, on, off, on then grounded, off grounded then on, i tried everything.
I have checked the booster according to the manual and checks out fine, cannot figure out why the abs will not flash and tell me what is wrong with it? No more air anywhere, I will rebleed tomorrow as suggested before. I searched and read everything i could find here about the brakes last night. I understand the the rwal deal could cause some of this problem but I cannot get one for at least four days, I just would like to scrap the dang abs BS anyways, save time and headaches. But in a way I would like to keep it, but have a better pedal.
I have 1inch pedal travel before i even feels like the rod hits the piston, about 3 more inches of constant pressure then 2 inches of gaining pressure then final stops maybe 2 inches from being on the floor, with truck running. The same place the pedal stops with no booster help, but is a firmer pedal through the whole motion.
I seen what looks to be an adjustment on the rod coming out of the booster to take up the inital slack I might have to adjust, but doesnt this master have any preload??
Any other suggestions?
Need details on disconnecting, bypassing, plugging, replacing and costs, on the rwal, as it seems like the only thing I havent done yet.
Conversion to the hydro assist that was mentioned in a previous post by someone I cannot rememeber who? hutchew?
Any other ways to get good pedal, before this ends up in a chevy chassis?
Conversion to any other braking systems, disc, other manufactures, aftermarket replacements any and all?
Anything to give me pedal, I love the 02 2nd gen brakes, 2 in of pedal movement and your stopped!
jlast
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