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Friend has the TST 230/605 plate, So which injectors should he go with?

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I have a friend that has a 1998. 3 12v, 2500, 4x4 A/T 180hp California Model. He installed the TST 230/605 plate,Also has the 49 state intake runner "sans EGR Valve". He's looking for More Power now. The question is,Which Injectors should he be looking at that are still A/T Friendly?. 215's? or 275's (from Interprise). Thanks.
Doug.

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1998. 5,2500,ISB,Auto,CC,4x4,White Sport,Isspro Boost & Pyro,275hp Injectors,VA,BD Pressure Lock,16x8 Eagles,295 BFG's,2. 5" Skyjacker Lift,Stockland Seibring Shell.
26ft Weekend Warrior.
1973 R/S Z28 Camaro.
1989 Jeep Cherokee.
427ci 585hp L88 Crate Motor, Still in the Crate!.
 
How much smoke can he tolerate. The 230/605 with 215 injectors makes some smoke on startup. Initally was unacceptable smoke at altitudes over 4000 ft or hot days with heavy acceleration before the boost built up. Now being brought under control with the star adjustment in the pump. The 275 injectors might require addition of the spring kit in the pump. The 215 injectors with the 230/605 plate yielded 250 rear wheel HP on the BD/Valley Diesel dyno.

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'97 SLT 2500, 4x2 LB Club Cab, auto, 230/605 fuel plate and 215 injectors, pillar mount Isspro gauges, BD torque converter, BD valve body, BD Pressureloc, Mag-Hytec transmission pan and differential cover, 3. 54 LSD, white/driftwood, air dam, sliding rear window, towing/camper pkgs, Rhino liner, SS bed caps, stake pocket tie downs, chrome exhaust turn down, SS wheel well trim, Carr steps, Mopar mudflaps, Aerotank under seat toolbox, Cobra 75WXST CB/Firestik, J-MAC louvered aluminum headache rack and tail gate, Mopar flag/tow mirrors, Reese 15k fifth wheel hitch. Mopar Ram hood ornament, Sweet Tooth grill, and white dice. Kennewick, WA.
 
Just my 2 cents worth I would go with the DD stage II injectors. Same things apply as far as the smoke in Boldt's post but you gain about 40 hp. IMO you get a better injector with increased efficiency.

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1996 4x4 3500 4. 10 5spd, Diesel Dynamics stage 2 injectors, #5 TST plate, Govoner spring kit, 16cm2 housing with 4" exhaust, Cummins exhaust brake, US Gear overdrive, Grover air horns, Mag-Hytec cover, and more.
 
Boldt's Wagon---just wondering what BD T/C you are using with your power combination. I am about to put in 215HP injectors and do some pump "tuning" and hopefully get to about 250HP. I will then be installing the BD valve body (on order). I would like to go with the BD LS converter, but I am a bit hesitant to go with the LS... should I go with the MS. The truck is used for normal daily driving and I don't tow very often... I just hate that I have to rev it to 2000 RPM to get anywhere. Do you have any idea what your stall is now?? Any advice or experiences you could share would be great. Thanks

Matt

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'96 Auto, Reg Cab, 4X4, SLT, Line-X, Rancho 9000's, Dunlop Radial Rover 33X12. 5's
 
MPELTON1 - Valley Diesel installed my fuel plate, torque converter, valve body, and PressureLoc on the same visit. Dynoed 200 HP, 440 torque at 2400 RPM with 215 injectors. The stock torque converter was 2400 stall with 215 injectors alone.

Knowing my major use was towing a 11,000 lb fifth wheel, Valley Diesel recommended the medium/intermediate stall torque converter.

After everything was installed, the rig dynoed at 250 HP/550 ft-lb torque at 2400 RPM. The stall speed with the BD intermediate stall torque converter was 2200 rpm (dyno at 2200 RPM was 230 HP/550 torque).

The rig with the 550 ft-lb torque and the intermediate stall TC feels like the same boost lag/kick-in and shifts at the same RPMs as the stock rig with 180 HP/380 ft-lb and stock converter. The shifts are firmer with the BD valve body. The service manual lists 1800-2300 rpm as normal stall speed for the stock configuration.

Valley diesel did not recommend the low stall TC for towing (with 250 HP) as you do not get boost and power to start moving the load unless you get over 1500-1600 rpm. With a TC that holds the engine below 1500 rpm you start out like a turtle blowing black smoke until you build a little speed and RPM. (Piers said it would drive (tow) like a dog. )

I suspect that BD/Valley Diesel would not recommend a low stall TC unless you had 300 HP or greater. Note that all torque converters have stall speeds increase as more power is generated by the engine.

I believe that you need the TC stall speed to be 1800 rpm or above for the specific engine power you are generating. If not, you will be waiting around for the boost to finally build up and generate some go power.

Call BD/Valley Diesel and get their opinion. I also understand they will have another Dyno Day at the end of October.
 
I recently had a Pro-Torque Converter installed in my 96'Dodge along with a BD Valve Body. The torque converter has a stall speed of "1600" and it is a little flat off the line. My engine was dyno'ed at 220 H. P. at the rear wheels with 625 torque.

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs
 
Bolt's Wagon--thanks for the reply. I guess I still have some thinking to do on what I want to set the truck up for and how much power I want to add. I use it for normal driving and I usually don't put my foot into the pedal unless it's necessary.

John_P--sounds like our trucks are similar. It sounds like your stall would probably be about 1700 with the power that I would like to add... I am hoping for 1700-1800. I (like you) also have to accomodate using slightly larger (and heavier) tires... . What shop did you have your T/C installed at?? Where are you in NC?? We are trying to get some "diesel heads" together from NE NC and Tidewater VA if you are interested.

Matt

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'96 Auto, Reg Cab, 4X4, SLT, Line-X, Rancho 9000's, Dunlop Radial Rover 33X12. 5's
 
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