Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) From hard starting....to no starting w/o tapping fuel pedal!

[Got Smoke?]

Ever since shortly after buying my truck I started having to tap the fuel pedal upon startup to get it to crank up right away. It would crank on its own, but it would turnover much longer than other CTD's.



Now for the past two mornings I have HAD to tap the fuel pedal then feather it to get the thing to start



Temp's were in the high 50's / low 60's and the wait to start light went off almost immediately.



So what do you think guys??

 

[HoleshotHolset]

What's your idle set to?



Did you adjust your 3K GSK the 'right' way... . or is it cranked in a little?



Matt

 

[WadePatton]

Have your return lines been replaced? That's the first place I look when a 12v gets more difficult to start. Two cases I'm personal with: Dad's visibly leaked--return lines, Lawrence's 96 had an intermittent solenoid. The solenoid wouldn't go all the way on the first cold key-on. Then it would work the rest of the day. Dixie popped one on for him.

 

[F8LDOSE]

Mine's done the same thing, ever since the 3K kit, if i just touch the throttle lightly, it'll crank like now. If not, it starts like a powerstroke

 

[HoleshotHolset]

You can usually adjust the GSK and the idle to a 'magical' point where the truck will start normally. Every truck is different and some tuning is sometimes necessary to get 'em right.



Matt

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by HoleshotHolset



Did you adjust your 3K GSK the 'right' way... . or is it cranked in a little?

Matt

What's the "right way"? Per instructions? "Cranked in a little" is that good?



I guess I've missed the discussion.



I've installed two of these per TST instrutions, startup seems the same. But then I always give the 12v throttle a teeny little pat to start.

 

[JJW_ND]

GSK is more temp sensative..

Pre GSK my truck would start the second I hit the key down to -20 or so. Then I need to add just alittle throttle. I have always kept my idle at or above 850 (real close to the 1K mark on the factory tach).



Since I added the GSK's I noticed they seem to be more temperature sensative. In that they run lower rpms when first started even at temps around 32. I still do not give it any pedal but notice one rev stumble before it fires and then a lower idle by at least 200 rpms. This week with temps well below zero day and night will be a good time to see what real cold temps do.



I still have my warm RPM set the same but cold is much lower. I also notice this with the high idle I have. When I first start with temps in the single digits truck idles around 700. Turn on high idle maybe bumps it to 800. Once you get a little heat the normal idle is 850 and my high idle is dead on 1250. Takes more pedal to reach the same rpm cold as it does warm. Did not notice that with stock springs.



If your GSK's are doing the same thing, I can see the need for higher idle rpms warm (800+) at least in the winter time.



jjw

ND

 

[HoleshotHolset]

This is how I adjust them and have had good luck so far... . it sounds weird, but it works.



When you are tightening down the retainer nut you will feel a series of VERY small clicks and then it will start to get the good solid clicks. After the small clicks stop... . you basically want two good solid clicks and that should be it. Back it off and retry it a few times if necessary.



I've had my 3K GSK adjusted all over the place... . and I always end up putting it right back at the setting I described above.



Matt

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by HoleshotHolset

This is how I adjust them and have had good luck so far... . it sounds weird, but it works.



When you are tightening down the retainer nut you will feel a series of VERY small clicks and then it will start to get the good solid clicks. After the small clicks stop... . you basically want two good solid clicks and that should be it. Back it off and retry it a few times if necessary.



I've had my 3K GSK adjusted all over the place... . and I always end up putting it right back at the setting I described above.



Matt

A friend of mine mentioned that I should back my springs off one click because you can't hold a steady idle on my truck between 1K & 2K RPM's. They are currently at 3 clicks each because that's where the factories were at and Al at PDR said to set them back to where the factories were.



My buddy said that Piers told him to loosen his one click when he installed his 4K springs and couldn't hold a steady idle.



I'm thinking its a possibility of the fuel return line that Wade mentioned seeing as the truck has 187K miles on it.



Also idle is only at like 700RPM or so when the motor is warm when I originally installed the 3K GSK I KNOW it was up more around 900 because I liked the higher idle.



Right now when it gets cold around here if I don't plug my truck in the idle stays around 500RPM when cold or even just below 500 if REALLY cold. HELP! :{

 

[Kalaehina]

Hey Mark, my truck starts right up the first time in the morning or when she's been sitting for a while, then if you try to start her up again she stumbles once or twice so now I give a little throttle to get it going. This just started maybe 6 months ago, I miss the instant fire ups but am content with this system of getting going. I would deffinately do the return line fix if you've never done it before, you'll be very surprised how cracked and brittle the line could be right now. I did mine 2 years ago and am planning to replace both the lines with the marine grade lines and maybe do Joe D. s mod (replacing some of the steel lines with rubber). I also went through a shut off solenoid relay, made for some REALLY hard starts for a few weeks. As always, good luck!

 

[JJW_ND]

Just another observation....

Auto trucks seem to have their GSK (factory) set looser the Manual trucks.



I count turns and then clicks (4 clicks per full turn). My 5sp was 2 full turns once it made contact (clicks). I did one auto myself and watched with others and they were only one full turn after making contact... . VERY LOOSE!



jjw

ND

 

[Got Smoke?]

Well gentlemen I believe Wade hit the nail on the head with the return line comment. Past couple of days I've noticed a distinct smell of fuel around the drivers fender/front of door whenever the trucks been run for a little while and shutoff. Starting is also getting worse with colder weather. Had a 1-day trip to Chicago yesterday. . truck sat in low 20*-teen's weather and almost DIDN'T start when we got back tonight, and its NOT my batteries. Its too cold for me to do this outside (truck won't clear basement door with stacks! :{ ) so someones gonna earn some $$ for this one. Making some calls tomorrow.