2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle Bearing Problem...

[AlSmith]

My son's 1997 Dodge 1500 4X4 may have a bad front axle bearing and when I called for the parts they said the bearings are built into the hub and the whole thing must be replaced. I have never replaced this type bearing. My Dodge 2500 B6 has standard bearings which are pretty cheap and easy to replace. This setup cost $120+ each. Can anyone give me some pointers before I jump in. I am a little worried about the axle seals. Will this be very difficult or just another straightforward job? Thanks!



PS I know the 1500 isn't a diesel, but, it is a Dodge!

 

[Dave M]

My 97 4x4 3500 has unitized hubs with bearings sealed in. They run around $400. It can be a real pain because the rotor and hub come off as an assembly (using the wheel studs to hold them together). Then beat out (or press out) the wheel studs to seperate the rotor from the hub. The 4 12 pt hub bolts that hold the hub to knuckle (from behind the knuckle) can be a pain. I had more trouble with getting the 1 11/16 inch (hard to find 12 pt socket) hub axle nut off.



If you are in the rust belt the hubs can really be hard to break free from the knuckle due to the interference type fit.



Do a search and you will find lots of reading.

 

[AlSmith]

Reply

Thanks Dave for the info. I guess I should not be complaining about the $120+ cost with yours being $400. I do not understand the reason for the unitized hub and bearings. It must be easier for the assembly line. Did you have to remove your axle shaft? You would think with the bearings and seal going over the axle shaft, you would have to remove the axle shaft. Thanks!

 

[Dave M]

Thanks Dave for the info. I guess I should not be complaining about the $120+ cost with yours being $400. I do not understand the reason for the unitized hub and bearings. It must be easier for the assembly line. Did you have to remove your axle shaft? You would think with the bearings and seal going over the axle shaft, you would have to remove the axle shaft. Thanks!

The outer axle shaft comes out. Mine fell out as I pulled the hub since the axle shaft goes through the hub and is held on with the BIG 1 11/16 inch nut. I did not replace my hubs but was replacing my rotors so everything had to come off. I checked pricing on hubs but they were too much to just replace.



As I understand, on the newer years (I think after 2001) the rotors were not removed to get the hubs off but I think all use the unitized hubs. Some have seperated the hubs and added zerk fittings to grease them and replaced the internal bearings with success.



This hub job can be a nightmare if the hub is stuck in the knuckle. I removed my hubs/rotor assembly by pounding my hub rotor assembly hitting the warped rotors with a hammer since I was replacing them anyhow but there are horror stories on getting the hubs off. Overall its an easy job if the parts come out.



The inner side of the axles have the seals in the differential so be carefull the axles don't slip down in the axles housings or slip out of the seal completely which may cause the old seals rubber lip to deform and they will leak... . don't ask me how I know. Try to have a helper hold the axles up centered in the axle housings to prevent the axles coming out in your lap... . again don't ask me how I know this... . causing your axles to leak. Then the differentaial gear has to be pulled to replace the seals from inside the diff if they continue to leak.



I posted on here my experience pulling the hubs if you search on my user name. I had some pics of the procedure and details on sockets sizes and torques.

 

[Dave M]

Here is the link to my post on the hub removal:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ssions/202682-brake-job-my-99-any-advice.html



My post is post #5. Follow the links there for helpfull info.

 

[AlSmith]

Thanks!

Thank you for your help and I'll let you know how it goes. Hope the hub will break free without the hammer, I do not want to replace the rotor.



Thanks!

 

[kenny61]

If you gotta do ball joints you can take the ball joint nuts off let the spindle drop and then cutthe balljoints with a torch then use a press to push out the hubs,been there done that. whatever you do coat the hub and spindle with a lot of antisieze before putting it back together.

 

[AlSmith]

Good idea to check the ball joints. Thanks!

 

[Dave M]

Apply PB blaster or penetrating oil to axle nut and threads and 4 hub bolts. I had more trouble with the axle nut. I had to heat the nut with a MAPP gas torch and use an impact wrench while hot to finally break it feel. Its not alot of heat but was enought to get it done. I broke a few tools jumping up and down on a 6 foot pipe on my breaker bar before trying this. Some have stripped the threads on the axle getting a screwed up nut off or galled the threads on axle getting this nut off and required a new axle.



Be carefull with the nut and don't let the axles fall down or come out of the housing... . easier said then done. . I know. Post if you need any help during the removal. There are lots of tricks that can be used to get it apart.



Check for ball joint play by prying up on the wheel (when jacked up) with a long bar or pipe under the wheel to check for play in them. Mine were good.



Good luck.

 

[kenny61]

Antiseize everything when you put it back together. I had mine apart a few times with no problems then the last time i had to cut the ball joints and use a press to pop out the hubs. I learned my lesson