2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission front axle ?s

[ndurbin]

front axle teardown help needed

I am getting ready to replace the ring and pinion gears on the front axle and was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks I should use while tearing the axle down. Hopefully it shouldn't go to bad since it had a fresh rebuild alil over a year ago (new axle shafts, bearings, etc. ).



And also any uprgrades I should look at adding while it's a part. I was thinking of maybe throwing a locker in but can I run a locker in the front w/o one in the back? I'd hate to have to tear it down again to put a locker in later down the road.



I also seem to always have 4WD problems when I get the truck back from having a transmission installed which is nothing new this time, does anyone have a diagram for the vaccum lines and such?



The ring and pinion got trashed from the pinion shaft nut holding on the yoke came loose and vibrated off. That allowed the whole yoke to pull outta of the axle and let the ring and pinion gears get jammed together.



TIA

Nathan

 

[JGheen]

I don't have any tear down tips, but I would definately look into a locker of some sort if your a regular off-roader like me. I don't have a locker myself, yet, but soon, just savin' up the money. You can run a locker in the front without having one in the back. It's better to have one in the back as well, but it all depends on how much money you want to spend, they are expensive. I personally would just get one for the front for starters as positive traction in the front axle very important for off-roading and not getting stuck.

As for the 4x4 problems, the only diagram you need is the instructions for the 4x4 Posi-Lok kit which will get rid of that vacuum actuated CAD and make it fully mechanical. I have had mine for over 6 months now and have been wondering why I didn't get it sooner as I had got stuck out on the trail a couple of times without any 4x4 due to a leaking vacuum line. Now I just shift the t-case, engage the CAD with the pull cable and have a great time wheelin' without the worry of loosing 4x4 and having to search for a vacuum leak half the wheelin' day.

Why did you pinion nut come loose? Did you install a larger yoke on the front axle? I actually just put on a 1410 yoke that I got with my new front driveline and used a new nut as I heard using the old stock nut is a major contributor to them backing off torque.



Joe

 

[ndurbin]

I'm not really a regular off-roader but when I need 4WD it's usually not just to run to the grocery store. I've been thinking about switching over to a manual set-up for awhile so it maybe time for that.



I'm not sure why the nut came loose really. Could have been when the axle was rebuilt last year the mechanic that did it didn't get the torque right or something. Just really ticks me off I take it in to have the transmission swapped and it comes back with more problems than it when in with.



Nathan

 

[ndurbin]

After looking at the price for lockers, I think I might hold off until I really need one. But I am definately swtiching to a manual engaging setup for the front axle and getting ride of the vaccum controls. Atleast then I will not haveto wonder if it's engaged or not.



Nathan

 

[ndurbin]

I've been reading thru the Chilton manual I have and it shows the use of a couple special tools. One for removing the hub, yoke seal driver, yoke installer, and yoke holding tool. Are there any tools I can use inplace of any of these or do I just need to go buy them from NAPA, Snap-On, or whoever?



TIA

Nathan

 

[GMincher]

IMHO I wouldn't go the locker route on the front... unless... it's an ARB airlocker. I had a 3/4 ton K5 Blazer (Yeah 3/4) with a locker in the front. It was great for serious mud bogging, but what a monster to turn!! It would go anywere it wanted not were I wanted! And in the snow on road... . well lets just say I took it out. See ya, Greg