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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) front axle seal replace?

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in the process of pulling my front hub (96' 3500 4X4), passenger side, i pulled the axle shaft out about 8 inches or so and when i put it back in, carefully, perhaps not carefully enough, i noticed oil leaking. Is it possible that i didn't damage the seal and the oil leaked out as a result of pulling the axle shaft out that far? I have the whole hub assembly off and wonder if i should just be safer than sorry and do all the axle seals. I don't necessarily mind the expense, but the labor seems daunting. Also, i got the driver side axle shaft all the way out, how do i install it while supporting it so i don't damage the seal? (a real long and narrow shim perhaps?, how thin?) Any help would be appreciated...

feral
 
I had this happen on my '98. One of the axle u-joints was bad at 22,000 miles so it was under warranty. When the dealer pulled the axle, fluid was able to leak into the axle tube and they didn't bother to clean it out.



After I noticed the large puddle of gear lube on my garage floor I took it back in the next day. It was still leaking a little bit when I got it back to the dealer. They replaced the seal to be safe but I don't think it was really a problem, and since you were careful it should be ok. If I'm not mistaken, those seals have to be put in from the inside, which is a lot of extra work...
 
I also had my passenger side leak as you describe when I pulled hub to do disc brakes change. My truck is also 1996 3500 4X4. I posted on hear and got responses that said it was normal as long as it didnt continue to leak. Mine didnt keep leaking so I just filled up the differential which wasnt even that low with the proper fluid.



If your axel seal was bad, I would take a look at www.quad4x4.com. They have complete kits to do the job with instructions. I have never bought anything from them but many people have recommended them it seems.
 
Could be your hub bearing/wheel bearing. Others may be able to help more. Are you still leaking diff. fluid? What does the sound sound like?
 
If you don't raise the axle on the side you pulled the axle on, the fluid will run into the axle tube causing a leak. I always jack up the side I am working on pretty high to keep the gear lube from getting into the axle. The leak normally will last from a couple of hundred miles to over 1K depending on the amount if gear lube leaked into the axle. The passenger side isn't too bad of a job to replace, the driver's side requires the differential to be pulled to replace.



HCanales: What does the noise sound like: grinding, clicking, clunk? Do you always hear the noise or only when turning in a specific direction?
 
The noise is a loud squeal that starts at 20mph and quits at 45mph. I'll tell you guys what I did and maybe you can come up with an assessment. I changed my pads and put new rotors and in the process the axle shafts came out with the hubs. I inspected the hubs and they appear solid. This has been 150 miles ago and the leaking appears to have stoped but the noise seems to come and go. I also put a new hub on the right side but not the left side but again it seems solid. I wonder if maybe it could be the new rotors and pads breaking in?

Thanks HCanales!
 
Can you tell which side the noise is coming from? Also, does the pitch of the squeal change if you apply the brakes in the speed range that you hear it? What year is your truck, is it a second gen where the rotor mounts on the back side of the hub and the wheel studs press in from behind? If so, how did you install the wheel studs? When I did mine, I used a brass bar and a 2 pound sledge to install the wheel studs. The bearing actually walked off of the hub slightly from the pounding and I had to press it back on. Are you getting any vibration since you did the hubs?
 
The driver side axle is not bat to put in. I had mine out when I replaced the ball joints.

My main concern was making sure the housing was clean before shoving the axle in.

I put a tennis ball on the end of a piece of threaded rod so I could hold it against the seal then used a pump up sprayer to flood the axle housing with diesel fuel to wash it out.

With that done, grease the end of the axle and splines real well so it will slip through the seal without cutting it. That is one seal you really don't want to have to replace.
 
Thanks guy for your replies sorry I haven't got back with you because of turkey day but the noise stoped and so did the leaking from DE to WI. I don't know what it was but It quit.

Thanks HCanales.
 
Do any of you have any step by step procedures written anywhere that explains how to replace rotors on a 4x4 2500? I had them at one time, but my last computer went bad and i lost it then. I know, back things up. I thought I had backed it up, but didn't. Thanks in advance.
 
Hello Dave, the front rotors on your 2500 are fairly simple to replace, however

the key is a Hub Removing Tool. The way you do this is remove the tires and

calipers first. Then remove the four twelve-point bolts on the back side of the

knuckle (them bolts hold the hub on the knukle). Next, take the large nut in the center of the hub out, that is for your axle and I use a 1 3/4 socket for that. Now using a OTC part# 6290 tool that I mentioned the hub pulls right

out. Warning: if you do not remove the four bolt on the back side of the knuckle you will damage the bearings while using the puller! Now you're on victory lane, pop the studs out swap rotors. Total time should take 25 minutes including tire removal.



Dave, I hope this was of help to you remember the hub tool made by OTC part# 6290 that tool has many uses on many vehicles.

later HCanales
 
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