Archived Front axle u-joint help please...

[Bugman]

Having spent the last 3 days tracking down a 1 11/16" socket and buying an air impact, I am thinking it may have been a waste of time.



The problem is removing the hub from the knuckle. When I beat on the 9/16 12 point bolts the shaft starts coming out too... ... can I just remove the 4 bolts and leave it on the axle for now??



I realise it will be heavier and have an increased risk of damaging the seal. What other reasons may there be for not doing it this way and will I still be able to replace the u-joint with the hub still attached?



It's getting dark too



Bugman.

 

[Jff24Gordn]

If you got the 1 11/16" nut off, then just wack the axle shaft where the threads are to break it loose from the hub so you can pull them seperatly. The shaft is splined and stuck into the hub and the nut holds the shaft against the hub. If you didnt get the nut off, you are out of luck and will hafta pull the whole assembly as one piece. If you still need the socket, sears craftsman has them for 16. 99.

 

[Bugman]

Thanks, yes the 1 11/16" nut is off. I'll try beating on the shaft.



Bugman.

 

[Bugman]

Duh! just a few light taps and hub came off spline, thanks for the help. I jsut wasn't too sure how it was together.



BTW I had bought a spare axle nut from the stealer, can you believe $18 !!!!!!!!! Think I'll take it back. The $29. 99 (Lowes) for the impact was the best money spent.



Now if I could ever get the brakes to stop eating just the inside part of the disk I'll be OK.



Bugman.

 

[richardleonard]

Brakes

"Now if I could ever get the brakes to stop eating just the inside part of the disk I'll be OK. "





I don't know if this will help or not,, but on a Dakota I had before my CTD,, I was eating front rotors every 12k miles - warping from heat I guess. I took it back several times to the stealer - who did replace the rotors 3 times I believe,, finally I purchased rabestos rotors and pads,, I did notice when I took the calapers off that the slider pins were DRY!!!!,, checking the service manual - the reccommendation was they be lubed. . Well I did lube them and all of my "brake problems" seemed to disappear. . I would guess that the calapers were not sliding freely, binding or hanging on this pins,, causing the pads to contact the rotor with lots more pressure than if the calapers freely moved on those pins... FYI for what its worth - my $. 02

 

[bighammer]

I have to admit, the first time I looked at the caliper pins, I thought the lube needed to be beween the bolt and the bushing. (tube thingy) Where it really needs the lube is on the outside, but the rubber seals like to wipe it off as you slide it in. I use a small dia dowel to try to grease the area inside the caliper holes. Hope it helps.

 

[illflem]

You can lube the pins without even removing the wheel or jacking the truck. Just remove one pin at a time and lube. I use Sil-Glide brake lube about every 10k.