2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front axle universal joints

[Gordon Maney]

I will be replacing all ball joints on my 2001 2500 with 60,000 miles. If the front axle shaft u-joints are at all questionable I will replace them.



Of those of you who have replaced those joints, how many have used the greasable ones, and have you been happy with that decision?

 

[tom sweeney]

w0w... at 60k miles???... i have 145k on my '01,and haven't replaced any front end components except for a lukes link setup... ... good luck..... tom

 

[Joe G.]

I have 233K miles on my '95. All the front end stuff is original except for one axle U-joint. It still steers very well. No wander or other symptoms of loose stuff. 60K is no miles on it at all if it is taken care of properly.

 

[Gordon Maney]

I have 233K miles on my '95. All the front end stuff is original except for one axle U-joint. It still steers very well. No wander or other symptoms of loose stuff. 60K is no miles on it at all if it is taken care of properly.

I agree with you, and it was taken care of properly. You will read of quite a few trucks on these forums that had ball joint failure at very low miles.

 

[Joe G.]

There are also a lot of trucks on these forums who had not have ball joint failures. I believe that they are the majority by far. I don't personally know anyone with one of these trucks who have had ball joint problems. That includes a few loggers who don't even try to take care of their trucks.

 

[mike r]

I've replace all of mine with greasable ones because that's all that NAPA sells. I just wish they sold a greasable axle bearing. Had one axle bearing and two ball joints go bad at 65,000. The new bearing was about 20% heavier that stock though. I would replace both ball joints because your gonna beat the snot out of it taking it apart. The U-joints I would replace also because if one goes bad afterward you'll be disassembling the bearing unit again. I did clean the steering knuckle/bearing support and put anti seize all over it and the new bearing at the mounting surfaces to reduce corrosion. I was surprised how much rust buildup between the bearing and mount there was. This is also going to be an issue with the ball joints. You've got your work cutout for you.

 

[Gordon Maney]

There are also a lot of trucks on these forums who had not have ball joint failures. I believe that they are the majority by far. I don't personally know anyone with one of these trucks who have had ball joint problems. That includes a few loggers who don't even try to take care of their trucks.

This truck has been well maintained, regularly greased, and is used, really, as a car, mostly highway miles. The easiest duty you could find.



I suspect you might learn something by actually inspecting some of those logger trucks, too... .

 

[pwerwagn]

Personally, I dont like the greaseable u-joints in the front end. I prefer the sealed type. Also, I never ever ever buy any u-joints other than spicer, except maybe OX or CTM. But those are real pricey. I have even had bad luck with napa u-joints in the front end of my 74. Only spicers seem to hold up well. If it were me, I would replace the u-joints in the shafts. But only with spicer parts.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Personally, I dont like the greaseable u-joints in the front end. I prefer the sealed type. Also, I never ever ever buy any u-joints other than spicer, except maybe OX or CTM. But those are real pricey. I have even had bad luck with napa u-joints in the front end of my 74. Only spicers seem to hold up well. If it were me, I would replace the u-joints in the shafts. But only with spicer parts.

I am not familiar with OX or CTM. Who are they, or where do they come from?



I am curious as to your thinking on the sealed vs greasable. Have you tried the greasable and had trouble with them?

 

[CNichols]

I just replaced my pass. side lower ball joint. and both steering knuckle ujoints. 160k



One thing to look out for if you get the greaseable ones is that you screw the zert fittings in as far as they will possibly go. On sharp turns the yokes get close enough to the joint to bind up and smash the fittings of they are not. Thats why mine went out. Both of the fittins were smashed and the joints could not be serviced.

 

[btanner]

ox and ctm are billet u-joints with brass bushings instead of needle bearings completely useless in your application. These are offroad joints used in extreme situations. If you were constantly breaking u joints due to abuse I would recomend ctms (not oxs way too many failures) but as they are currently about 2-3 times the cost of a regular u joint they don't make sense for people not currently breaking 2-3 ujionts a year.



-ben