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Front axle Universal Joints

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Thanks to yall's help, I changed my universal joints out on both ends of the axle today. It went very smooth. I usually buy my parts from the dealer, as I am a firm believer in original equipment parts. (I use MOPAR oil and fuel filters, brake shoes, belt, wipers, etc) But, I got my universal joints at NAPA for the simple reason that they are greasable. I believe in servicing my equipment. I miss the servicability of the first generation trucks, but mine is slowly getting to be just as servicable. It just sucks that the factory does not give us the chioce. The original universals failed simply because they ran out of grease. They have a place casted in the body for a grease fitting and are even hallow, but are not greasable. Thankfully, NAPA's are and are made in USA. Anyway, the job went very well. The rotors were easy to get off because every time I rotate my tires, I oil the lug studs and put a little on the spindle nut in the center of the rotor. It paid off! Thanks again for yall's help! #ad


One more tip for anyone who will be tackling this job soon: Jack the truck up high enough on the side you are working on, after removing the tire, but before pulling the axle, so that the gear lube will stay in the differential. Dirt,etc. builds up in the axle tubes and would be quite harmful if it gets mixed in with the gear lube. Just my $. 02, hoping it helps someone out the way the TDR crew helped me. Yall are a good bunch of folks!

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1996 White, Extra-cab, 4X4, 5-speed, 4. 10 Model 80 rear, Laramie Pkg, Rickson 19. 5's w/ with Michelin 265/70 XZT's, 4" turbo-back full-straight pipe exhaust with through the bed stack, Mopar brush guard, "Psychotty Air", no silencer ring, Banks Boost & Pyro Guages 'tweaked' injector pump, 130,000+ miles
Rollin'-S 25-foot, 10 ton flatbed g/n trailer, with Vac/hyd brakes, 16. 5" tandem duals
'92 D350 Cummins, auto/OD, 3. 54, enclosed service body, 45,000 miles. unBOMBed as of now.

[This message has been edited by DieselNut6BT59 (edited 11-03-2000). ]
 
Diesel,since you have some old stock U-joints to look at,what are the possibilities of drilling and tapping in some zerks?I've done this many times with ball joints,never with U-joints,but if everything's there why not?
 
Just bought a 97 4x4. The previous owner put in the NAPA parts at about 70,000miles. The parts are apparently cheap, so no real reason to go to all the work of drilling and tapping.
 
BCFAST,I've heard they aren't that cheap and I think by turning your wheels full to one direction you may be able to drill and tap without removing the joint. That is if the stock unit does indeed have grease channels in the cross.
 
Changed mine at about 107,000,one was making the grinding sound. Got them at Auto Zone around 50 for both they have grease fittings and are U. S. made. Would of shopped around if they were not made here got the lifetime warranty too. Be careful pulling the axles you don`t mess up the axle seals they are pain to change I here. Took off the vacuum shift motor it takes 5 oz. of GL-5 I don't think it states that in Dodge service manual,got that out of the Haynes one. Just a couple cent's worth.

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plater

97 2500HD 4X4 CC SLT ,3. 54,5 spd,B. F. GOODRICH 295/75R/16 A/T,K&N AIR FILTER, PUSH GUARD,RANCHO 9000s,EGT&BOOST GAUGES,TST#11,OPTIMA RED TOP BATTERIES,OVER 100,000 MILES


97 BRAVADA
 
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