2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front Axle/What else at the same time?

[Roger Dodger]

I have been a member for several years now, but have don every little with my truck. I finally sold my Suburban, and now I have to get off my duff and make my truck a suitable tow vehicle before I retire from the military (3 years left). My Travel Trailer now sits in the storage unit until I get the truck ready.



I noticed the other day that my front driver axle seal is leaking. I found an excellent online article about replacing the seals (Front Axle Tech). I will use this as a guide.



While I am in there, what else should i replace? the ride has 210K on the clock. My rig needs to be reliable as possible. possible candidates I was thinking of: Ball joints, front axle u joints (i have a press), differential cover (with the Hag Hytec cover)



I currently have a Don Thruen track bar on the truck. I have had the track bar contact the front differential cover on hard bumps. I do not want to install the Mag Hytec cover until I have that fixed. I think somewhere I read that the front springs get weak over the years, that I need to use some kind of spacers on the coil springs to restore the ride height. If this is true, what do you recommend? I am not a fan of jacking this ride much higher than it already is from the factory.



If the recommended action is to install spacers, then I'll go ahead and replace the front shocks. I'm pretty sure the shocks are original also.



I need recommendations on what to do, and what parts to use. I only want to use better to best quality parts. I don't want to work on this any time soon.



Thanks!!

 

[Cummins12V98]

Mag Hytech is a great option for the rear axle but I would not waste the money on the front. Use a high quality synthetic lube like Amz/Oil severe gear. Replace factory shocks. Check for worn parts before replacing anything, I went 300K before my 98 had a upper ball joint start to go out. Rock Auto is a good place to get original parts from.

 

[mpaulson]

I would agree on the front diff cover.

Maybe spend the money on a free spin hub kit and your front drivline won't be worn out when you need it and you'll never have the oem unit hub failure, especially if your hubs are original. Is your truck an auto? If so, a shift kit possibly while getting it seviced would help it out on durability.

 

[Roger Dodger]

The Hubs are original. How does replacing with a hub kit prevent the OE hubs from failing? Are they prone to failure?



I am installing a new trans in a few weeks. My engine mod questions are on a post under Here.





After hearing you guys recommend not putting the Mag Hytec front cover on, i understand: it does not get used that much, and will not get that hot when i turn it on for the snow, etc.



Are the factory front U joints a good buy? Is there some other brand i should go with? How about the ball joints, same question?

 

[RDeFayette]

Replacing the unitized bearing assembly with a dyna trac hub does a number of things:

1) gets rid of the un-serviceable unitized bearing assembly with serviceable bearings, 2) automatically you will put new u-joints in as you have to replace the stub axle: 3) comes with selectable hubs so when you are NOT in 4 wheel drive the ENTIRE front axle is disengeged. (no more wear from spinnin' round and round doing nothing=No parasistic loss/drag): 4) don't be surprised when your fuel mileage increase 1-2 mpg:5) with the hubs installed you don't have to worry about how much gear oil you have in the front as the front axle is now engaged ONLY when you get out (downside/old school) and lock the hubs, hell you could almost run the housing dry!!! (Not really).

Prone to failure!!! Yes and when they do fail it's probably gonna be quick with NO notice. So you will then be riding the shoe leather express. lol

U-joints and ball joints, I get my u-joints from NAPA high quality and greasable, ball joints haven't had to replace yet but I'd probably go to NAPA for those also.

just my 2 cents worth.

have a good one.

Bob

 

[Cummins12V98]

I used to think greasable were the way to go. My 98 12v has 350k on the original Dana Spicer u joints my 86 C20 pickup has 330k both non greasable. I will buy Dana Spicer non greasable based on that track record! My transmission is a built DTT and goes into gear hard. I have 300rwh and 750 tq on the dyno and I tow a lot.

 

[Roger Dodger]

Replacing the unitized bearing assembly with a dyna trac hub does a number of things:

1) gets rid of the un-serviceable unitized bearing assembly with serviceable bearings, 2) automatically you will put new u-joints in as you have to replace the stub axle: 3) comes with selectable hubs so when you are NOT in 4 wheel drive the ENTIRE front axle is disengeged. (no more wear from spinnin' round and round doing nothing=No parasistic loss/drag): 4) don't be surprised when your fuel mileage increase 1-2 mpg:5) with the hubs installed you don't have to worry about how much gear oil you have in the front as the front axle is now engaged ONLY when you get out (downside/old school) and lock the hubs, hell you could almost run the housing dry!!! (Not really).

Prone to failure!!! Yes and when they do fail it's probably gonna be quick with NO notice. So you will then be riding the shoe leather express. lol

U-joints and ball joints, I get my u-joints from NAPA high quality and greasable, ball joints haven't had to replace yet but I'd probably go to NAPA for those also.

just my 2 cents worth.

have a good one.

Bob

I have thought of this item. Quite expensive, but I am sure it would be worth it if the vehicle is a long term keeper (a 98 12 valve, yes it is!).



Is Dynatrac the only seller of that item? Where is the best price you seen?

 

[mpaulson]

There's Dynatrac, most expensive, there's Spyn tech, about $1700, and there's EMS, about $1495. These are dually prices that I know because I just bought one a few weeks ago, the single wheel kits are cheaper but I'm not sure how much. With one of these kits like others mentioned, you can gain 1-2 mpg, you will notice the feel of the steering is easier, no vibrations in the wheel, and if you ain't spinnin the front end, it won't wear out. If you live in snow country like me, I plan to just lock them once winter sets in, then I can just switch in and out of 4x4 like a stock truck.

 

[WilsonF]

You can also change the front end to "Free spin" with wrecking yard parts, I did mine for around $400- $500 that's with new bearing and ujoints and all new seals. Do some looking around the internet, some good posts on what parts to use from what years, mostly Ford Dana 50-60 stuff.

Floyd

 

[Roger Dodger]

There's Dynatrac, most expensive, there's Spyn tech, about $1700, and there's EMS, about $1495. These are dually prices that I know because I just bought one a few weeks ago, the single wheel kits are cheaper but I'm not sure how much. With one of these kits like others mentioned, you can gain 1-2 mpg, you will notice the feel of the steering is easier, no vibrations in the wheel, and if you ain't spinnin the front end, it won't wear out. If you live in snow country like me, I plan to just lock them once winter sets in, then I can just switch in and out of 4x4 like a stock truck.

What made you go to the EMS besides the cost?

 

[mpaulson]

It was in stock and I wouldn't have to wait for it. With the Spyn tec and Ems kits, the dually spacer is built into the hub, and you don't have to mess with spacers. I believe the Dyna trac one, you have to get an additional spacer. My only complaint is the dust shield that goes on the shaft, it didn't fit right and I still have to deal with it. It's loose and not seated on properly.