Archived Front Bearings

[David Pendleton]

I brought my truck in for new tires yesterday.



During the install, the tech noticed that my ball joints were shot (81K). I didn't really want the tire place doing that work (Tires Plus), but the dealer was closed and the truck is down.



I reluctantly gave the okay, after they told me they'd be using Moog replacements.



I got a call a while later and they tell me they can't get the bearings off.



One option I was given was for them to "break" them to get them off, then replace them. They told me the bearings were about $500. 00 per side (parts--not labor).



Can someone offer a bit of advice here? I can't afford $3K for repairs right now. Is this a common occurence (stuck bearings)? Is there a "trick" to getting them off?



Thanks all.

 

[PFeick]

do you mean ball joints or bearings

 

[delliott]

It is not uncommon to have the front hub/bearing assemblies seize in place. I had to cut my ball joints and take the whole steering knuckle to a machine shop to have the bearings pressed out.



They should be able to do the same and save the bearings in the process.



As far as the cost, you can get the bearings online for around $250 a side, but that's probably not an option for you at this point. Also, they have to pull the hub out to replace the ball joints, so they shouldn't be trying to double dip you with any additional labor charges if they do have to replace them.



Good luck with the repair.



David



PS Make sure they use liberal amounts on anti-seize on the hubs when they put them back in. It makes them slide right out if you ever have to pull them again (for front-axle u-joints, or ball joints again in another 80k miles).

 

[delliott]

another trick...

I forgot there is another trick for getting the bearings out. You can wedge a 1/2" drive extension between the back of the hub and axle stub yoke and use the power steering to turn the wheel and "press" the bearing out.



It didn't work for me, but mine were worse than most after ~150k miles. If you do a search on here, you should be able to find some people that were able to get that trick to work.



David

 

[Slow Six]

The bearings do not have to be removed. There are 4 bolts that hold the hub assembly in. Loosen the bolts, get a socket and an extension between the bolts and the axle tube, start the truck and use the power steering to loosen the hub assembly and than take the hub assembly and axle out in one piece. This is quick and easy with no damage to the bearings. There are several threads about this method as this is where I found out about it. Do a search. Also if it is not to late I highly recommend putting in the Carli joints. Yes they are pricey but they are one of the best upgrades I have done. I am assuming you have a 3rd. generation.

 

[David Pendleton]

Thanks all. Just got the call. The original bearings did not survive the surgery.



They were able to get everything fixed.



Final cost for tires, ball joints, and bearings: nearly 4K.

 

[kenny61]

Ouch, You better get some prepartion H cause thats where they got ya. The second gen hubs are only about 250 each even at a high price they yoked you for about a grand. I had a place do my ball joints and alignment for 700. I only had em do it cause it was in for an alignment and for the 150 in labor I wasnt me driving the truck across county 2 times and doing it myself. I'm not trying to pick on you just letting you know I would never go back to that place again

 

[David Pendleton]

This is a 3G. I already know they screwed me on parts.



Okay, so upper and lower ball joints on both sides and two new hubs. Apparently they had a lot of trouble getting the hubs off.



What would labor at a dealer be?

 

[kenny61]

Lasat time I walked into the parts dept. I think the sign said 89 or 99 per hour pretty sure it was 99

 

[SierraRam]

Wow that hurt. You could have put the Dynatrac free spin kit plus new ball joints for that and never hve to worry about the unit bearings again.

 

[Huff N Puff]

It is common for the bearing flange to sieze

Do not try pressing them out using the power steering you could damadge the steering gear. The way I get em out is use a tool I fashioned out of a peice of 1/2 in extension welded onto an air chisel bit. I backout the 4 bolts on the wheelbearing about 1/2 in then use an 11mm socket on the airchisel adapter and walk the bearing out with an air chisel. By the way 500. 00 is normal list price if you want them to warrany the whole job. I'm sure you can find them cheaper though.

 

[David Pendleton]

I ended up with new ball joints (Moog) and new hubs (Standard, I believe). I was "overcharged" about $450. 00 on parts based on what I could have bought them for myself.



Self-installation wasn't an option in my case. I'm only one person with limited know-how and an unheated garage during what was a nasty stretch of double digit sub-zero temperatures.



I went to the shop and plead my case and they were surprisingly amenable. I told them I realized there would be some markup on parts, but surely not that much.



Huff N Puff is exactly right, it was explained to me that all the work, parts, etc was warranteed and that was the reason for the markup (there would have been no warranty if I had brought my own parts).



I agreed that this was a valid reason for a markup, but still wasn't sure the amount was fair. They agreed and refunded $300. 00 of my money. Final cost was closer to 3K now (I was a little overzealous in my previous claim of 4K) and 1. 2K of that was tires.



I'm okay with that.



The tires run great; steering and handling is much improved and I'm running again.



Thanks for the help and advice, all.



Dave