Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Front brake job on 01 2500 4x4 questions

[JCyrbok]

I have a 01 2500 4x4 that is goign to be getting new front pads and rotors as soon as they come in. I have a couple of quick questions that I was not able to find the answers to with a search here or in my shop manual. Due to my screwy work schedule and my need for my truck to get to and from, I will likely either be doing this job at night after work or on a Sunday (either time is when most auto stores are closed!) So I would like to know what to get in advance. This is my first brake job on this truck but definately not first brake job I have ever done.



1) What size/type, wrench/socket am I going to need to remove the calipers so I can R&R the pads and rotors? I have heard a couple of different things.



2) Is there anything I need to remove to get the rotors off or will they just slide off once the calipers are out of the way, like other brake jobs I have done before.



3) Do the wheel studs attach to the rotors or are they the slide through type that are actually on the hub?



I dont have any other problems, but is there anything else that I should check or replace while the wheels/rotors/calipers are off?



Truck has 71,500miles btw, first brake job on it and it is more preventive than anything.



Thanks in advance,

J-

 

[DCreed]

pull a front wheel off and see if the rotor is inboard or outboard if its inside the hub flange then call a shop and drop it off. otherwise its straight forward.

 

[KFranco]

On my 2002 4x4 the rotors just slide off. I just needed some penetrating oil and few quick hammer taps to break it free from the hub/bearing assembly. Not sure if the 2001. 5 is the same. If the rotor is inside the hub/bearing flange then you need to remove the hub/bearing assembly without separating the bearing if you aren't replacing it. I think DCreed was tryinig to point this out. It can be done but is tricky.

 

[Larry Willard]

I have an early '01, and mine the rotors just slid off after removing the caliper. As to the size of wrench I just went to the tool box dug out what I needed. Sorry I can't be of any more assistance, why not pull a wheel ahead of time and see what is needed, if you don't have it you can pick it up before starting.



Larry

 

[JCyrbok]

Thanks for the info guys. I did alittle more diggin' last night and it looks like a Torx T45 for the calipers and 16mm 12pt socket for the Caliper Adaptor brackets to get the rotors off.



Thanks again for the help/info.



Anything else I should look at while everything is apart??



J-



PS I ordered the Hawk Pads from Geno's and Powerslot rotors. Looks like it will be a good combo.

 

[DCreed]

hoses , lines, axle seals, hub bearings, ball joints, tie rods, usual stuff. also check the rear line where the hard line joins the flex line behind the tank over the rear axle. these tend to rust out. Happy wrenchin'!

 

[Thomas]

The change to outboard-of-the-hub mounted brake rotors occurred model year 2000: http://dodgeram.org/tech/new00/new_for_00.htm. The front brakes are the same on the heavy duty Ram trucks model years 2000-2002.

 

[n7gxz]

Here is a link to a write up that I did for replacing the front seals in my 2001. You just need to do the first part unless you want to do the seals as well.



Procedure_to_change_the_axle_seals_on_the_front_axle_on_a_2001



Kevin

 

[KFranco]

Here is a link to a write up that I did for replacing the front seals in my 2001. You just need to do the first part unless you want to do the seals as well.



Procedure_to_change_the_axle_seals_on_the_front_axle_on_a_2001



Kevin

Great work!! Using the hub puller and then taking an 8" piece of bar and banging the hub/bearing ears is about the only thing I didn't try when taking mine apart. I would like to think this would have worked for me but since I had to replace my ball joints I just cut them and then took the knuckle and hub/bearing to my press and pressed out the hub assembly. My bearings were shot... metal on metal and when it finally pressed out it looked like a broken weld. I used up an entire 3m pad like yours on cleanup.

 

[JCyrbok]

Thanks to all that replied to his thread. Brakes are done. Went with the Hawk performance pads from Geno's and Powerslot rotors.



Pass side took about an hour (about 45 minutes of it was my fault). Spent about 20 minutes trying to get the caliper back on and for the life of me it was not going. Finally realized that one of the bolt bushings had slid out a little and was hanging up. Pushed it in and passenger side was done five minutes later!.



Driver side took about 1/2 hour (would have been faster if the bleeder was not stuck, took about 10 minutes with PB Blaster and working at it to get it unstuck). I think if it had not been for my mistake and the bleeder, the job truely would have been less time that it takes to R/R the wheels to get to the brakes!



Other then the above it was a typical brake job. Fairly easy but a PITA just to have to do it (LOL), plus it was cold out in the garage so that was not fun either.



Everything works fine and the pad/rotors work better then stock (but may be due to the wear on the stock ones in the end).



Pass side pad were just about down to the rivets and the driver side still had 1/4 inch of material. Rotors has some scoring and a couple of real weird gouges in them that didnt make sense so it was probably good that I replaced them.



One thing that it did was use a 5/8 12pt socket for the brackets instead of the 16mm 12pt that manual says it is. The 5/8 seemed to bite better for me.



Oh the brake fluid was kinda nasty looking so that is my next job.



I got almost 72k miles out of the stock brakes/fluid so that is not too bad.



Really no surprises on this one.



Thanks again for all that replied.



J-

 

[TBartlett1]

When I do brakes I suck the old brake fluid out with a turkey baster (the auto parts store has these for that job) and refill with new fluid.

Most of the fluid is in the master cylinder when the calipers are pushed in so that is the best time for this job. I do this every time I replace pads or shoes. The anti-lock brake system is very sensitive to moisture (rust) and can be damaged, so by doing this it helps keep the system HAPPY!!!



Tim