Here's a suggestion on doing your brakes... . it has worked for me since the first time I did the brakes about 8-9 years ago and, ever since.
I pull the wheels and then remove the calipers. I fasten the calipers up above the rotors securely. Loosen the reservoir cap and let it sit loose on top... .
You'll need to go easy on the next step cause it'll squirt brake fluid pretty good.
While the calipers are off the rotors, you can use some c-clamp vise grips and compress the piston back into it's bore. Be sure to have a catch pan handy cause it will push fluid out of the reservoir.
Then I have someone push on the brake peddle while I watch the piston start to come out... I want it come out far enough to pass the part were it was when I removed the caliper. This process seems to help keep the piston running "a bit free'r" and I have less chance of pulling one way or another when I am done the job.
Next I get a good hand drill (or even better an air drill/tool) I mount a rubber backed sanding disk, oh, say, 250 grit on the drill.
Then I tip the disk at an angle onto the rotor face and fire up the drill. You may need to give the rotor a twirl with you hand to get it rolling but you can actually use the sanding disk to run the rotor around while the sanding disk takes the glaze off the rotor. After a bit, I tip the disk the other way and do the same thing. It leaves a nice crosshatch pattern on the rotor and works good for taking the glaze off.
Just move from in the inside of the rotor near the hub, outward to the outside edge an back.
Then I turn the wheel so the rotor is angle outward and away from the truck and do the same thing on the inside surface right were the dust shield is open and you can see the rotor.
Works great !!!! I repeat this a few times and then I use the same disk to "freshen up" the brake pad surface a bit.
You can use 250, 300 grit to do this. Don't go too fine on the grit rating cause you actually want a rough surface on the rotor face.
When I'm done, I open up the brake reservoir and fill it up. I go below and loosen the brake bleed screw and let it dribble out into a catch pan.
As it dribbles out, I keep topping up the reservoir so it doesn't go dry.
Soon the fresh fluid is at the bleed screw and then tighten it up.
This works on the fronts but I haven't tried it on the back ones yet.
The next step is to use the drill with a good stiff wire wheel and really dress up the caliper slides... I use brake clean to rinse them off when I have removed all the rust and garbage, then I use good anti-seize on the moving parts.
I know this seems like alot of work but once you've done it a couple times it's a snap to do and works great.
So far, I have not had to turn my rotors even once. I "miked" them recently and they were well within runout spec and thickness was barely below "new" value.
I haven't worked out anything like this for the back brakes yet but I have found a way to get them to "adjust up" really easy...
I raise the rear of the truck up on a good floor jack, start the truck up and at an idle, I slip it into reverse... . once the tires are turning real good, I apply the brakes firmly, then I put the trans in "D" and let it go thru the gears till I'm in 3rd and they're turning pretty good, then do the same thing... put on the brakes hard.
If you repeat several times you'll have breaks that are nice and snug and will work well for about 4-5 months until you have to tweak em again...
Well, that's my idea guys... try it, you may find it works great for you to.
pb.....
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
As long as it's a reputable shop that you know will do it right, it may be, especially when you consider having to mess with the hubs, knock the studs out and drive them back in to change the rotors, etc.
