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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front calipers

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I have an 01 2500 and the brakes are sticking on. Are there any calipers that are noticably better than others or should I buy a pair of rebuilds at the local auto parts store? Is there any disadvantage to rebuilds vs new? Thanks for the input.
 
At 125K I just installed my 3rd set of calipers. I've used new and rebuilt with the same result. I don't buy cheapies from Autozone. Calipers have been a problem on Dodge trucks since my 85 1/2 ton. I just change them now to keep from having to do it later. So I guess my answer is NO. Makes no difference.
 
I had some pulling problems on my '96 until I put EGR calipers on it. Fairly spendy but solved the problem EGR Performance Brakes

Another important thing you need to do is to clean & grease your caliper pins on a regular basis, this contributes to binding & brake pull.

Vaughn
 
I concur with Vaughn. I put the superduty calipers from EGR on my front brakes a few years ago along with their slotted disks. They have worked great ever since. Brake pad wear is even. But as Vaughn said, maintenance on the slider pins is important. I clean and regrease them in the spring and fall.



-Jay
 
I am a sales guy who uses his truck as a daily driver and tow vehicle. I service the pins on the brakes a couple of times a year as well. The problems I've seen with calipers is the pistons get egg shaped and won't slide back in giving me uneven wear. I recently bought a set of calipers and rotors(drilled and slotted) from my NAPA guy. They seem to be working well but time will tell. I drive from 50 to 200 miles a day so I'll keep an eye on them.
 
According to the guy at EGR Brakes, the pistons in their superduty calipers are hand fit and done so at at operating temperature. Supposedly this gives them their greater longevity and reliability, plus higher price! Not sure if this is for real or just marketing, but it seems to be working for me.



-Jay
 
I am a sales guy who uses his truck as a daily driver and tow vehicle. I service the pins on the brakes a couple of times a year as well. The problems I've seen with calipers is the pistons get egg shaped and won't slide back in giving me uneven wear. I recently bought a set of calipers and rotors(drilled and slotted) from my NAPA guy. They seem to be working well but time will tell. I drive from 50 to 200 miles a day so I'll keep an eye on them.
I put NAPA drilled/slotted rotors on mine 5 months ago. So far everthing is fine but I'm waiting to see how they wear. The NAPA drilled/slotted rotors were directional (Left/right) and I mixed them up and had to remove both again. . be warned. The NAPA rotors were PN for Right PR86324R and PN for Left PR86324L my cost (with discount) were $134 apiece. These rotors had much less slots and holes than the Power Slot so I feel they are strong enough and won't warp.



They don't show any wear yet but my old rotors were warped and cracked so bad that the front end "Death-Wobbled" bad when brakes were touched. The NAPA Super Duty pads were SD-7339M I believe and $70. Very nice pads with beveled ends on pad surface.



The NAPA rotors were costly so I hope they wear well. Here is a thread to a pic of mine on post #9:



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-1994-1998/198313-1997-hub-rotor-upgrade.html



I agree about keeping the calipers greased. When I replaced my rotors the caliper bolt/pins were gummed up and stuck. I could have cleaned and silicone greased them but I just replaced the pins, rubber sleeves, and steel sleeves for about $20. I haven't replaced calipers yet so this thread is interesting to me. I'm sure that's coming up for me.



Dave
 
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The calipers are prone to sticking in the bore in the NE because most are assembled dry allowing rust to develope between the piston and bore. The proper way to assemble the calipers is with synthetic brake grease so rust cannot form.

I have seen even new calipers from various venders dry. I disassemble, lube then reassemble making sure the area under the boot is filled with brake grease.



Tim
 
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