Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Front crank seal

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 13mm plungers??

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) AFS star wheel tight

Status
Not open for further replies.

dflaugh

TDR MEMBER
I just spent most of the day attempting to fix a front crank seal or cover leak ,not sure which. Ended up trashing the crank seal trying to use that seal streacher/installer thingy(clear plastic) that came in the kit. Question is if you put the streacher/installer on the crank how do you remove it afterward. I believe the instuctions said to remove it. :confused: Went ahead and tabbed the KDP,was still in 1/8", locktited and tighened the bolts,2 case bolts were very loose (finger tight). After finding the bolts I was very glad to have been motivated by the oil leak! HELP ! on this crank seal. "96" 4x4 200,000 miles
 
Last edited:
Not sure what you are fighting... . so I will explain what I know.



The plastic cone is taperd to fit the seal on the small end and the crank on the other end of the installer. With the seal installed in the front cover, put the small end of the installer in the back side of the front cover, with the big end toward the crank. Push the whole works on the crank, the seal will slide up the installer and will pop off the big end onto the crankshaft. Pull off the plastic installer and put in your tool box for later... .



Does this make sense?
 
also helps installing the seal in the from cover to heat the front cover in the oven and freeze the seal in the freezer. one expands the other shrinks making it much easier to get the seal seated square in the cover.



then do as DValentine says above to slip the seal over the snout of the crank. I have found that as you press the seal over the snout to rotate the cover as you press. seems to help it make the "jump" over the end of the snout.



good luck



ON EDIT: make sure that you clean any oil from the crank snout and install the seal dry. i use brake cleaner and alcohol to make sure that I get it all. if it is not clean you will be doing this again very soon.
 
Last edited:
If I recall this correctly I simply slid the plastic sleeve on the crank and then simply placed the cover (with seal already in the cover) so the cover could now address the crank with sleeve in place on it and seal rode up over sleeve, finished positioning cover for a couple bolts to keep in place and enough of sleeve extends outside of seal for you to slide it off. One regret I have is not doing my homework on how many internal gear case bolts were actually needing checking. Recall only discovering 4 and tightening them. Now I worry over the remaining ones undiscovered and therefore potentially in need of tightening. One apparently needs to rotate engine to locate the remaining ones through gear spoke openings. I got one of those.
 
Seal install tool

Once the cover is in place and a few bolts are installed to keep the cover on, just grab the clear plastic sleeve with thumbs and fingers and slide it off the end of the crank, sometimes a small pair of pliers is helpfull for grabbing the sleeve. The new seal will relax and shrink against the crank. Make sure the seal and the crank are dry, the seal lip is teflon impregnated and transfers some of the teflon onto the crank and creates a virtually friction free sealing surface that lasts a very long time.



This install tool is pretty neat, and works well. I keep them around for the KDP/timing jobs where the seal is not replaced.



I have yet to see an actual bad and leaking front seal, and have worked on many over 200K trucks. This seal really lasts a long time.



Question: has anyone ever figured out where and when to use that additional rubber edged ring that comes in the seal kit?? Cummins doesn't say anything about where, which way the rubber seal lip is to face, how far on the crank, etc. With the rubber edge, it is tempting to think that it is meant to seal agains the front cover in the bore for the seal, but that isn't a machined surface and has a painted coating on it. Any ideas?



Does anyone know?? Since the trucks work fine without the added seal or slinger, I leave it out. for fear of creating a problem. Not a leak yet.



Hope someone has an answer. Greg L
 
Lsfarm said:
Question: has anyone ever figured out where and when to use that additional rubber edged ring that comes in the seal kit??



I was told that it is a dust/dirt cover for protection of the seal. Used in industrial type applications where mud and dust could be splashed up into and on the outer face of the oil seal. Unless you are mud boggin you don't need it.
 
Extra seal

So it is intended for use on the outside? between the crank pulley and the seal?? I'll have to take a look at that arrangement, it might have a few advantages for some trucks



Thanks for the info. Greg L
 
Finally got new seal installed(2nd try) friday as per everyones instructions. Took truck for a drive today,everything looks good-no leak! THANKS
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top