Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Front crankshaft seal wear ring

[GAmes]

I have to change my seal because the old one leaks. I removed the front cover and installed a new seal. It was then that I discovered my crankshaft has a wear ring installed. (see pay it forward if you need the stock size) Michael, down at Hot Rod Diesel must have installed it when he installed the PDR cam, 207k ago. He might have told me, I don't remember.



How do I get the old one off and what is the best way to install the new wear ring? The mech at the Cummins shop says he heats the old one cherry red with a torch and pries it off with a pr of screwdrivers. I don't have an acetalene torch, and even if I did I don't think I want to mess with the temper of the crankshaft. I'm thinking Dremmell cutting wheel. That leaves me with installing the new one. The same mech said to install dry, no lubing of the shaft. Start it by tapping it with a 2X4 then use the old wear ring to drive it on since I don't have the special tool. If I cut the old one off I can't use it for the install and I'm not sure it would work anyway. If I put a bit of bearing grease on the shaft is there any chance it would spin? It seems to me that if the clearence is that loose then installing dry would take less force than installing bearing races into a hub. Any advice on R & R will be appreciated.

 

[kenny61]

See if a piece of pvc pipe will work I often use them for driving bearings seals etc... .

I'm not sure about the wear ring be careful with the dremel so you dont knick the shaft if you do put silicone between the ring and shaft when you put it back together

 

[Woodenhead]

I'm assuming a wear ring is the same as a speedy sleeve, installed where the seal has worn a groove in the shaft so the new seal has a new surface. Am I correct? If so and the sleeve doesn't have a groove in it then why replace it? Just install the new seal and call it good. I'm probably missing something here.



Mike

 

[GAmes]

No you aren't missing anything. After sleeping on it I may do that. I just hate to waste all the extra $$ the wear ring added to the cost of the new seal and it seems like I should use it since I have it.

 

[GAmes]

Just went out a looked at it with a really good light source, and it needs to be replaced. The worn portion where the last seal was shows a brass color under parts of the chrome finish. So I'll be cutting it off with the Dremel. I still need advice on installing the new one. The PVC idea sounds good if there is a correct size.

 

[Joe G.]

The installation depth for the front crank seal is NOT critical. Just install it so it's on a good place.

 

[kenny61]

To adjust the pvc size cut it in half, not all the way in half, just half in half... . Put two notches in the end 2 or 3 inches deep and 180* apart. Then with a hose clamp on the split end you can adjust the ID of the pvc pipe. Depending how much adjustment you increase your "splits" from 2 to 4,6,8 etc

 

[Forrest Nearing]

The installation depth for the front crank seal is NOT critical. Just install it so it's on a good place.

that's what I would do... install it 1/8" back or so and let 'er eat

 

[GAmes]

The installation depth for the front crank seal is NOT critical. Just install it so it's on a good place.

Joe, of course, you are correct. However, I didn't see you post until I had cut it off, but I think I would have anyway. I really don't think that I'll have to do this again. Work would have to really pick up, I would have to keep driving and the truck lasting to 850k? The most likely is the truck lasting to 850k.



The dremel tool part only took about 5 minutes. I fashioned an installation tool out of 2 inch PVC and connector.



Lessons learned; Don't use the dremmel on the very top of the ring. There is no depth perception looking straight down. Cut it about 45 degrees from the top. Do put a little engine oil or grease on the inside of the ring and the outside of the shaft before driving the new ring on. I had mine about half way on before I discovered this. The last half was a beeach. Remove the radiator first. Gives you more room to swing the hammer, plus it eliminates the chance of damaging the radiator. No, I didn't damage mine but it would have been easy to.



Pic of old ring and tool.

 

[Bob4x4]

The right... ... ... . spelled easy way to remove the sleeve is to hit it with a ball peen hammer,not to hard,it will deform it enough to come right off with no damage. A little trick I learned while working on big rigs



Bob

 

[GAmes]

Thanks Bob. Where were you yesterday??:-laf:-laf