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Front Diff Oil Change

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Does the track bar or what some members are referring to as the tie rod, needs to be removed to drain and inspect front diff ?
 
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No, the cover slides right off.



I had no problem switching out my covers for PML covers. Now it's a quick affair to change diff fluids.
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Just wanted to make sure. I'll be changing front/rear diff, xfer case and engine oil next weekend with Amsoil. I've purchased new diff gaskets and engine oil pan plug for the event in line with the 72k km maintenance interval (B schedule). I'll post part numbers once I get the pics uploaded for those who are interested.



Speaking of engine oil, any thoughts on the newly released Amsoil DEO 5W-40 premium synthetic (DEO link) . I was considering the Amsoil 15W-40 Synthetic HD Diesel and Marine motor oil until I saw the press release for the DEO.



Thank again !
 
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You dont need new gaskets. They are re-usable for years. Really good quality.



Also on the front diff cover you dont have to remove it completely.

I just unbolted it and let it drain then re-torqued the bolts and re-filled.

As I remember I torqued the bolts to like 20ft lbs.
 
jwilliams3 said:
You dont need new gaskets. They are re-usable for years. Really good quality.



Righto, however this is the first oil change and maintenance check I am doing on the vehicle since purchase used in April 06. I bought them just in case, not knowing in what condition the existing ones are in. And for what I paid for, I should hope they are reusable. Same for the pan plug.



jwilliams3 said:
Also on the front diff cover you dont have to remove it completely. I just unbolted it and let it drain then re-torqued the bolts and re-filled. As I remember I torqued the bolts to like 20ft lbs.



I've noticed searching thru different posts that this is a common procedure, but I want to ensure there are no shavings elsewhere then what I can find in the drain pan.
 
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I "torque" my diff cover bolts to "snug". There are cases of people snapping the heads off, so you want to be careful. Whatever you do, don't torque them to the specification in the factory manual!!



It doesn't take very much torque to seal the gasket.



Ryan
 
I can vouch for that Ryan, I torqued with my service manual info and ruined a bolt. It didn't break but it did stretch. Lucky I had another in my parts box. The front is harder to get off than the rear because of the track bar being in the way but it isn't bad.
 
I find it hard to believe you could snap the head off one of those bolts using the factory torque specification of 30 ft-lb. Are you guys going to 30? Are you at least using loctite? Mine came from the factory with red. Myself, I cleaned up the bolts and downgraded to blue. Factory torque specs.
 
HLewallen said:
I find it hard to believe you could snap the head off one of those bolts using the factory torque specification of 30 ft-lb. Are you guys going to 30? Are you at least using loctite? Mine came from the factory with red. Myself, I cleaned up the bolts and downgraded to blue. Factory torque specs.



Red? :eek: Mine came from the factory with no Loctite, and I've never used any. Did you boil the diff fluid removing the red Loctite? :eek:



Ryan
 
If your not inspecting anything just loosen her up without removing and let the fluid drain and top her back off. The reusable gaskets are made of a thick black rubber and double seal.
 
Ha - no, but they were a little tough coming out . . .



I realy need to get a bench grinder set up - I had to clean all my bolts with a little wire wheel using a power drill. Tedious, yet frustrating. That red stuff don't want to come off.
 
HLewallen said:
Ha - no, but they were a little tough coming out . . .



I realy need to get a bench grinder set up - I had to clean all my bolts with a little wire wheel using a power drill. Tedious, yet frustrating. That red stuff don't want to come off.

I think that might have been red silicone sealant, not Loctite. Red Loctite can only be removed by heating (or by an extremely motivated person with a new 3/4" breaker bar ;) )



Ryan
 
I admit I did not expect to see red on those bolts - but it was red, it was applied like loctite (position on the threads), and it had the consistency of loctite (crystallized in the threads - had to use a blade to break it up in the threads due to my weenie wire wheel - but even it would have taken off silicone). I just thought maybe a different vendor with a different color scheme? I don't know why it would come with red loctite or silicone down on the thread like that. So I stopped trying to figure it out and just put on tiny dabs of service grade stuff and said good nuf.
 
rbattelle said:
I think that might have been red silicone sealant, not Loctite. Red Loctite can only be removed by heating (or by an extremely motivated person with a new 3/4" breaker bar ;) )



Ryan



I always thought red was impact tool removal and green was the one you had to heat up.



Jeff
 
Thanks for the input ! You got me concerned on those front cover bolts though. As promissed the pics and parts numbers for the oil pan plug, front and rear diff seals for those who are interested:



Mopar/Cummins Oil plug P/N 05080631AB

Mopar Front Diff Seal P/N 05086682AA

Mopar Rear Diff Seal P/N 05086905AA
 
Yep - that's them all right. Those are the best darn diff-cover gaskets I have ever used (they actually seem to work). I am used to older trucks and scraping silicone - was it just a fluke that they made these things servicable/reuseable?
 
HLewallen said:
Yep - that's them all right. Those are the best darn diff-cover gaskets I have ever used (they actually seem to work). I am used to older trucks and scraping silicone - was it just a fluke that they made these things servicable/reuseable?

I think AAM was trying to impress DC. Look for them to discontinue using these nice gaskets now that they've got a good business deal going. Plus AAM posted a loss in the 3rd quarter, so you know they're looking to cut costs.



Ryan
 
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