Archived front drivers side axle seal 98 2500 diesel

[xxxHollywood]

front drivers side axle seal leaks. its a 98 dodge 2500 4x4 diesel. How hard to fix or how much to have it fixed professionally?

 

[bighammer]

Have you done anything to the font axle (ie:U joint, rotor, ball jooints) or did it just start on its own?



If it was just serviced, give it a few weeks and it should stop. If not.....



The seal is in the differential. Axle shafts, diff gears, all have to come out.

 

[kevinthompson]

This may not help you any but I thought it was good place to share it.

When my 98 was under warranty twice the seals leaks on the rearend and soaked the brakes. The dealer fixed the seals but I had to pay for the brakes. The third time it was still under warranty and I mentioned it to another mechanic and he put in another brand of seal. Chicago Rawhide, I believe. End of problem. I have had dry brakes for the last 200. 000 miles.

 

[ewcmr2]

kevinthompson wrote:

dry brakes for the last 200. 000 miles.

flame red,02,4x4,3500,6spd,garmin gps4" exhaust, banks brake





WOW! you've got 200K on a 2002?



Eric

 

[LSMITH]

It is a royal PITA. Also if it has not been done before there is a very high likelihood that the stub axle threads will be destroyed when taking the axle nut off, it will require a new stub axle, u-joint, and axle nut in addition to the new seal. The passenger side can be done in most instances without trashing the stub threads. Take it in, the dealer is well worth his money in this case. Let them have the headaches.

 

[ewcmr2]

It is a royal PITA. Also if it has not been done before there is a very high likelihood that the stub axle threads will be destroyed when taking the axle nut off, it will require a new stub axle, u-joint, and axle nut in addition to the new seal.

---

That wasn't my experience. It was a lot of parts to take apart, but nothing was destroyed or ruined when I did this on my 96 (at 160K miles).



EC

 

[LSMITH]

Originally posted by ewcmr2

That wasn't my experience. It was a lot of parts to take apart, but nothing was destroyed or ruined when I did this on my 96 (at 160K miles).



EC

I would guess then that your truck was built in St Loius. I have heard that the St Loius 24V trucks have the problems as well.

 

[kevinthompson]

Let me clarify:

I was talking about my 98 which has 232,000 miles.



My 02 is just my signature.

 

[ewcmr2]

I would guess then that your truck was built in St Louis.

---

Actually, Mexico. Both of them.



EC

 

[LSMITH]

hmmmm. Mexico for me too. Drivetrain guy at the dealer told me nearly all of them he does ruins the nut and stub, this guy was a good mechanic too. Service manager confirmed what the mechanic said when I was a little miffed about the stub.

 

[Dreher]

Can one of you guys clarify how removing the nut causes the damage?



Bob

 

[bighammer]

I don't understand why it would get bugered up. Just remove the cotter pin first.

 

[illflem]

I've never had a bit of trouble with the nut and have removed quite a few. The axle stub frozen in the bearing is a different story though. Like someone else said, if you've had any work done where the four bolts that attach the rotor to the unit bearing have been removed the seals will likely leak, or seem like they're leaking but will stop within 500 miles. Let the dealer fix it if you're under warranty, here's what is involved http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Front Axle Tech/Front Axle Tech.htm After reading this you may feel the dealer is the best way to go even if you're out of warranty, it's not too bad $125 per side.

 

[Bhooper]

How to tell when tlheyre lying

An easy way to tell if a Dealer mechanic or Service manager is lying is watch thier lips, they will be moving. . Hmm a service manager swore his mechanic was telling the truth? Thats odd... .

 

[BWilson]

I changed mine myself. After looknig through the manual and seeing that you needed a special spreader tool, tried to get one (man are they expensive) made a makeshift one (very) and finally talked to a friend who told me to just pry the pig assy out (actually he said, "hell with 200K on that it should just fall out"). It didn't fall out but it was pretty easy. I think it took about 4 or 5 hours to the whole thing the first time (much faster now) and I changed the brakes and a steering joint too at the same time.