Front driveshaft rebuild or new

[Yo Hoot]

At 200k my 2004 4x4 driveshaft has a bad u-joint.
I see you can get new ones fully assembled for 250-400 bucks.
It's got 3 u-joints and I have the means to change them out.
Any recommendations will be appreciated.
BTW I searched front driveshaft and got basically nothing back in the search which I think is strange.
If I just buy the joints.... recommendations and part numbers.
Rock auto shows shafts with different lengths. Not sure what that is about.

 

[Ozymandias]

Let me find my partnumber, I got a brand new MOPAR...

This is the latest revision >>>52123326AD

 

[Ozymandias]

 

[Ozymandias]

I got this after wasting money for u-joints at the factory unit to no avail.
Then found out that the new one is much beefier then the old and the price is right.
It comes bare metal, I spray painted it black.

 

[Yo Hoot]

How about length? Direct fit? Rock auto has multiple lengths under the same truck

 

[Yo Hoot]

I got this after wasting money for u-joints at the factory unit to no avail.
Then found out that the new one is much beefier then the old and the price is right.
It comes bare metal, I spray painted it black.

$700 is a bit steep

 

[Ozymandias]

Of course direct fit, this partnumber is the one that fits your and my truck no matter how long it is.

Google around I've seen it today for shy above 500$ - the latest revision with D at the end.

I think I paid something about 450$ a couple years ago.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Thank you

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Just throwing another option in the hat. Torque king 4x4 has alot of nice driveline products and parts for the Dodge HD trucks. I've used their U-joints, bearing and seal kits before.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Friend who works on these trucks all the time has rebuilt his a few times but told me to buy a 1350 instead of the stock 1330 ujoint shaft. I have one on order.
https://4xshaft.com/collections/dodge-products/products/dodge-2500-and-3500-front

 

[BigPapa]

When I worked at the truck shop, our drive shaft shop would replace the whole head, cut it off and weld a new one on. In our experience, rebuilding was problematic and didn't last.

 

[Ozymandias]

Friend who works on these trucks all the time has rebuilt his a few times but told me to buy a 1350 instead of the stock 1330 ujoint shaft. I have one on order.
https://4xshaft.com/collections/dodge-products/products/dodge-2500-and-3500-front

Stock is 1350 for many years now. That changed about 10 years ago that DC went away from the 1330 joints. That's why I insisted on the above part number because some places still sell NOS parts, especially the aftermarket. But that said, prices went up insanely, almost doubled now then when I bought one.

Tom Woods are decent, had one in my Jeep and it served me well for many years. Downside is the greaseable joints. I don't want them anymore.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Stock is 1350 for many years now. That changed about 10 years ago that DC went away from the 1330 joints. That's why I insisted on the above part number because some places still sell NOS parts, especially the aftermarket. But that said, prices went up insanely, almost doubled now then when I bought one.

Tom Woods are decent, had one in my Jeep and it served me well for many years. Downside is the greaseable joints. I don't want them anymore.

Greasable is an option. Why don't you like greasable?

 

[Ozymandias]

First, they need to be greased regularly, in offroad situations even more - no greased, fail fast.
Second, even regularly greased it seems they fail earlier then the sealed ones nowadays.

I went to fully sealed around ten years ago after I worked repeatedly with greasables in my Jeep for many years. Never regretted the change.

In a Semi the sealed ones can easily go to 600k Miles and beyond.