Front Driveshaft Rebuild

[Blue Ox1]

Has anyone had any experience with rebuilding the front driveshaft,it looks like most people are just replacing it with a new one from dodge . I was looking at new ones and they seem to run anywhere from 275-300. I was just wondering why not just rebuild it . It looks like just 3 u-joints, mine has been popping for the last few weeks and it's time to take care of it.

 

[BHatton]

Have rebuilt several, not too bad. Our dealer did not show the centering bearing seperate, but napa has it, as well as the other three joints.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Mine was an absolute BIT CH to rebuild.



I ended up taking the part/s to two different driveline shops and 1 offroad only shop before getting everything apart.



I tried using the torch to get the u-joints out, but failed. The 4x4 shop used heat and a big ole' shop press to free the joints. And then. . . . . . . .



I just bought a new driveline. $255 and I was back in action.

 

[pjorlando]

Did my son's '03 3500 a few weeks ago. The u joints were the easy part. Getting the bearing hub assemblies was the bear. We wound up using a bottle jack and the snap on special tool wedged against the axle to pop them out. It was a chore, the salt and sand from running on the beaches here on Long Island rust welded everything together. Did I mention the 10 pound slide hammer and flange puller also. I would have tried the smoke wrench, but alas, out of oxygen, so it was grunt work. I have grown fond of and used 2 blocks of wood (4x4) about a foot long to support the axle, some type of punch to remove the c-clips, and a ball peen hammer to smack the joints apart. It has worked on almost any u-joint that I've replaced over the years without a hitch. Just make sure to line up the cups correctly to avoid loosening up the needle bearings inside. I believe the joints were around 40 bucks each and the hubs were 200 each, all from Rock Auto Parts.

 

[Blue Ox1]

My biggest concern is the cup in the cardan I've never done one and just unsure of how it comes out . I'll have to look at my shop manual and see if it shows it. Also what brand u-joints local place has neapco I have never used them they are greaseable though. I might just order thru rockauto they are cheaper on the bearing cup.

 

[SierraRam]

The cardan joint is a pain, got to be very careful that you don't dislodge the needles during assembly.

 

[pjorlando]

The front driveshaft itself is tricky to say the least. So far I've been lucky and keep mine well lubed. I've rebuilt a few when I worked for Jeep many years ago, same principle, same joint, just smaller and lighter duty. The front axle u joints we got from Rock Auto were good quality and did have zerk fittings in them. After looking for best placement, we found, having the zerk face inboard away from the hub assembly would allow for lubrication without any interference. I have found, Rock Auto has been good for almost any parts I need and delivery is fast. I've ordered parts for everything from Subarus to VWs without any problems, such as wrong parts or cheap quality parts. They list several choices, and I always try to go with factory quality or better. I have yet to be dissapointed. Having been a professional automotive tech for many years, now retired, I appreciate having the right parts for a decent price.

 

[BigPapa]

Clinard Drive Line in Nashville uses an updated head. Seems like it was @ $200-$225. They will not replace joints in a stocker.

 

[BDaugherty]

I just bought a new driveline. $255 and I was back in action.

Where did you wind up buying from? The all I've seen in that price range has been remans. I need to go through mine, but I've been putting it off. Besides the hassle with the ball and socket, I would really like to upgrade to the greaseable style but I'm just a little too cheap.

 

[tpuig]

I just replaced mine a few weeks ago. Dropped it in the driveway and brought it to a local shop. Luckily he was a member of our car club. The joint were shot.



He had the parts on hand, with a grease fitting, and I was out the door for $300 the next morning. From what I've read, I got a pretty darn good deal. He said to lube it every 5k and it should last.

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Where did you wind up buying from? The all I've seen in that price range has been remans. I need to go through mine, but I've been putting it off. Besides the hassle with the ball and socket, I would really like to upgrade to the greaseable style but I'm just a little too cheap.

I have an IN through Napa as a close friend of mine owns one.



The driveline was bought from Dodge via Napa Auto, so I got it for just a little over cost.

 

[Blue Ox1]

Well changed all the u-jonts and bearing cup on the driveshaft,All I have to say is what a pain in the butt. Will install tomorrow and see how it worked. The concerning thing is all the old u-joints still had grease in them and actually did not feel that bad . Hopefully this fixes my knock ,if not onto hubs maybe pinion.

 

[SierraRam]

Well changed all the u-jonts and bearing cup on the driveshaft,All I have to say is what a pain in the butt. Will install tomorrow and see how it worked. The concerning thing is all the old u-joints still had grease in them and actually did not feel that bad . Hopefully this fixes my knock ,if not onto hubs maybe pinion.

Is your truck lifted? If so how high?

 

[Deleted member 995608]

Well changed all the u-jonts and bearing cup on the driveshaft,All I have to say is what a pain in the butt. Will install tomorrow and see how it worked. The concerning thing is all the old u-joints still had grease in them and actually did not feel that bad . Hopefully this fixes my knock ,if not onto hubs maybe pinion.

Make sure that the joints are free and loose before ya take it for a spin. If anything is binding, take a hammer a give the yokes a good whack. This will help settle em in their place. Don't kill it! Just smack it like you would your mother-law.

 

[Blue Ox1]

Stock height on truck,All the new joints are definitely tighter than the old ones ,but they do move freely in the yokes .

 

[Blue Ox1]

Update: Truck is back to being smooth as ever ,new u-joint and ball joint fixed my knock. I was really starting to wonder if it would fix it after seeing the old u-joints still had grease in them and were smooth. It worked out ,so for 75. 00 fixed the driveshaft.

 

[BDaugherty]

Today the dealer quoted me $325to for a new shaft. I think I'll buy a new ball and socket and Ujoints and see about building it myself. BlueOx, where did you buy your parts and did you get cold forged Ujoints? I was considering buying the kit from Quad4x4 to upgrade to a greaseable ball and socket, but the price is just too close to what a new shaft costs. I might try to drill and tap mine to add a grease fitting.

 

[Blue Ox1]

I got all my parts from Advance auto they had all the u-joints and ball and socket in stock. The u-joint were made by Neapco and the ball and socket was a Moog. Neapco makes a ball and socket and is 10 bucks cheaper they just didn't have it in stock when I bought mine. All my u-joints are greasable too, I had to face the first joints grease fitting towards the transfer case to be able to fit so it might be a pain to grease but it is in there.