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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front end alignment-what to look for?

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I need my 1st front end alignment on my 95' 2500,CTD. I have 160k miles on the truck now. Tires have always worn even and truck has always handled fine. Just now I can see the outsides of the tires start to wear. Local front end shop is quite good and reasonable. What should I look for and expect? Any one got a guess on parts needed and price? Thanks Larry.
 
well, all I can say is that a regular alignment costs about 40-50 bucks and most shops won't mess around with adj. control arms (or cam bolts for that matter) to adjust caster. So basically you're paying them to check toe in (and possibly adjusting the draglink so the steering wheel centers) ... .



But if it's been a while it's still worth it to see the caster/camber/toe in numbers on a print out of the machine to check if they're correct/within spec

:)
 
Thanks guys . Any other ideas? Just went out and crawled under truck, don't find anything loose but tires are wearing on inside on the left and outside on the right.
 
The factory range or tollerance is too wide.

Do a search here to get more info.

Make sure the left and right camber is set tighter than stock. Caster needs around 5-6 degrees.
 
castor angle ?

Following the above link I found



" Alignment programs (and service manuals I believe), give a wide

acceptable range for front caster on the 4x4 Rams. I believe the range

is 2 degrees to 5 degrees (if that's not correct, it's pretty close).

The problem occurs when the alignment tech (independent or dealer)

tells you that the measurements "checked out fine", just because they

were in this broad range of acceptance.

Caster readings that fall on either end of the scale are subject to

caster shimmy, even though they are "acceptable". I had to align some

30 trucks and attend a 9 hour "Dodge Ram Chassis Dynamics Diagnostics"

training session (fancy name, ehh?), before finding out that 3 degrees

to 4 degrees is the optimal caster setting for 4x4 Rams that eliminates

caster shimmy.

"



Any comment on how the suggested 5 to 6 Degrees relate to the above?
 
lklauder said:
Any comment on how the suggested 5 to 6 Degrees relate to the above?

the 5-6* is pretty much a rule of thumb :)



I've also had luck with caster being lower (3-4* like stated in your post), so basically what it comes down to: if it works on YOUR truck it's fine ... .



Doesn't really help either, does it ;)



Just make sure that you don't have one side on 5* and the other on 2. 5* (therefore my remark about the spec sheet from the alignment machine)



:)
 
Got my truck back today,all is well. Had to put on new ball joints top and bottom. New trac bar. Alignment. brake pads. Funny thing is after I picked it up from the front end shop, the 4WD light stays on all the time. It works normal in 2wd and 4wd but the light stays on. Looked under the truck and all wires and vacuum hoses were on . Any body got any ideas?
 
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