2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front end bushings

[Kalaehina]

My 96 4x4 has to have all the front end bushings replaced, also tie rod ends, steering shock, basically everything under the nose is warn and needs to be replaced before I can get an alignment. I would like to replace them with some type of polyurethane bushings. Anyone do this job yet? What did you use,and where did you get your replacements? Also this is the first time I'm getting to work on the front end so any advice on tools needed and what to watch out for would be greatly appreciated. I just installed Skyjacker 2 inch coils and want to replace the stock steering stabilizer with the dual end to end set up, if that makes any diffenence. Thanks again!

 

[Darel]

The biggest problems you will run into are in the steering linkages. Get yourself a good pickle fork kit (Sears has a nice one with interchangeable heads under the name Lisle) and a small sledgehammer (one pound will do) for removing tie rod ends. Count the threads showing before you unscrew the ends so you can put them back on and at least your alignment will be close for when you drive to the alignment shop. DC's steering stabilizers are a royal PITA. I've done several and I've found the best way to remove the drag link end is to remove the cotter pin and castle nut, then grind off the bit of the stud that protrudes through the drag link until it is flush. Then you can try a pitman arm puller AND your handy one pound sledge. Yes, they should pop right off with no grinding and just the pitman arm puller, but I have yet to see one that does. For some reason the tapered stud in the stabilizer has an even tighter fit that those on the track bar! If you don't grind it off flush, what I've found happens is the end of the stud mushrooms under the force of the puller and hammer and you end up grinding it off anyway. It's just easier to grind when it's held in place.

As far as the control arm bushings go, these are not a big deal if you have a vise and some very large sockets. They are also a press-fit but a vise exerts enough pressure if you put one socket on the bushing, then a larger socket AROUND the bushing on the opposite side. By tightening the vise you can just press the bushing out of the hole. Press the new ones in just using the vise, no sockets. Another thing to consider is that many companies offer complete replacement control arms (Rancho, or just about anyone who makes lift kits) that are tubular steel, so they flex less than the stockers, with poly bushings already installed.

When you go to replace the arms, be sure to scribe a mark where the eccentric bolt is pointed in the axle end of the arms. There's a little arrow on the bolt cam, and some hash marks around the outside of it. Again, this will put your alignment back to "close" for the drive to the alignment shop.

Finally, from the book of "Stupid Things I Only Remind People of Because I've Done Them", don't forget grease!

Hope this helps!

Darel

 

[Kalaehina]

Thanks Darel, that's exactly the kind of advice and instructions I was hoping for. Can't beat this site and it's members, thanks again!