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Front End Rebuild Questions

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Odd shifting.

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My 01 4x4 Quad Cab (183k) is starting to get a little scary to drive on the highway. Just go new tires (stock size General Grabbers) and now I'm really noticing how hard it is to keep in my lane.

A local 4x4 shop gave it a very quick look and said "oh on those Dodge's you just need to redo the whole front end, for $3,000-$3500. My preferred shop said they'd have to jack it up and really look it over to be able to know what needs work, but that a full overhaul with parts and labor would be about $3500.

The truck has a BD Diesel or Synergy steering brace, Gen 4 steering setup, Suspension Maxx sway bar links, new Bilstein 4600 shocks. Both shops have said nothing is obviously loose or has too much play, so the only solution is to redo everything new. Before I drop a ton of money into this wanted some opinions from this forum.

Are these front ends really that bad? Am I needlessly replacing things that have already been replaced, like the steering bar and end links? And for people with 300k, 400k or more on their trucks, are you really replacing your entire front end every 100k to 150k miles?
 
And for people with 300k, 400k or more on their trucks, are you really replacing your entire front end every 100k to 150k miles?

My answer is "No". I have replaced upper and lower ball joints at 216,000 miles - they were working fine, just time to replace. I also replaced a couple of steering linkages then. I still have the original right side tie rod end on the truck. The odometer is currently at 347,000 miles. I am still running with the original front and rear anti-sway bar bushings, as well.

The weak link is the track bar. The track bar ball joint on the driver's side is not up to the task. A third generation retrofit trackbar is the answer to that. I upgraded to a Rare Parts track bar and that has solved my track bar problems.

I will say though, if you run large wheels and tires, you will wear out front end parts at a much faster rate.

Also, you can easily check for worn steering and suspension parts yourself - especially if you use your smart phone video camera. Just rig up a camera support and point your camera at a specific joint and start the video. Get in the cab, start the engine and begin moving the steering wheel smoothly about 20 degrees side to side (3 or 4 times) to load the joint on the steering axle. Shut the engine off and watch your video. Do the test for each steering and suspension component. You will easily see what is working properly and what is not.

- John
 
My answer is "No". I have replaced upper and lower ball joints at 216,000 miles - they were working fine, just time to replace. I also replaced a couple of steering linkages then. I still have the original right side tie rod end on the truck. The odometer is currently at 347,000 miles. I am still running with the original front and rear anti-sway bar bushings, as well.

The weak link is the track bar. The track bar ball joint on the driver's side is not up to the task. A third generation retrofit trackbar is the answer to that. I upgraded to a Rare Parts track bar and that has solved my track bar problems.

I will say though, if you run large wheels and tires, you will wear out front end parts at a much faster rate.

Also, you can easily check for worn steering and suspension parts yourself - especially if you use your smart phone video camera. Just rig up a camera support and point your camera at a specific joint and start the video. Get in the cab, start the engine and begin moving the steering wheel smoothly about 20 degrees side to side (3 or 4 times) to load the joint on the steering axle. Shut the engine off and watch your video. Do the test for each steering and suspension component. You will easily see what is working properly and what is not.

- John
Thanks John! I will try your suggestions. These shops think I’m made of money and just want to replace everything!
 
Hi, update. The shop that I went to yesterday who didn’t even bother to put the truck on a lift just sent me a quote.
$4,596.35 for ball joints, ties rods, track link, sway bar links, steering stabilizer, new shocks. Does not include a steering box or coupler.
He also ignored the brand new Bilstein 4600 shocks I got from Geno’s Garage and the new Bilstein steering stabilizer, saying they are “the wrong parts for that truck”.
I really want to give people the benefit of the doubt but this guy seems like a crook.
 
Take the time and do the inspection yourself - you won't regret it. And, you won't be replacing perfectly good working parts. You can get help on this forum for how to inspect components that you may be concerned about.

- John
 
Take the time and do the inspection yourself - you won't regret it. And, you won't be replacing perfectly good working parts. You can get help on this forum for how to inspect components that you may be concerned about.

- John
Thanks John, is there an guide on this forum on how to do those inspections? If not I will Google how to check ball joints, tie rods, steering box play, etc but happy to take any pointers you want to share.
I’d prefer to learn how to do everything myself as long as I don’t need a bunch of special tools and equipment.
 
Crawl under the truck and have someone else steer the wheel back and forth with the engine off and watch for movement in each part . The track bar and tie rod ends will move up and down if they are bad. To check ball jack up the front of the truck and Move each wheel by sticking a big pry bar under the tire and see how much the wheel moves without moving the axle
 
Crawl under the truck and have someone else steer the wheel back and forth with the engine off and watch for movement in each part . The track bar and tie rod ends will move up and down if they are bad. To check ball jack up the front of the truck and Move each wheel by sticking a big pry bar under the tire and see how much the wheel moves without moving the axle
I jacked up each side of the truck and each front wheel barely moves when pushing or pulling on it top and bottom. There’s maybe a millimeter of movement.
I will grab a friend or neighbor to move the wheel while I’m under the truck. I looked at everything underneath and nothing has any play, but that’s sitting static.
 
I jacked up each side of the truck and each front wheel barely moves when pushing or pulling on it top and bottom. There’s maybe a millimeter of movement.
I will grab a friend or neighbor to move the wheel while I’m under the truck. I looked at everything underneath and nothing has any play, but that’s sitting static.
Ball joints and wheel bearings are good now we need to check tie rod ends and track bar
 
With the engine off turn the wheel until gets hard then rock it back and forth slow against that resistance and you’ll really see things move
 
Mike, my truck only has 254k miles, I got it in 5/01 with 75k and have done so many things over the years. The best improvements on the front end I've done, and recommend that you consider are:
3rd gen track bar
PSC steering box (you'll have to eliminate or highly modify steering stabilizer, this PSC box is way bigger than stock due to large bearings and is a tight fit)
Tubular upper & lower control arms.
Got 3rd gen track bar kit and PSC box @ Geno's (over the years) and control arms thru Top Gunz Customs (like $225) uppers & lowers. Highly recommend you get new can bolts and other new bolts for arm installation. Don't recommend getting them online, NAPA perhaps, and make sure you tell them GVW when ordering. Hope this helps
 
So I took my truck to a Mopar specialist that was recommended by a local car club. He put it on the lift with me and checked the entire front end and his conclusion was that everything is really tight, nothing worn or ready for replacement, except maybe the steering box. He said nothing is new, but nothing in bad shape either.
I have a Redhead steering box (Black Friday sale) that I’m going to attempt to install and hoping that does it.
Thanks for all the help so far. I may need more to get the steering box done
 
Wait a minute, you say Gen4 Steering?
What alignment specs is it set, Factory or Thuren?
From what all you have already fixed your truck should travel down the road like a champ.
 
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