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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front end upgrades

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If I were to start to replace all of the parts associated with the steering of my truck that could be causing my truck to wander all over the place (trac bar, steering shaft, ball joints, steering gearbox, etc... ) where should I start? As I will have to do it a couple of parts at a time. Is it like a domino effect if one part goes then the rest will follow??? HELP!!

Thanks

Scott
 
Start with whatever is the worst,check them out and see. Track bar replacement will make a big difference if it is worn out. Get a DT or Moog (lifetime warranty). Same goes for ball joints,tie rods etc,buy Moog now,and if they ever go again,they are free.



Your steering box probably won't need replacement,just adjusting,as shown below



Off truck :



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/mods/steering/steering_gear/Adjust.htm



On truck:



http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/1997/19-10-97/19_10_97.htm



Don't forget the little stuff like control arm bushings,shocks,etc
 
All the adj in the world will not affect lateral thrust on the pitman shaft. Have some one diddle the steering wheel while you watch the pitman arm. if it moves sideways more than about . 010" before it starts to rotate then the box is toast and needs replacemaent or rebuilt.
 
From under the truck you can grab the steering shaft right where it connects to the gearbox, there is approx. 1/4 - 1/2 turn of play in the shaft while the truck is off and in park. Dealer says this is normal???? If it ain't normal whats bad steering shaft or gear box? Also, I had my trac bar replaced approx. 5000 miles ago. Will the DT trac bar cure the whole trac bar issue as there will no longer be a ball joint end for the bar? If it will I am ordering it tomorrow. Sorry for the long winded post but I'm very frustrated with the way this truck drives. My brother in laws 1999 F350 super duty with a Fisher V-plow attached out handles my truck hands down. Although he's only got 10 cylinders. ;)
 
S Grady, Some play is there when the pump is not running and there is no pressure to the steering box. Try the same senario with the engine running and see if you get any free play. Look for side play in the pitman arm shaft... shouldn't be any.

Truck should be parked on a level surface . . cement or asphalt...

You want some resistance on steering.

Look close at the mounts at the box and make sure it looks tight and no cracks

Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth and look at all pivot points for any looseness or freeplayplay...

I am running 65 psi front and 60 rear.

Tires can make a big difference I've alsway liked Michelins.

Hope this helps.

I feel for anyone that has a poor driving truck no mater what brand.
 
Scott, replacing just my trackbar and steering stabilizer with Napa lifetime warranty parts ended my wandering. Only thing I need to watch now is rear brake adjustment about every 5k to prevent pull. No problem driving and braking with no hands now, before it was a battle just to stay in one lane.
 
sTEERING

s GRADY Ihad the identicle problem you are talking about. It took three trips to the dealer to fix it, 1. They did an alignment. 2. Installed a new track bar. 3. Replaced the steering box. The steering box (gear) really the trick. It drives much better since the replacement. The first thing I would recommend you do is check the steering box. Good luck.
 
I have a 2001 3500 with 225,000 on the clock. I front end was getting a bit loose so I replaced the track bar which helped a bunch. As I plan to keep this truck for a long time and also do a lot of cross country, I decided to replace all of the ball joints and tie rod ends. I also upgraded the steering box to the new Geno's upgraded box. WOW, that new steering box is 2 turns lock to lock quicker and really made this truck drive great. I have a 2013 Dodge 1500 and my 3500 with the new steering box gives way better road feel. I should have made this upgrade years ago!
 
Once you unscrew the tie rod ends from the adjusting sleeves, you're pretty sure to need an alignment. On a 2wd, if you remove the control arms to replace the bushings, you're gonna need an alignment. If you can replace the balljoints with the arms on the truck, you can go without aligning. Pitman arm and idler arm can be done without aligning too. Track bar probably can too. Not sure about bushings & joints on a 4wd. So I'd do the worst parts first, and hopefully not have to do an alignment more than once. Or save up and do it all at once.
 
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