2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front End Wanderin...

[TSaxon]

I hate to post a "new topic" on something that may have been covered in previous months, but I wanted some specific advice on my situation.



First, my 99 QC 4X4 just turned over 162,000 miles and all I have changed is the fuel pump (at 130,000). That is, of course, other than oil, filters, tires, etc.



At this time, when I drive down the road at highway speeds (70 mph) the steering wheel moves WAY too much. I have heard and read of the "death wobble," but I don't think this is it. I can turn the wheel from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock at 70 mph and the thing stays straight - well - with a steady right pull - I guess.



I have looked under the car (and had others do the same) when turning on the steering wheel. The best thing I can say is that the tracking bar (? terminology) and the bar off the pitman arm (tie rod end?), are moving up and down without turning the tires. There is quite a bit of play in the whole system Is this common? I can see how the truck would pass inspection if the tires were off the ground - no resistance. But if they were not.....



Either way, what do I need to change? The dealer had a tracking bar for $300, a tie rod end for $80 and the shock absorber for $113. I had planned on getting new shocks and tires (which are needed). Am I looking at the whole shooting match to correct the problem? Anyone have a similar situation? If so, is there somewhere else to get the parts a little... . um..... "less expensive?" I hate to be too cheap, the truck is paid for.



Any and all responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[Ron Bissett]

what to do ?

Take your paid for truck to a good alignment shop for alignment. The shop if it can not align the truck will tell you what you need in the way of parts and suggest best place to get it done if they do not do the work there. Always look for the shop in your area that dose the heavy truck ,garbage school ,fire ,emergency ect . go for it Ron in LOUISVILLE KYOo. Oo. Oo.

 

[Rob Thomas]

First thing is to stay away from the dealer, unless you HAVE to get the part there, they're always twice as much $$. The track-bar is a common culprit, as is the drag-link. The track-bar is available at most auto parts stores for around $160, or there are alternatives, such as the Luke's-Link, or a DT track-bar, do a search on both for more information.



The last time I looked for a drag-link, it was not available after market since '98 model year, but check around at your local stores and see. Also the factory Steering stabilizer is junk, and you can purchase after market for about half the price, I use a Skyjacker dual stabilizer set-up on mine, it has held up fine with 35" tires for 50,000+ miles.



Hope this helps.



Later, Rob

 

[baby.driver]

Ball joints, tie rod ends and the inboard track bar end are made to pivot ONLY.

Any up-down movement of the stud in the socket indicates a bad part.

Never buy from the stealer what is available elsewhere.



Jay

 

[TSaxon]

A sincere thanks to the three of you. At this time, I am considering the purchase of a DT trackbar and using Luke's Link kits elsewhere. This should take care of the problem. If not, we'll go back to the drawing board.



Thanks again.



TS