2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front End Work

[CBlack]

OK, finally going to break down and have my ball joints et al replaced.



I will be purchasing the parts from Rockauto.com and having a shop do the work as I do not have the gear/tools myself.



Other than the ball joints I was going to replace the tie rod ends and adjusting sleeves, shocks and possibly add new coil springs (to level it out).



Is there anything else that I should change out?

 

[SRath]

Are you doing the HD crossover t-style steering linkage conversion? Now is the time. Strictly bolt-on and a vast improvement.



The only hitch is you will need to use an aftermarket stabilizer and brackets. Not a big deal at all, but something else to buy.



Personally, I think an aftermarket stabilizer setup works better for exactly the same reason the T-style steering does. Bumps and normal cycling of the suspension do not affect it when one end is attached to the axle instead of the frame.



If your balljoints are bad enough, you might take a close look at the ends of your axle tubes, too, especially the passenger side, and check for differential oil leaks. They don't take much wobble for long and continue sealing. A little bit of axle shaft wobble is a whole lot of wear on that passenger side seal. I sleep better knowing that my formerly totally worn out front axle (steering and ball joints) also has new outer u-joints. They actually seemed OK, the ONLY thing in the steering and suspension that was, and they aren't exactly cheap, but I would kick myself if one went bad or broke because I tried to save some money in the wrong place while I had it all apart. A broken axle u-joint can be disastrous for other, more expensive, parts.

 

[CBlack]

But I have a 2wd... so I don't think a lot of that would work?

 

[SRath]

Dohh! I should look at the signature, huh? You are absolutely correct. It does not apply at all. Balljoints and tierod ends are all you need.



Aren't you glad I'm not there to 'help' you some more?

 

[SHobbs]

Might as well do the control arm bushings while its apart. Another thing to consider is the idler arm as well. I have no idea why changing the idler arm was needed on mine. After I rebuilt the front end and after hitting a bump in the road the steering wheel nearly jumped out of my hand. A little research and discovered what that arm does and it stopped the steering wheel from jumping around. My front end is still tight and soild after three years.