2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Front hub bearing loose

[DLausche]

So, I've got slop in my right front wheel bearing. Is it too much play if the rotor has worn through the splash shield on the inner side? It only has 1/8" up/down slop or so?



Ok, I guess it needs fixing. What is my best choice... ?



1) New bearings (&seals?) in existing hub? ... Have pressed in at machine shop.

2) New hub assembly with bearings? Best source $ ???

3) New 00 or 01 hub assemblies + rotors to make it easier to R&R rotors. Don't necessarily know if the newer ones with the rotor outboard will even work or not.



I replaced the right front rotor 50K ago and when I did it, the hub would not come off the knuckle. Ended up pulling the bearing apart with a LARGE puller. Got the new rotor on and pulled the bearing back together with the axle nut. Didn't know how long it might last. Guess it's not too bad with 50K miles after that.



What is the best way to get the hub inner race off of the knuckle. 3 yrs ago it would not budge and I expect the same this time.



Thanks

-Deon

 

[tp0d]

I dont think the bearings are available without the hub. . I`ve priced the hubs before, and theyre not that bad, from a local outfit. . (not a $dealer)



As for removing the hub/rotor assembly, I used a 4" porta-power hydraulic ram, and a 3/8"x3" extension and socket to push out the upper left and lower right bolts. Worked great, a few cycles left and right and it just fell off. You can rent the portapower things at a local tool rent shop,etc. . cost me $50 for two days, best 50 ive spent. Hose everything down with PB Blaster, and when you've got the hub to move out a bit, tap on the axle lightly with a 2x4 to move it out of the hub. I cleaned all contacting surfaces on mine with a wire brush, then applied nickle based anti-seize. .



As for the 01 hubs, I duno if they will match at all. I think they made an axle change then, so they prolly wont. . dont quote me on that though.



If you've got the truck down, i`d replace both hubs and rotors if they arent the same. Doing one half of a braking system at a time isnt a good thing to do.

 

[biggy238]

I Agree, Spend the money to do both sides. I goofed and pressed my hubs apart and neither one lasted another 10K.



I also want to back up the Antiseize, although I used copper. I had my passenger side apart after 8K and a good deal of four wheeling and it slid right out into my hands yesterday.



Whats the deal with the different anti seize metal? I'll change it if it's a good reason.



Good luck.

Kyle.

 

[Bfoot17]

When mine went I think I paid $160(non ABS) for the hub assembly from O'Reilly's. It was a BCA brand hub too. If the rotor is not to thin, warped, or heat cracked you should be fine using it again. I would recommend replacing the studs will you have them out. A punch and a 4lb mini sledge works great for drive them back in, and the old hub or rotor works great for lining them back up.

 

[DLausche]

Well, I picked up a new hub assembly this afternoon from NAPA. Was ~$250 and I thought that wasn't too bad - I expected it to be more. I'll check another parts place tomorrow to make sure the price is in line. tp0d, I also took your suggestion and went to Northern and picked up a small, 4 ton porta-power type hydraulic ram. That should make it a lot easier to get the old hub out. I was also thinking I would be ok using a moderate amount of heat on the knuckle to get it to expand and release it's grip on the hub. This will most certainly trash the inner oil seal, but the whole unit will be going in the garbage anyways, so no big deal.



I generally like the idea of doing both sides at once, but funds are limited right now. The rotors look decent on boths sides and it has been stopping fairly well for quite some time so I think I will reuse the rotors and pads as long as I don't find something otherwise once I get in there. Also, I am confident that the reason this bearing failed was because I forced it apart and then back together 50K miles ago. I didn't think it would last this long at all.



Anyone know what the average life expectency is from one of these bearing assemblies?



Gonna work on it tomorrow after work. Hope it is warm enough outside. Thanks for the suggestions.



-Deon

 

[DLausche]

OK, got the hub replaced. The old one was definitely bad. The axle stub looked burned like it was really hot inside there. I can't believe how tight that hub was in the knuckle. I beat the livin carpola out of it for about 2 hours before it came loose with the porta-power. While it was out, I noticed several things that I figure I'd ask you guys about.



1) What I think is the seal flange for the hub inner seal was REALLY badly rusted. The old seal was gone and the inner side of that stamped steel ring on the outside of the axle stub yoke was rusted, pitted and badly scared on the inside. The best I can tell, this is where the seal from the inner side of the new hub is supposed to ride. I took the axle shaft out and cleaned, filed, sanded the seal surface as best as I could. Is that sealing flange replaceable?



2) Oil leaked out of the axle when I removed the axle shaft. I tired to be careful when replacing the shaft to not damage the oil seal. Is it likely or not too that the seal is trashed from taking the axle out/in once?



3) After I had the whole thing apart, I noticed that the lower ball joint has play in it. Gonna do some more searching here tonight about ball joint replacement. I usually do all my own work on the truck, but this task I might leave to the professionals. Or, is it not too bad to do oneself?

 

[Jeff Knight]

I sold my 95 with 198000 miles on it. It had the origional hub assemblies still in it. If the ball joints are in the knuckle part they aren't as hard to change. Hope this helps. Jeff