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Front oil seal install

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Killer dowel pin but not quite

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OK, I thought I'd post this as it's own thread instaed of tagging it onto some of the KDP and gear case discussions going on now.

I'm currently reassembling my truck after tearing it down to do the KDP prevention and finding a cracked Fuel Gear.

I got to the point of installing the front seal and wanted to pass along a tip. I would get a chainsaw file and bevel the seal lip in the front gear cover while it's off. It seems this lip is pinched at the outer nose of it making it a royal B__CH to get that seal started once the cover is on the truck. (you have to do it that way after centering the cover on the crank with the provided tool in the seal kit)

Just spending a few minutes beveling this lip in the seal bore will help a lot. sure wish I'd have thought of it BEFORE putting the cover on the truck.

When setting the seal, the bottom section will drive nicely as that part of the cover is really close to the gear case and is very firm. The top part of the seal is rather bouncy to drive in since the sheet metal timing cover is not really supported nearby.

Just a few tips I hope might help someone.
 
I found it much easier to install the seal from the inside while the cover is off. I use a short piece of 4 inch pipe to set the cover in upside down.

the first one I installed was a beast also
 
I always put the seal in while the cover is off. That's that way all the FSM's I have read tell to do it too. (Dodge and Case) I can't imagine trying to put the seal in with the cover on and fighting the installer tool too. :eek:
 
Yeah, it is a fight, but that's the way my 1989 Cummins suppliment says to do it. I think it would be much better to have designed the cover with locating pins to get it centered on the crank instead of using the installer tool while the bolts are loose and no seal installed. I could definitely see bench-installing that seal to be the easy way too!
 
That little plastic gizmo-centering tool is used to slide the cover (with the seal) into place over the nose of the crank. Thus centering it.



Feel free to do it anyway you like, though. As long as it works aka no leak.
 
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