front passenger side caliper

[jpogue]

I'm on my 3rd caliper on the front passenger side in 2 years. They end up sticking after 6 months to a year and wearing out the inboard pad faster. I've replaced the lines as well with some high dollar braided ones so it's not gummed up or deteriorated brake lines. Also when I replaced the pads a few weeks ago I noticed that the caliper piston is really hard to push in. Yes I did remember to take the lid of the brake fluid reservoir. My friend has had this same problem with his 97. I tried searching on the forum and didn't see anything specific with this problem. Any help is greatly appreciated. Now that steelhead season is over I've got time to do some much needed maintenance. My truck is a 96 4WD

 

[Cummins12V98]

PowerStop coated calipers are very nice!!!

 

[KATOOM]

Just an added suggestion... Make sure when you install the pads that you fit them in the caliper mounts so that they actually move smoothly throughout their travel across the thin metal guides. If they dont then use a square file edge and file away the paint or rough surface of the pad until it moves nice and smooth. They're cranked out in factories so its not uncommon that there's excess paint on them or they're not stamped out perfect. NEVER grease any exposed surfaces because it only attracts dirt/debris.

Also, make sure the slide pins are clean, free from corrosion, and greased with a good quality synthetic like "Red N Tacky".

 

[jpogue]

Thank you I'll try the file work on the next set of pads. A local shop here recommended cleaning out the combination valve since it keeps happening on the same side. Once I get this figured out I'm going to do the disc brake upgrade for the rears.

 

[KATOOM]

Thank you I'll try the file work on the next set of pads. A local shop here recommended cleaning out the combination valve since it keeps happening on the same side. Once I get this figured out I'm going to do the disc brake upgrade for the rears.

Be careful putting rear discs on these trucks. Not only is there almost no gain in doing so because drums are VERY strong, but the rear discs are very susceptible to corrosion and sticking. A common problem for 2nd gen rear disc trucks. I cant comment on aftermarket kits though...

The main issue overlooked with rear drums is making sure they remain adjusted. The star adjuster sticks and then they never adjust. If the start adjuster isnt seized then keeping an ear out for the audible "click" you can hear if you slam on the rear e-brake while the truck is rolling in reverse will help the drums adjust.
Also, people replace drum shoes and dont understand that the shoes must be sanded to match set to the drum surface otherwise they will not contact correctly and offer weak spongy braking.

 

[petersonj]

A local shop here recommended cleaning out the combination valve since it keeps happening on the same side.

The combination valve provides proportional braking to the rear axle brakes in comparison to the front axle brakes and incorporates a pressure differential switch that will set the brake warning lamp (red) in the dash if the pressure differential between front and rear axle brakes exceeds a specific value. The combination valve has no influence for right or left brake operation.

- John

 

[Cummins12V98]

I am beyond happy with this setup. I really like the lube in the second pic. PowerStop Cradles and Calipers. EBC Pads and Rotors.

 

[jpogue]

PetersonJ thanks for the help on the combination valve, and Cummins nice brakes and I'll check out that lube