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Front Pinion Seal LEaking

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driving home I had this awful smell. The Front pinion is slinging gear oil everywhere!!!:mad: When I changed the fluid 2000 miles ago I left it 1/4" below the plug. I need to put 1000 miles between tomorrow and Wednesday. Will I be safe if i watch the level. Is this covered under the 7 / 70000 warranty?? What could have caused this?:--)
 
What kind of oil did you use? They're pretty specific about what can go in these. Although, I can't imagine it damaging the seal, especially after such a short period of time.
 
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Ok !!! I looked in case something else was leaking onto the diff. .

It is not the engine breather hose leaking down onto it either. Because the oil originates from the pinion area. And the top of the diff. is clean. Any ideas what could have caused this:confused:

I used Valvoline Durablend. I have some Amsoil on order. I just changed the fluid at that time because I wanted to see if I could find the Howl from my rear end.
 
DO we have tech in here that can give me an opinion?

Someone please help before I bring to my WONDERFUL FIVE STAR DEALER THAT BELIEVES THE TURBO IS IN THE REAR.
 
Resurrecting an old thread here. It looks like the brand of diff fluid may have something to do with these leaks. I am also running Valvoline in my front diff & can't keep a pinion seal in it or more than 5k miles. (the current seal has less than 500 miles on it & is seeping again)



I'm going to switch to some Mobil 1 & see what happens



4 replacement seals within 75k miles, & counting... .....
 
Leaking

Mine leaked with Amsoil so I had it fixed. I switch to Mobil 1 and it's leaking again. Does anyone know how to fix it or is it easier to just take it to the dealer? First time fixed at 35,000 and this time it started leaking at 49,000.
 
I think that the replacement seals available from the dealer are a problem. Problem is, there are no numbers on the seal to enable cross referencing to a decent aftermarket seal. I had a similar problem with my 96 Ram gasser that would puke transfer case seals on a regular basis until I found a NAPA replacement seal. That cured the leak & I put roughly 60k miles on the truck before trading it. The OEM seals would go 5k max. I have not been able to find an aftermarket pinion seal for my '03 front diff yet.



Hey, aftermarket guys!



Are you reading this? Oo.
 
My front pinion seal failed at 68K... replaced under warrantee for the $100 deductable (probably about the normal charge to replace the seal... ). Been running Royal Purple since about 15K.
 
Be sure to 'prep' or 'clean' the seal surface on the pinion input shaft (seals mating surface) - just changed mine with approx 125k on seal. I prepped the 'mating' seal surface with some fine emery cloth - clean surface and apply a coating of gear oil or light grease to both the inner seal and mating surface - hope no more leaks - also remember to seal the splines, washer etc with a sealer like a good silicone rubber - ie permatex ultra black. While I was in there - I replaced the outer drive axle u-joints and changed the axle fluids, nv5600 syncromesh oil, and tcase oil... . axles 75w90 mopar synthetic $$$ ouch, mopar syncromesh oil - trans now smoother and quieter, and transfer case w/ atf+4 - sum total quite a few days removing the axle bearing assemblies and some ka-ching..... ouch... ... . $ oil and u-joints... Project complete :cool:



Think I'll keep the axles changed at about a 100k schedule (oil looked good)and the 6sp nv5600 @ approx every 50k (oil thin)- those gears and synchros can really beat up that oil - and given the cost to replace - a fresh batch of oil now and then can't hurt.....
 
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I have just had BOTH pinion seals replaced under warranty at 7500 miles. Not too impressed with AAM diffs. I would like some Dana 80's myself. Wonder how long the replacement seals will last. Dealer replaced fluid in both with a 75-140 synthetic Mopar oil. Rear now had a slight whine. Wonder if I get a new rear end soon?
 
If you now have a whine when there wasn't one before, they haven't got the pinion bearing pre-load correct. Get ready for another diff... :(



(Been there, done that with my local dealer)
 
Heading to the dealer in about an hour. I am 0 for 2 now for mechanics at dealer not taking their time and doing things right. First one in VA did not re-align front driveshaft back to pinion flange like it originally was, had bad vibration at high speed. Local dealer tech did something wrong back there. Probably left pinion nut loose, only thing that makes sense that would stop the vehicle in it tracks. Felt like there was a bolt dropped into the transfer case (or rear end). Not sure lack of oil would have done that. I drove the truck for about 60 miles yesterday, could not get the problem to repeat but did have a rolling whine from rear. They can order me a new rear, fine with me. Problem is not sure I trust them enough to change it!
 
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I changed both of my difs two years ago with RedLine. 43,000 miles and still nice and tight.



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JARichard said:
Mine was caused by bad U-joints! I think. After the U-joints were changed I never had a problem or the howl again!

They changed just the u-joints in the driveshaft, or they also changed the pinion seal?



Ryan
 
JARichard said:
Could the breather hose be clogged? Any one know where it ends?



J



The breather hose ends right at the front drivers side shock tower, you need to cut off the stock clamp, remove the hose from the front diff and blow some compressed air up and out the little check valve by the shock tower.



Reinstall the hose with a standard hose clamp. This also needs to be done to the rear as well, and the transfer case breather too. I do mine at every oil change.



I have a picture of what the little check valve looks like in my readers rig photo's, the one shown is for the transfer case.



mac :cool:
 
rbattelle said:
They changed just the u-joints in the driveshaft, or they also changed the pinion seal?



Ryan

Well, the whole story is 5star just changed the pinion seal. 300 miles later another pinion seal. So, I pulled off my front drive shaft and brought it to a drive shaft shop. Chabged u-joints with greasable units and BALANCE THE DRIVE SHAFT! Never had another problem.
 
I replaced my first front seal at about 62k and now at 98k it's leaking again.
How are you guys doing with the rebalanced driveshafts?
 
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