Front Rotors?

[Rhinohd]

I have done many break jobs on 2x4 vehicles but never a 4x4. How hard is it to remove the front rotors? What does the job entail? Do I have to pull the whole hub off? If so will I need any special tools? I have not pulled the wheels off yet, I just wanted to know what I had in store for me...

 

[dcherill]

easy

they are knock off rotors. just take off the calipers and zip tie them to the shocks. do not hang them by the brake lines. cut off the little assembly clips that hold the rotor to the wheel studs. if you live in salt country, get yourself a nice sledge hammer and go to town on that old rotor (leave a lug nut on to keep it from flying off)

clean up the mating surface and put on plenty of never sieze.

 

[Rhinohd]

Awesome! Thats exactly what I wanted to hear! Thanks!

 

[jelag]

Before I would take them off... . I'd put a dial indicator on them... with less than . 002" of run out... I'd leave them... unless you have taken the pads to the rivets...

Please check for dirt behind the boots that fit between the piston and caliper... I've seen most of these trucks with dirt behind the boot and pistons that are scored and damaged from the dirt... some that don't retract... .

 

[Semicrazy]

Before I would take them off... . I'd put a dial indicator on them... with less than . 002" of run out... I'd leave them... unless you have taken the pads to the rivets...



Please check for dirt behind the boots that fit between the piston and caliper... I've seen most of these trucks with dirt behind the boot and pistons that are scored and damaged from the dirt... some that don't retract... .

I agree with jelag. No need do anything with the rotor for a brake job unless the LRO or thickness variation is out of spec (ie you are getting pulsation in the pedal) or you took the pads down to metal on metal. The spec in the DC manual says . 001" but . 002 is more realistic as jelag mentioned.



Also, in addition to the comment above, I would not use a metal sledge hammer on a rotor that you wanted to reuse, if you use a hammer such as a dead blow or rubber sledge is much easier on the rotor. If you plan to junk the rotor, then by all means use a metal sledge and go to town.



We use a slide hammer with a claw on the end that inserts into the rotor cooling fins between the two rotor faces to help prevent damaging to the rotor upon removal.

 

[Rhinohd]

Thanks for the advice! They are not down to the metal and I don't have a dial indicator so I might just see how they look. There is no pulsating I just need to get them done after 2 seasons of plowing and a little squeal...

 

[JHardwick]

I'm on my 4th set of pads and haven't removed the rotors.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

Speaking of pads and rotors. Boy was I shocked when the dealer said that I have an option of two pads (which he couldn't explain), and the price of the pads are $65 and $100+! Wow, I've never had to buy such expensive pads. However, before I started complaining about Dodge, I wanted to check Pep Boys. They want $60. Damn, these must be some special pads required for these trucks. #@$%!

 

[dcherill]

the other reason for new rotors is when you are trying to replace a U-Joint and the rotors are frozen on and you can only get them off with a sledge and you destroy the rotors anyway. don't ask me why I know that