Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) front seal question

[CEdwards]

I ordered a new front seal from cummins to do my kdp tommorow. I've reasearched it on here but i'm still confused. In the seal box was the seal with plastic guide stuck inside it. Does it go on with the larger tapered end in first? Then put cover in truck and pull plastic out? Will I be able to pull it out? I'm thinking the plastic thing is in backwards it would have to be large end out. I have the ring that must be used for tapping it in and setting the depth. The thing I really don't understand is what is the black rubber plastic ring thing for? where does it go? cummins instructions don't tell me anything. By the way will I need a puller for the dampner pully?

 

[Johnstra]

If I remember right you put the larger end of the clear guide on facing the crank. It helps you guide the cover and seal over the snout of the crank. It will pull out easily after you get the cover and seal on. The black plastic rung must be the dust cover. My kit didn't come with one. You don't need a puller for the damper pulley; just unbolt it and it'll come off. You might want to take a good look at your vibration damper while it's off. Look at the rubber in it and see if it's cracked or bulging out. I'm replacing mine because the rubber is starting to come out and it's rubbing on the front cover.

-john

-john

 

[SRadke]

John has it right. Big end on the crank and the seal will slide up over it. I've done a few and always done it on the bench without the cover installed. Every one has been a PITA to get the seal to start. Alwyas tries to turn cocked in the hole. If you discover the secret please let me know.



-Scott

 

[CEdwards]

thanks for the advice, I'm looking forward to tearing it down in the morning. Sometimes it's actually fun to work on these things when you can plan it and have the time.

 

[AMink]

Put the seal in the freezer and if you can, the cover in the oven for a while to shrink and expand. It might help a little. I think the plastic guide just helps keep the seal from getting buggered up when going over the shaft.

 

[DBraunig]

Yeah, good luck getting the seal started, always a pain. The "black plastic thingy" :-laf is a dust seal, the side with the gray faces the seal and goes on right before you install the damper. make sure to install dry and check the crank snout for imperfections.



Dave

 

[crabman]

The front c/s seal is a PITA to get in straight. If you have a drill press, rig up something to cover entire seal and use drill press to press into place. Do NOT lube c/s or seal will leak.

Putting in the seal is the hardest part along with figuring out how to remove the w/w bottle. (duh)

crabman

 

[1dslram]

Be sure to support the cover while installing the seal. Many shops and Dealers also have warped front covers, once warped the will start to leak after a few thousand miles.

Bruce

 

[MLee]

Becarefull installing the seal, get it straight, And use some guide pins couple inches long [cut the heads off the bolt and shape] to help align the cover. I had the same questions about the plastic protector for the seal, when I started to install the cover the guide just pushed right out to me, done a couple the same thing happened, just really neat. When done give yourself a pat on the back, Job well done.

Marv.

 

[CEdwards]

Well everything went well. KDP was about an eigth an inch out. I also tightened a total of 9 bolts. I was too afraid of dropping them in the pan if I took them out so I didn't loctite any of them except the one on the tab. Hopefully that will be good enough for 240000 more miles. I could always pull the cover again years down the road an inspect them. All in all its a pretty easy job. Everything went well and no leaks so far. I found it was alot easier to start the seal on the inside of the cover but then it is harder to drive it to the other side without damaging it. The original seal was flush with the cover and the outside lip had worn a groove. The new one goes in about 1/4" if installed with seating/depth tool that came with the seal. there was no wear from the seal lip that does all the work on the inside. I guess after 500000 miles I might need to sleeve it. Replaced all the valve cover gaskets and now for the first time ever I have a dry oil free engine. Well almost, there is a seep from the power steering pump, but I'll fix that when it goes out. If it wasn't for this sight I wouldn't have been able to do it. Now I wouldn't be afraid to take on any project on the truck. Thanks for the advice.

 

[DBraunig]

CEdwards,



makes you glad you did it when you finally see that pin hanging out... about to destroy everything it touches. my pin was out about the same when i got to it. glad everything went well with the job.



Dave

 

[Katmandu]

I just bought a 98 CTD 12V with a bad crank seal. The dealer I bought it from is going to replace it soon at THEIR cost.

How big of a job is it to replace the front crank seal ??

 

[DieselTweaker]

not that bad very simple and easy to do.



depending the tools you have, and your ability it can be in an hour

 

[JSienkowski]

Any ideas on how to get the harmonic balancer off with out torches??Harmonic Balancer puller from SEARS don't work... .

 

[firemanmarc]

I hate to junp on someone's thread,,, But, When I did my seal last I noticed my crank was nicked a bit, this sleeve that I see talked about, will this fix my problem?? I sanded the crap out of it and got it smooth but It still worries me. . THank you and Merry Christmas, Marc

 

[SRadke]

The balancer should fall of after you've removed the four bolts in the middle. I've removed several and never had one that I couldn't remove by hand.



As for a "nick" in the crank I assume you mean the seal had worn a groove in it? That happens, the easiest thing to do is not drive the new seal in quite as far so it is outside the groove. Now that you've sanded it though you'll have to get some really fine paper to smooth it back up, the grooves left by sandpaper could cause you're new seal to leak or fail prematurely.



-Scott

 

[Turbo Thom]

All the seal guide does is align the seal to the cam so when you tighten to bolts up, the seal is equal around the cam. It's pulls right off.



Scott's right about the balancer too. If that thing don't just fall off, something is very wrong.



. . PT. .

 

[DieselTweaker]

Ive never had a problem getting a balancer off,,,, heck most of them I have to catch as i pull the bolt's out LOL.

 

[firemanmarc]

I wish I could say it was a groove. It is a nick, like something fell on it. . I was told by previous owner the kdp was fixed. More like it already happened and was jb welded... . ANyway I agree about the dampener, should fall right off, maybe light tap with soft hammer... Happy New Year, Marc