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Front timing cover questions

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92 4x4 rumble strip type noise

Water pump

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How many bolts is there to check to see if there tight ? Im doing the KDP on a 94 engine and i can only see 3 and i got no way to get to the one behind the cam gear . Also the books says 18 foot pounds does any one have a conversion to inch pounds ? My 2 torqure wrenchs dont go down that low . but i do have a inch pound one as well .
Also what is the best way to install a speedi sleave on it as i nicked the crank serface getting the front seal out .
and what is the best and easiest way to get the front seal in as well as the rear seal ? last time i done a front one after the 3rd time messing a seal up i took the cover to a freinds and had it installed by him . as the driver is a joke
provided in the seal kit as s the KDP it moves then bends when you try tighting the bolt . all ideas and help is appreciated Thank You !!!!
 
216 inch pounds. Multiply ft. lbs. by 12. When I had my cover off on my 24 valve I think there was five. Three behind the cam and one above it and one down by the idler for the oil pump. I believe that is it, if I remember right. I have never had to use a speedy sleeve, I can't really help you there. If you knicked the crank where the seal doesn't ride, I don't see a reason for a sleeve. The seal I used a large socket to tap it into the cover. The kit I used came with a tool used to set the depth of the seal. First I installed the seal a little past where it needs to be and then from the front, I use the tool to set the depth and align it. The kit I use is a national 39803, that doesn't have a sleeve with it.
 
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There are 5 - the one behind the cam gear - if memory serves me - you can rotate the cam so the bolt can be removed and cleaned then re-installed. The one that cannot be removed is the one behind PS/Vac drive gear. You will need to bend a wrench to loosen it enough to clean it then use the weeping Locktite and re-tighten it.

Bob
 
Arbor press is the best way to install the seal in the front cover. It can be done with a solid surface and a selection of drivers but much easier with the press.

Installing a speedy sleeve almost requires the Cummins installation tool. Spendy bugger but lacking the absolutely correct seal driver from another source it is the only real choice.
 
I was reading a old post i printed out that genos posted , some one said they used a vice to install the seal , how im not shure any ideas . Anouther thing i seen was a guy some how used the harmonic balancer with the seal driver to pull it in any one know about this ? If some one ever comes up with a better seal cover were it goes in from the back , id be the first to buy one this idea sucks on how to remove and install it .

Any tricks for doing the Rear seal I dont want to screw any up at $40.00 plus too exspensive and most of all i dont want to A hole the Crank !!!
 
Arbor press and it goes in from the back side just fine. Have to have the correct size fitting but with the installer tool a socket works.

Rear main is a lot easier, just pull the seal holder from the block and replace the seal on the bench. Use the installer tool to center the seal and snug it down. Get the gasket for the block and make the pan rail seal form silicone.
 
How can it go in from the back ? I wish it did go in the back up to a stop plate like all the others out there on front covers this is one the after markets need to make a better cover for the front of the engine .
 
The Cummins seal comes with an installation tool and instructions - at least mine did - and it was an easy install. There are just some things I go to Cummins for. They are not the cheapest but I have had good luck with their parts.

Bob
 
I got a extra one of theres as well , i just wish that seal driver was more of a real driver than what i call a glorified washer type thing
 
to install the seal in the cover I use a 4 inch pipe about 6 inches long, lay the cover in the pipe upside down,knock the old seal out install the new seal from the back side. w/ a plastic
seal driver the right size. I tried to put a seal in from the front side once. I found it a lot easier to put it in from the back side.
 
Use the cummins sleeve kit. It's thicker and comes with the corresponding seal. Use your balancer with the bolts to draw it on. Make sure you clean the journal and polish off the burr first. Cummins part number for kit for my 12V is 3802820 I think I paid $89, 99% sure yours is same but confirm that.
 
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Im toying with the idea of a block of wood on the inside of the cover and useing the vise ?
The pipe trick sounds good as well . Im just unshure how the draw the seal in with the dampner would work ?
I got the repair sleve on it was a easy trick used a clean block of wood started it by hand and taped it on used the supplied thread locker included in the kit
 
Like I said an Arbor press makes life a lot easier installing these seals. A set of bushing tools is also needed or pipe to make them.
 
What I meant was to use the balancer to draw the sleeve on. I installed my seal from the back of the cover. Set it face down on wood. With the seal driver (that came with the seal) in the front. Red loctite around the outside of the seal. Then I used a big socket and dead blow to drive the seal (from the back) until in was tight and square with the tool you placed in the front of the cover. This was as per the instructions that came with a KDP kit from Sourceautomotive.biz.
 
Ill have to check out installing from the back side . Im not shure which is better put the lock tight on the seal or the inside of the cover ?, I still think there neds to be a better front cover made
 
There are more problems with the timing case than the fornt cover, for the most part. Pretty easy to change front seal, changing the case gasket is another whole story. An Arbor press and the front seal ceases to be an issue to change, could do that in a parking lot. LOL!
 
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