front wheel bearing

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was doing the front universals when i tryed to remove the rotor i seperated the front bearing i am sure a new one is quiet expensive any suggestions the rotor also has 80000 on it was thinking of putting on a new one since i had it all tore down any suggestions on a reasonable brake set up the best way to do it

 

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Don`t feal bad Bill, You are not the first that has had the bearing come apart. Its common.

This happened to another member. He repacked it with grease and "reassembled" it. He said it went back together ok.

Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 10-22-2000). ]

 

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I had to put the bearing back together one time also,no problem with it for the last 60k. I did use a press to get it straight,but if you're careful you can tap it back in with a piece of PVC pipe the same size as the bearing OD(or a very large socket). If you also pulled the axle shaft out be very careful reinstalling it into the diff,the splines on the shaft can cut the inner seals easily,they're a bear to replace. As for your rotors,I wouldn't replace them nor turn them unless they are warped/scored. Just use some fine emerey cloth to remove the glaze. Slap on some new pads, lube the caliper pins and you're back in business.

 

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I'm confused, I thought the bearing was a press-fit into rotor assembly. Isn't that press-fit the only thing keeping your front hub and wheel assembly attached to the vehical?

 

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There's also 4 bolts that go into the back of the bearing housing.

 

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take the 4 bolts in behind the steering knuckle about 1/2 way out, use a 1/2 drive 12 point socket and 3 inch extension. use a three lb hammer and drive on the extension, this will push the hub and bearing carrier out of the steering knuckle. drive the wheel studs out of the hub assembly and the rotor will come of. i just used the rotors from napa for $70. 00 each... .
good luck... .

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'95 xt cab,slt,4. 10,auto,285 BFG all terrain ko's on Centerline Extreme Billit Comet 3's,K&N,tst 230/605, silencer ring in top of toolbox, boost and pyro in full pillar mt. 159,000 mi and climbing... went to feed the cat and it was GONE !!!!!

 

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How hard is it to get the axle shaft and rotor assembly loose to replace the universal joints? My universals just started squeaking and I have new, greasable ones coming from NAPA. Just wanted to know any pointers from some of you who had done this before. Can I just pull the rotor and bearing assembly off and leave it together while changing the universals, sort of like doing the driveshaft? I can't stand things that are not servicable. Whenever I replace something, I try to upgrade to greasable parts.
As for the rotors, I would not replace them. Mine still look nearly new, with 156,000+ miles and two sets of OEM pads. Never been off or turned either.
Where are the axle seals located? I don't have any leaks so I don't want to damage the seals. Thanks for any help... The service manual is not too detailed on this subject...


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1996 White, Extra-cab, 4X4, 5-speed, 4. 10 Model 80 rear, Laramie Pkg, Rickson 19. 5's w/ with Michelin 265/70 XZT's, 4" turbo-back full-straight pipe exhaust with through the bed stack, Mopar brush guard, "Psychotty Air", no silencer ring, Banks Boost & Pyro Guages 'tweaked' injector pump, 130,000+ miles
Rollin'-S 25-foot, 10 ton flatbed g/n trailer, with Vac/hyd brakes, 16. 5" tandem duals
'92 D350 Cummins, auto/OD, 3. 54, enclosed service body, 45,000 miles. unBOMBed as of now.

 

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It's really a pretty easy job,as long as the unit bearing and axle shaft aren't rusted together. It's much easier to replace the U-joint with the bearing /rotor removed from the shaft,mainly because of he weight and risk of damageing the rotor. The rotor and bearing houseing come off in one piece. Remove the large hub nut and the four bolts that attach unit bearing,if your lucky the unit bearing will slide right off the drive shaft, try not to pull the shaft out of the diff right now. If not put the four bolts back in a few turns,this keeps you from pulling the drive shaft out,then tap on the end of the shaft with a soft hammer while rotating and pulling outward on the rotor. This should get it,if not try penitrateing oil,heat or a puller. Before you remove the spacer and dust shield note their position for reassembly. Now you are ready to pull out the driveshaft,the seals are pretty far in there,the problem that can happen is the seal getting cut by the splined end of the drive shaft,take care to pull straight. Now you are holding the drive shaft with u-joint, do what you need to do. Many folks,me included,have had the inter seal leak after the job is over,keep your eye on the leak, 95% of the time it will go away within a 100 miles. Have fun!

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

[This message has been edited by illflem (edited 10-31-2000). ]

 

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Thanks for the help. I'll be tackling it this weekend! #ad