Archived Front wheel bearings

[AMink]

Is there anywhere to get just the bearings without the rest of the assembly? I messed up large and didn't put the spindle castle nut on and crunched the bearing race. If the price of the new set doesn't kill me, my wife will! Truck's in the drive on stands for the night.

 

[KB0OU]

You should be able to get the bearing assembly at any auto parts store.

last I checked it is around $200. 00. I am not sure how you did what you did, it is a sealed bearing, did you take it apart?

 

[wcjp]

As you found out, the bearing assembly depends on the nut to keep it together. It's a sealed unit. When you buy the new one apply anti-seize to the metal to metal contact areas. This makes later removal extremely easy. Currently the bearing won't come out easy. It might be possible to reattach tire to the bearing and pull. The tire will help with leverage.

 

[JFaughn]

I'm trying to plan ahead and working with a bearing company , what I need is and old unit to compair with , hopefully with seal still intacted becouse thats were the part # is , thats 2nd to just measuring to find a match , if anybodys got one laying around PM me. P. S. I was allso looking to see if I could look at one to try to adapt it to a removable rotor . Just some of the things you think about when you got a more time on hand than $$$.

 

[AMink]

did you take it apart?

When the bearing assembly started slipping off the spindle, it pretty much fell apart. Absolutely crushed the outer bearing race. All the little bearing fell out. See my mess here.

 

[Bobcat698]

If you have time to wait, check out Rockauto.com. . $165 each. . I have 2 brand new ones I could sell you rather than send them back to Rockauto.

Let me know, my number is 715-498-0102.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

I'm trying to plan ahead and working with a bearing company , what I need is and old unit to compair with , hopefully with seal still intacted becouse thats were the part # is , thats 2nd to just measuring to find a match , if anybodys got one laying around PM me. P. S. I was allso looking to see if I could look at one to try to adapt it to a removable rotor . Just some of the things you think about when you got a more time on hand than $$$.

I just replaced both sides in my '96. I'll post back part's after I get a chance to pull the hub a part. Should be able to get to it by this weekend if not tonight.

I am interested in a outboard rotor setup as well if I can find a machine shop to modify or turn a new set of hubs for the bearings to go into. Not sure of the clearance/ backing plate issues yet though. I'll have lots of time this winter to play with the idea. I should have my suburban repowered by then to let my dodge take a break for a while.

 

[JFaughn]

I just replaced both sides in my '96. I'll post back part's after I get a chance to pull the hub a part. Should be able to get to it by this weekend if not tonight.
I am interested in a outboard rotor setup as well if I can find a machine shop to modify or turn a new set of hubs for the bearings to go into. Not sure of the clearance/ backing plate issues yet though. I'll have lots of time this winter to play with the idea. I should have my suburban repowered by then to let my dodge take a break for a while.

I'll be watching for your post , like said if I could get my hands on the old parts I thought that I might be able to get bearings sepertly and modify the rotors so they can be taken off and turned or replaced .

 

[DKarvwnaris]

modify the rotors so they can be taken off and turned or replaced .

???????

The rotors can be removed from the hubs to be turned, you just need to press out the wheel studs that is holding them together.



After looking at the assembly this afternoon, I see no way to install outboard "floating" rotors like a front wheel drive car has without the calipers and rims being custom made. Tbe backspacing will not allow enough room for it.

I can't read the numbers on the wheel seal, the newer ones are timken. It also say in large stamped letters, "WARNING DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THIS UNIT!!!!.

I'm heading out to finish putting the truck back together now.





Edit: Truck is done. The hub assembly is a pressed fit. My puller assembly will not budge it. I will have to take it into the shop this next week to get it apart with the press. I now see why they don't sell this unit as a bearing only repair. They must use a 40 ton or larger press to assemble the hub, my only question that still remains is if there is a shim to keep preload on the bearings like a pinion shim or crush sleeve type design. This would be alot of messing around for a typical shop to perform wheel bearing service in house if they needed to be pressed into and pulled out from the hub. I will not have to worry about it for another roll of the clock or longer for this truck, but I am interested in the preload they bearings are holding on them. I also want to see if the bearings are blued, cratered or otherwise damaged. This was a preventative repair for me, but it would nice to see if I actually REALLY needed to do it or not.

With the weight I haul, there is no question, but for setting up a periodic maintenance schedule for later, I'd still like to know

 

[JFaughn]

DKarvwnaris, thats why I'm looking for some used parts to see for myself what can be done , I've rengeniered a lot of things over the yrs. and made better what could not be improved, as for example you said that the rotors were pressed onto the studs, well then make the holes a few . 001 s bigger then they are removable like everything els.

 

[DKarvwnaris]

DKarvwnaris, thats why I'm looking for some used parts to see for myself what can be done , I've rengeniered a lot of things over the yrs. and made better what could not be improved, as for example you said that the rotors were pressed onto the studs, well then make the holes a few . 001 s bigger then they are removable like everything els.

I don't think you have looked at the front ends on this trucks very throughly yet. The Rotors are on the inside of the hub. You can not install the rotors onto the hubs without having them pressed to the hubs with the lug studs. There is no means to do this without re engineering the entire hub, rotor, and spindle design. You'll need to take the backspacing for the rim into account on this, its going to be more work than a benefit. (hardly worth it for a one off truck, liability especially).

I will get mine broken down this next week. We've taken the weekend off and headed for Daytona Beach.