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front wheel bearings

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19.5 in. Alcoa single wheel

Interesting day today

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Well, looks like the left front wheel bearings are or nearly are toast. I was investigating a vibration, which turned out to be an exhaust leak (go figure :rolleyes: ) , when I discovered that there was some play in the bearings. How much play?... ... ... when I had it jacked up and pulled in/out on the top of the tire, I could feel a noticable movement. Then I took off the 4x4 lock hub to have a better look. I had a buddy pull the top of the wheel in and out while I looked at the hub and spindle. I could see maybe about 1 milimeter of movement between the hub and spindle. Also, when the wheel was moved, there was some squeaking. Not sure if that was coming from the bearing or the caliper. Didn't have time to take off the caliper too.



So, does it sould like the bearings are toast? If so, I'll just pull off both hubs and take them to the local machine shop to have the bearings replaced. Humm... . would also be a nice time to do the rotors too.



Cheers,

Sean
 
Forgot to add something... ... .



I still need to get the big arse socket to take off the spindle nut. But when I put it back together, what is the proper way to set the bearing preload and torque down the locknut?



Sean
 
They might not be bad. Take the bearings out and clean them in your favorite cleaner and then look them over. If you find pitting/rusted/bent cage/scoring/grooves. Then replace them.
 
if you dident hear growling at speed Id inspect & re preload them if they look good I think there just out of adjustment

JAK

I edited

Id spinn the rotor while tightening at around like 5 foot lbs or a lil less the play will go away than I tighten a lil bit more



its kind of a feel thing but they go a lil tighter than one might think

than put on the lock tab & the outer nut you can tighten that one pretty good like 40-50 ft lbs this will also push the inner nut in a lil because of the minute play in the threads which might amount to like . 003-. 005 morew preload so take that into acount too

than bend the tab over

JAK
 
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HHHMmmm you snuck in another question while I was posting my first answer.





install the bearings and inner lock nut. Tighten the inner nut to 50 ft. lbs To seat the bearings.



Loosen the inner lock nut. Tighten to 41-54 ft. lbs while turning the hub and rotor assy.



Then you need to back off the inner lock nut 135 to 150 degrees to set the free play.



Install the lock washer and outer lock nut. Tighten to 50 ft. lbs

The end play after final adjustment should be around 0. 001" to 0. 010"
 
Well, once again my brain wandered to far away places on the drive home today..... this is what came back :-laf



Is there an oil bath system available for the front hubs? Would this even be of any advantage? Thoughts on this?... ... ... . :rolleyes: :D



Sean
 
Is there an oil bath system available for the front hubs? Would this even be of any advantage? Thoughts on this?... ... ... .



Stop thinking so much. :D



No there is nothing like this on the market. It would be a nightmare keeping everything sealed up and not leaking.
 
Originally posted by Philip

Stop thinking so much. :D




ROFLMAO :D :D



So, front wheel bearings are happy now :cool: I talked with the PO and discovered that they'd never been replaced :eek: So, went to NAPA and got all new bearings, races and seals. After getting thoroughly covered in grease, the bearings were installed :-laf The ones I took out of the left side (the one that had the play) actually looked just fine. The right side, however was not so good. The inner bearing and race was scored pretty badly. Enough that I could catch a fingernail in the grooves. The rollers also had begun to turn a bit of a purple color. And something else that made me :eek: :eek: is that the outer locknuts on both sides were very loose and did not require much effort at all to remove them. Should I take off the 4x4 hubs and check the locknut torque after a couple of days or so?



Cheers,

Sean
 
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