Fuel Cutoff Solenoid again...

[KEENO]

Hey Gang!



I know the Fuel Solenoid has been discussed in the past but "search" is down.



Yesterday... My truck wouldn't start @ the Gym. Got out and wiggled the wire leads on the Fuel Solenoid Cutoff and she fired back up. I've worked on the connectors before but now suspect the Fuel Solenoid.



Can someone reiterate the removal & cleaning of the Solenoid once again?



Can the solenoid only particially open during operation?



It seems like I'm getting better performance since the 'No Start" & wire wiggle. It now sounds different and takes a milli-second longer to start. Definitely different than before the 'No Start'!



KEENO

 

[Turbo Don]

Keeno, I'm having simular problems



Just got back from a trip to North Carolina and I am having simular problems. After a sudden stop on the freeway with a loaded 32' gooseneck,(80mph to 0) the truck died. I then started but it kranked over more then usual, but did start. It has always started with the flick of the key. As the trip went on with fuel stops, the engine required more cranking to the point I had to use eather to get it to start and fether the throtal to keep it running.





I would be thankfull for any help.

 

[Lil' Dog]

I am also wondering if mine is not opening fully as I can have a good day of performance and the next day it just doesn't feel the same.



I had a problem with mine not shutting off, but as soon as the warm winds blew, its been fine. .



J-eh

 

[KEENO]

I'm going to remove the plunger this weekend and have a look.



I know this has been discussed before but I'm looking for more details. I have a shop manual but haven't investigated.



Related posting? Fuel Solenoid



KEENO

 

[mblair]

fuel solenoid fix

Mine was cutting out, too. I pulled the wires off the solenoid, cleaned everything with brake cleaner. I then crimped the end of the female connectors with wirecutters and put back on. That was about a month ago. It's not missed a beat since then. You might just try this first ??? Good luck, because it was frustrating.

 

[AMikonis]

Here's how

I don't think the manual tells you much. I've had mine out a few times(!) The worst thing is a normal wrench won't work on it (maybe a crow foot?) but I and some of the others have had luck bending and grinding a 15/16" wrench to clear the bracket on the back of the pump. I found the easiest way is to pop the rod from the throttle cable bracket to pump. Remove the 3 or 4 nuts and drop the throttle cable bracket out of the way. I have also been loosening the intercooler pipe and moving out of the way. Then just take the small nut off the solenoid that holds the spade connector, and take your special wrench and spin it out.



I've had metal debris on my plunger, making it stick. I used a magnet to clean out the hole, then hand pumped some fuel out and it didn't stick for a few months. They say this is indicative of the injection pump going out.



Customizing the wrench will be obvious when you try it. I used a cheap made in China wrench. If you need to see the wrench, PM me and I can email you a photo...



Andy

 

[paccool]

I did about the same as Andy is talking about. With a little patience, you can modify the wrench and get the solenoid out without pulling anything out of the way. Is a real ***** to get to. If I need to pull it again, I will remove the throttle linkage and cut off the top part that is in the way of the solenoid and then you can get to it real easy. Look at it and you will see what I'm talking about.



Be real careful when pulling the solenoid out - don't drop the plunger or the spring. I am speaking from experience here guys, I dropped the spring and thought I would never find it!

 

[Bob Beauchaine]

Turbo Don

One thing concerns me is your use of ether. When the ether hits your grid heaters you could loose your whole engine with a big bang. Both Dodge and Cummins highly recommend that you not use ether. There have been reports of these engines starting in -40 degree temps. - so if everything is right it should start. I would locate and fix the problem before the cost goes way out of hand. Good luck

Happy trails

Bob

 

[ScottB]

Ok dont laugh to hard but what would happen if we took the fuel solenoid (sp) off and just hooked up a pull handle in the cab like the old trucks and tractors had. Would that help?

 

[JPS]

DID JUST THAT

Have a trucker friend who did replace electric shut off with cable on a 3406 cat. Woked just fine!

 

[paccool]

Scott, that was exactly what I did when mine crapped out. Was on a weekend, couldn't get the part and needed to tow my trailer. Took the guts out of the solenoid and rigged up a pull cable to the shut off lever. Looked pretty hokey but did the job. I used it for a week until I got the new part. Someone else said they hooked up a choke type linkage setup and left it in place. (sorry, I can't remember who it was)



Stan

 

[Turbo Don]

Thanks Bob, I hope to check out the solinoid on Wednesday. An outfit in town has a new one for $60. I sure hope this takes care of the problem. It dose not sound like the same kind of trouble everyone else has had. I will let you all know what I find.

 

[AMikonis]

Turbo Don, Sounds like it may not be the solenoid, but you could pull the plunger out and check to see if that made a difference before you spend the money for a new one. Sounds like maybe you should check your lift pump. Just loosen the low pressure fuel line at the filter and crank 'er over. Just like checking a (mechanical) gas fuel pump. I've heard the injection pump will sometimes still pull fuel through a bad lift pump and still run, but it may be hard to start.





As far as installing a cable to shut it off, sure it would work, but it seems like a lot of these solenoids aren't working because the metal flakes are jamming them. Since the solenoid is a magnet, it attracts the metal. If that's your problem and you take it out, those metal pieces are headed right for the injectors...