Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel Cutoff Solenoid Question AND no start question

[biggy238]

First, when I installed governor springs in fall of 2006, My 96 has gotten so that the throttle has to be depressed slightly to start the truck. IT isn't as evident on a warm engine start.



The idle is set so that it meets the FSM specs, with the truck in drive with the air on, it idles around 800rpm, and around 1000 with no load.



Can something be adjusted so that this isn't a problem?





In the last month, IT has started having a fuel solenoid problem. The solenoid itself seems to be fine. It's gotten so that on the first crank of the engine, the solenoid won't kick. On the second hit, the truck will start and run. I was suspicious that the relay was at fault, but after I realized it was starting on the second try, I wanted to ask if maybe the starter contact circuit was the problem?



I'm not familiar with how the circuit is wired, so I wanted to ask if that's how it works.



Thanks

 

[Dave M]

If you think its the solenoid try wiring up or tie wrapping up the solenoid plunger. That would eliminate the solenoid and relay and circuitry.



Go to this site for schematics, troubleshooting and parts and updated starter contacts:



LarryB's Dodge starting problems solved here.

 

[biggy238]

I've already gotten to the point that I know it's the solenoid circuit. The solenoid functions fine on it's own. I got to the point that I was pulling the shut down lever up manually each start last week.



I just need a good way to trouble shoot either the relay or the supply to the relay.



The No-start and hard start actually are unrelated. The "hitting the throttle to start" started right after the gov spring install.



The no-start situation just started this month. the truck has 268K no so I immediately started trouble shooting the relay and solenoid. I removed the solenoid and checked it out. It seems to function fine.



The schematic is what I needed to see though. The brown wire feeding the Relay is where I think the problem is. Thank you.

 

[Joe G.]

Check the blue wire on the positive post of the driver's side battery. That is a fusable link. It could be loose, corroded, or broken.

 

[Dave M]

The "Pull" coil gets power from the relay and the blue fusable link when ign switch is in Start or Run position. The "Hold" coil gets power from fuse 9 in dash when ign switch is in Run position. Is it a Pull or Hold problem? Both coils are in the fuel shutdown solenoid but each is a seperate circuit.



If the Pull coil is not pulling the plunger up during cranking then look at the Pull circuit. If the Pull coil is pulling the plunger up during cranking but the "Hold" coil is not holing the plunger up when ign switch is in run position then look at the Hold circuit.

 

[GAmes]

Have you ever removed it from the truck and cleaned the plunger and bore? Is the rubberboot shot and jamming it up? I threw away the boot on mine almost 400k ago. Every now and then it starts to stick so I pull it off, clean it up, spray on some dry lube and reinstall. I've had to do that maybe 3 times since I threw away the boot.

 

[Dave M]

"GAmes" makes a good point. My truck was not starting without pulling up the plunger a few months ago. I removed the fuel solenoid and cleaned the plunger and bore with brake cleaner and lubed it with silicone spray. I haven't had any more trouble yet. Its worth a try.

 

[biggy238]

The pull in circuit... . Hold works fine.



The fusible link appears to be fine. . I looked at it when I had the brown fusible link go bye-bye. Aslo installed optima batteries and went through and fixed one cable and cleaned all the other connections.



I didn't take the solenoid appart. The rubber boot looks like it did new.



I took the solenoid off last week and laid it on the wiper cowl to watch it function with the key. It snapped so hard each time it would throw itself back off intot he engine compartment. Thats not to say it works properly with a load on it.





The reason I was asking was it seems to me like an intermittant connection problem, and I need to know which wires to look at because the relays pole aren't marked. I'm going to check it out tomorrow.









Any ideas on having to hit the throttle to start? This is even with the lever manually pulled to run, so I don't think it's fuel supply causing it.