Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel filter canister

[IdahoJim]

Ok guys, I need a little help again. On my recent trip to Nevada, the truck got hard to start. Had to cycle the lift pump a couple of times, and then I was good to go. So, I figured I had a fuel leak.
It looks like the water valve on the canister was leaking. I had a new one, but in installing that I found out one of the screw holes was stripped out. I'm going to remove the canister and try to drill and tap to the next larger size, but assuming that doesn't work, what's the best aftermarket replacement canister I can buy? I don't need more fuel flow as my truck is mostly stock as far as performance goes. Just need a decent canister for it. it would be nice if it went in the same places as the factory canister. My factory lift pump works fine....don't need anything extra there. I've read that the factory canister is no longer available?
Many thanks,
jim

 

[NIsaacs]

Maybe this will work? No clue on why it stops with the 99 model.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ffk98599/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts

Nick

 

[IdahoJim]

I noticed Geno's has a direct replacement for the 2001 model canister $172.50 + shipping. If I can't repair mine, that's how I'll go. The one you linked to is for the older models.
I still appreciate the help.
Jim

 

[NIsaacs]

Can you post a link? I can't find it, only this one.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product...fuel-filter-cannister-gg-fc98599/new-products

Thanks,

Nick

 

[IdahoJim]

Here ya go, Nick: https://www.genosgarage.com/product/dodge-ram-cummins-replacement-fuel-filter-cannister-gg-fc98599/new-products

 

[NIsaacs]

That is the same one I linked, 98.5-99, it might work for the '01 but the filter is different.

Nick

 

[IdahoJim]

No it's not. go to your link, and then go to mine. Two different setups. One is a screw-on filter, the other requires a canister. My 2001 is the canister type. The link I posted is to a replacement canister.
Now I see...you put in two different links....one to the screw-on type, the 2nd one you posted is the one I posted...a canister.
Jim

 

[NIsaacs]

Now I see...you put in two different links....one to the screw-on type, the 2nd one you posted is the one I posted...a canister.
Jim

Yes, they both only list for the 98.5-99 models but I would think they would work for the '01 in a pinch.

Nick

 

[IdahoJim]

I called Geno's tech # and the guy told me it would work fine on my truck. The reason they don't list it beyond '99 is the plumbing of the fuel lines is different. Since I have a Vulcan big line kit on mine, that won't
be an issue. It uses the same filter as my stock canister, so the fuel flow is the same. He also told me I'm the first person to call in with an issue with the '00-02 fuel canister.:- (
Jim

 

[DavidC]

What timing on this thread. My 99 just started with the hard starting. Quite a surprise when your use to a start as soon as the key is turned. I am still recovering from the 3 level neck fusion so mobility is very limited. I did poke around a little looking at the fuel canister, return tee and the line to the lift pump and did not see anything obvious. It is good to know of a replacement canister tho. Keep us informed of your out come please.

Dave

 

[IdahoJim]

After talking to the tech at Genos, and fooling around with the water valve, and mounting screws, I decided I'm going to try drilling and tapping my canister to 8-32 screws. Currently, the factory screws are 6-32.
Glad the thread is helping, Dave. I know it's helping me. The problem is that aluminum is fairly soft, and lots of bad road driving shakes things around, and after nearly 300,000 miles it's no wonder the threads go bad. Add to that the typical tap clearance so the threads are larger in major diameter than the screws. On mine the screws are .132" diameter. My #6 tap is .138", so I have .006" slop in the fit. If I could find precision screws of the correct diameter I could probably just install them without any other action. The holes in the water valve housing are .152", so to use #8 screws those holes need to be enlarged to
about .162"...the nominal size for a #8 screw is .164, but they usually make them smaller by a couple thousandths. The #8 tap is 166". A #20 drill is .161"...the next step up is to a #19 at .166". I drilled one of the holes in the old valve, and it looks like the .166" drill still leaves enough "meat" to make for a secure mounting of the valve. I won't get to the canister until tomorrow, at the earliest I'll post more when I get
done....maybe a few pics of the finished canister.
Jim

 

[NIsaacs]

This is good info, thanks. I don't need one now but ya never know. Do you think the little screws are metric? That might be why the tap v/s screws mismatch?

Nick

 

[IdahoJim]

I thought of that, but the nearest typical size is 3mm, which would be .118", which is even smaller. The next metric size up is a 3.5mm, which is somewhat uncommon. That is .137", which would be a close match, but the standard pitch in that is .6 which is a much finer thread pitch than the screws that are on there. I'm fairly sure the screws are 6-32 SAE. A metric 3.5 x .8, and an SAE 6-32 are very close in size, but
that size metric is uncommon. But, it could be either.
Jim

 

[IdahoJim]

I finally got a warm enough day to work in the shop. Pulled the fuel canister and got it set up in the mill.....that took a little doing, and what I ended up with wasn't real strong. Good thing I didn't have any heavy milling to do.

Once that was done, I used a #29 drill to drill out the old threads. I tapped the new threads without moving the table, so the threads were dead square with the hole. I needed two taps....one standard tap, and one I ground the tapered end off of so it would cut threads all the way to the bottom of each hole. On two of the holes, you can only drill 5/16" deep, or you'd drill into the housing, and have a leak. So, you only have about 8 or 10 usable threads in the holes. Here's a few pics of the new/old threads, and the finished valve attached to the canister.

The hole on the left has the new #8-32 threads.

This is a good pic showing the new threads compared to the old.

This shows all 4 holes with the new #8-32 threads.

I had to open up the mounting holes in the valve, too. The nearest size was a #19 drill .166".It seemed to leave enough "meat" around the screws to hold well. The valve now is snug and tight. I test drove, and no obvious leaks. The real test is to see if it fires right up tomorrow, or if I still have an air
leak somewhere.
Jim

 

[DavidC]

Take a look here if you still have problems. As I stated earlier mine has developed the hard cold start problem and this article leads to a ruptured internal diaphram. Not what I really need right now,
https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Dave

 

[IdahoJim]

Thanks, Dave. I just put in a rebuilt injector pump, from Blue Chip Diesel, in October. I doubt that's my problem. I'm going to run down all the simpler stuff before I worry about the pump.
Jim