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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter change on 2002

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) J Hook to the wastegate

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What Dana in my truck?

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Hey there!! I have a 2002 24V CTD 4x4 that I want to change the fuel filter on. I also have an 04. 5 that I change on my own all the time. Is there any difference in procedures from the 2002-2004?? My fule filters from Genos say they are for both model years... Thanks!!
 
Not that I'm aware of, its really straight forward. If there is a difference, its alright I'm sure you can figure it out. I don't know if you have the to bleed the injector lines on your CR but I always have to when I change filters on my 24v.

Sean
 
On the CR motors you don't have to bleed anything. And you definetly don't want to crack any injecotr lines on a CR motor. Very Bad!!
 
Well, , not too sure I am real up to cracking any injector lines on the 02! I figured that migh be what happens. I was hoping it was just easy like on the 04. I guess to the dealer it goes!!!
 
You can do it yourself. I haven't had to crack the injector line on the ones I have done. Just cycle the pump a few times and start it.
 
I changed my fuel filter many times. Never had to bleed any lines or prime anything. Maybe an extra crank or something, but other than that i switched it and fired right up.
 
Never bled or cracked anything. You can definately do it yourself, few minutes only. I just bump the started few times, and it starts fine.
 
Drain cannister using valve. Catch drain fuel from the clear tubing attached to the cannister. Remove old filter. Install new filter and tighten lid but don't overtighten. Bump starter but do not start engine. Fuel pump will run for about 30 seconds. Repeat maybe 2-3 times to ensure cannister is filled and air is purged from the system. Attempt to start engine. Maybe it will start right up and be fine. It might die and not restart. If it won't restart... put the pedal to the floor and crank for up to 15-20 seconds straight without letting up. It will start, run rough for a second or two the clear right up. Don't bother cracking injector lines. You don't have to unless all else fails and this procedure don't work. My 99 was the worst vehicle in the world for a fuel filter change and this always worked for me.



Before attempting a 2nd 20 second crank interval (if even necessary)... allow the starter to cool for 15 minutes or so. This won't hurt anything as long as you don't crank the starter forever and ever without allowing it to cool. 20 seconds won't harm it at all.
 
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Despite priming the filter housing 2, 3, 4 and more times, I've never done a fuel filter changeout without getting enough air into the system to have the engine fire and then die. Repeated cranking (not too long at a time - think starter motor temps) eventually gets it going, but I just figure on having to do it now.



My point - I wouldn't start a fuel filter change if there's any doubt about the condition/charge level of the batteries.



And, yes, my lift pump's fine - 16+ PSIG pre and post filter at idle.



Rusty
 
I change the Fuel filter in my 01 every 4000 miles and do nothing more then bump the starter and let the pump run for 20-30 sec's then fire the truck up.



Never had a proplem with air in the lines, the truck just turned 95K miles,thats 22/23 filter changes with no air issue. :cool:
 
RustyJC said:
Despite priming the filter housing 2, 3, 4 and more times, I've never done a fuel filter changeout without getting enough air into the system to have the engine fire and then die. Repeated cranking (not too long at a time - think starter motor temps) eventually gets it going, but I just figure on having to do it now.



My point - I wouldn't start a fuel filter change if there's any doubt about the condition/charge level of the batteries.



And, yes, my lift pump's fine - 16+ PSIG pre and post filter at idle.



Rusty



I have to do the exact same thing everytime too! #@$%! :mad:
 
I have never been able to just start the engine after changing the fuel filter. No matter how many times I cycle the lift pump the engine will start, run for a second, and then die. I started cracking the line from the filter housing to the VP-44 at the IP it self and now the engine starts up every time. It makes sense when you think about it. Just running the lift pump compresses the air trapped in the filter housing but doesn't allow it to escape. Try it next time while watching your fuel pressure gage.
 
Any air trapped in the system should be easily pushed back into the tank. The banjo bolt at the VP44 inlet has a 14psi ball check valve and a tiny hole in it which routes the air out of the system. Cummins designed the system to self purge... very similar to the ISC 8. 3L.



Now I understand this doesn't always happen as planned. Mine was awful about not starting. One time... it fired without so much as a cough. But every other time it was a nightmare.
 
Ncostello said:
Any air trapped in the system should be easily pushed back into the tank. The banjo bolt at the VP44 inlet has a 14psi ball check valve and a tiny hole in it which routes the air out of the system. Cummins designed the system to self purge... very similar to the ISC 8. 3L.



Now I understand this doesn't always happen as planned. Mine was awful about not starting. One time... it fired without so much as a cough. But every other time it was a nightmare.



That's what I always thought too. I was speaking with a Cummins representative about this and he assured me that the relief valve you are speaking of is after the VP's internal low pressure pump. In other words the VP's internal low pressure pump is between the lift pump and the 14 psi relief valve. The reason I was asking about it was because I couldn't understand why people insist on having 15 psi and above for lift pump pressure when the relief valve lifts at 14 psi. According to him above 14 psi on the low side of the VP the excess fuel is returned to the tank. I am by no means an expert on this subject, I am simply passing on info I obtained.
 
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