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Fuel Filter change with additive

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I'm ready to change my first fuel filter. I've read double digit posts on this. Most say put some fuel back in the canister before putting it all back together.

Seems this would be unfiltered fuel going right to the injectors on start-up. And, who has some extra fuel sitting around?

What about pouring full strength diesel fuel additive in the canister, instead? Right now I'm using LE DCI+.

Any reasons not to do this??

thanks... .

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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off,level truck with 2" tuff country kit, Bilsteins at the corners, Di Pricol egt and boost, Mag-hytec "original flavor" transmission pan and Dana 70 diff. cover, Westin Step Bars, Custom Plate 24V-DSL
 
When I put it all back together I don't prefill the cannister,just put in dry. I bump the starter a couple of times to let the lift pump fillup the cannister. While the lift pump is running,I'll open the drain valve to watch the fuel run out,then light off the engine. That's the easiest way to get it restarted that I know of.

As far as only having fuel additive on the cannister... I'm not sure the engine will light off or run on that concentrated amount of non-diesel. Probably hiccup or stumble til it gets normal fuel flowing into the combustion chamber.

-Mike
 
Had a friend of mine who used to do what you said and it worked OK for him. Maybe a combination off additive and bumping the starter would be good.

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20yr Mopar Parts Manager,"June of 2000" 2001 quad cab,2wd,auto,Camper pkg,354 LSD rear axle,Raven Magnum 8' cap. Mag Hitech trans pan. Isspro gauges pyro,trans and boost Apillar mount. Amsoil air filter. No muff!EZ Edge!!!! N. R. A. member
 
Sounds like a very BAD, BAD, BAD idea! It would interest me however to get a report from you if you decide to do this. What will fail first? Will it be some component of the fuel filter dissolving O-rings in the injection pump, copper washers or some other small component not designed to be immersed in something other than diesel fuel? Remember, most diesel fuel additives are formulated to be diluted in diesel at a ratio of 1:100 up to 1:1000 or more. I have no knowledge of what will actually happen but my advice to you is to follow directions when using chemicals. Why take the chance of wrecking a $4000? fuel system in a $35,000 truck?

BTW: I use a small clean fuel storage container to put a quart of diesel into when I do my normal fueling and use that to fill the filter. Any extra fuel is dumped into the tank.

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3600 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
111,000 miles and counting.
 
When I changed my fuel filter I used an old A/C line that I had from a set of gauges that I used to do A/C work when I worked as a mechanic to bleed air from system.
The line is available from any tool man, just has to be the old style R-12. One end of the hose has a stem inside to depress the schrader valve and the other end goes into a plastic container to catch the diesel fuel.
I changed out the filter, lubed the gasket and put everything together, then hook up the schrader end to the test port at the injector pump, be sure that it is screwed on all of the way and the scrader valve should be open, bump the engine over to start the lift pump working and have the other end in a clear plastic container to catch the diesel fuel.
When fuel only... no air came out of the line, I unscrew the connection at the test port on the injector pump, while lift pump is running, ensuring that no air is in system.
When I start for the first time after fuel filter change, 1/2 throttle until it runs smooth, usually less than 30 seconds.
Hope this helps,
Steve
01. 5 ETH/DEE QC LB


[This message has been edited by Stevee (edited 04-22-2001). ]
 
I use marvel mystery oil, but B. G. Smith has a very good option. I have my fuel pressure gauge sending units hooked up there but I think I can modifiy this idea by finding a Y fitting and hook up the sending unit on one and pet cock valve on the other side. This way I will be able to put a hose on valve end and bump starter so lift pump will run until all air is purged and then close pet cock. Thanks for the idea B. G.
Ron

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1999, 3500, 6x6, slt, auto, 3. 55, Qd cab, ISB cummins, Isspro transmission temp, EGT, Boost gauges on A-piler, fuel prssure gauge, DD stage 1, modified banjo bolts, K&N 0880 with prefilter, triple trailing 2001 26RKSS Tahoe 5th wheel, 1999 120hp 1800 bayliner. 20,000 lbs GCW. Waiting for DD TTPM to be delivered 4-24-01.
 
Why don't you use your manuel fuel pump to pump the filter full before you start the engine. On my 89 I would screw the filter back on until it made contact and then backed off a 1/4 trun and then used the lever on the side of thr fuel pump untill fuel ran out. tighten filter, started engine an no problem. I have not changed the filter on my 97 yet but it looks like you can do the same thing or screw it tight and open the vent on top of the filter. That way you don't have to worry about getting dirt in the clean fuel. Any prosor con ondoing that.
Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #
 
Sam, you and I are lucky we have manual pumps on our 12 valve rigs. I just open the bleed screw and pump it full by hand, no problem.
 
#ad


Thanks for the feedback.

LandShark..... you sent chills down my spine... #ad
You're absolutely right.....

Some times I wonder if my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a bad example. #ad




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White 2001. 5 2500 ST, SWB, 4X4,QC, AUTO, 4. 10's, LSD, 285/75/16 On Weld Outbacks, PIAA 510's, Line-x, Tinted glass, Redline 85+, Blow-by-bye, RE-0880 & 25-0880,muffler fell off,level truck with 2" tuff country kit, Bilsteins at the corners, Di Pricol egt and boost, Mag-hytec "original flavor" transmission pan and Dana 70 diff. cover, Westin Step Bars, Custom Plate 24V-DSL
 
My filter is a little different than yours but I put it on dry. I installed a valve in the center test port on top of the filter with a 1/4" hose barb in it, I hook up a piece of 1/4" clear vinyle tubing to the valve with a bulb from an outboard engine fuel line on the other end, about three pumps and I have clear diesel, I let it drain back until the diesel is just above the valve, close the valve and I'm gone. I plug the loose end of the tubing on the other end of the bulb and toss it into my tool box for next time. bg

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White 99 3500, QC, 3:55, auto. most options except leather, Line-X bed liner, fiberglass running boards Rancho 9000s, bug shield and window vents, black vented 5th wheel tailgate, 110 gal. aux. fuel tank.
 
NAPA part #9600 (Diesel Fuel Conditioner) worked just fine to fill the new filter on my pickup... no problems and it fires up fine after bumping the starter.

Stuff that could start another Urban Legend #ad


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1999 24V 2500 QC HD,5 Spd, Luverne Steps, Predator Topper
1995 Impala SS, Dark Cherry Metallic
1995 Dutchmen 26 foot travel trailer (the "excuse" for the diesel!!)
1997 Honda Shadow ACE 1100
(Too Many Toys:D)
 
Pour the fuel in the cannister before you put the filter in. It will go through the filter. I have not added fuel and it takes at least 20 tries to start the engine... and yes I slightly crank it several times to run the fuel pump. By the way, the manual says to also put fuel in the filter.
 
changing fuel filters on a 2001 is as easy as it gets. It'll take longer to get ready to do the job than actually doing it. Once you've done it, you can do it in about 5 minutes - honest!

Just Do Not try and loosen it by the tempting square socket insert on the plastic top... It takes I think a 1 1/8 socket. I bought a small gallon fuel tank that I keep about 1/2 gallon of fresh fuel in - simple to add to new filter. I then add rest to tank and try to remember to take it along to put more in for the next time... .
 
I don't know if I'm just lucky, or not. I just changed my fuel filter for the second time, with no problems. The first time I removed the filter, holding the filter just over the case to let it drain. Put the new filter in (dry) and bumped the starter waited for the lift pump "on" time then bumped the starter again and waited for the second lift pump "on" time, started the truck with no problems. Today after the second filter change I only bumped the starter once, waiting for one lift pump "on" time and then started the truck with no problems. I plan on doing it this way in the future, unless I run into problems. I do carry a 1 gal container of fuel, just in case.

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2001 Patriot Blue DRW lmslip ETH DEE. Xmsn/Dif temp, Boost/EGT, Xmsn Filter, MagHytec diff w/synthetic. 9. 5', 91 Sunline camper (Home). GVW 10800. 5800 miles mpg @ 60 mph 15 (& climbing) around town mpg 13-14. Gauge readings @60 mph I 10 Fla, 70 degrees outside temp. Boost-8 , EGT 750, Xmsn-175, Diff-145. (Diff runs 25-40 degrees cooler than Xmsn depending on outside air temp.
 
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