Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter Change

[Mak]

I realize that this question has probably been asked a thousand times or more..... but, I couldn't find it anywhere so here it is. I have an '02 with 22k on it and need to change the fuel filter. I have never done it so if you decide to answer, treat your answer like you were talking to your dog or the kid next door. Don't leave anything out. I know(?) it's probably simple, but so is brain surgery if you know how. Thanks in advance.

 

[swampfox]

Unscrew filter cover using a 1 1/8 socket or box wrench. withdraw the cover... filter is attached to the cover

Unsnap filter from cover... it just "pops" off.

open water drain lever, drain remaining fuel from filter housing

Close drain.

check (bottom of filter housing) water sensing unit for rust, etc.

clean (wipe off)( use LINT FREE cloth) if necessary... . probably won't be necessary

take new filter and "snap" it to cover.

At this point there are two ways to go.

1. fill filter housing about 1/2 full of fuel and install filter. this brings the fuel to the top of the housing.

2. Some will not allow unfiltered fuel in the fuel system so they put the filter in dry and use the lift pump to fill the filter and housing



regardless of which method you use, next tighten down the filter housing cap to 25# torque.

get in the truck and turn the key to the "on position for about 30 sec. then "bump" the starter... . just so it "kicks over" but does not start the truck.

do this twice

Start the truck normally

it may run rough for a minute or two but it will smooth out.

 

[Billy Diesel]

Everytime I change the filter, it will die on the first attempt to start it back up. I just bump the starter one more time, and then start it up again. The first time it happened it did not leave a warm-fuzzy-feeling. Now it's normal. Just don't worry too much if it happens to you.

 

[InThinAir]

With Pictures

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/00fuel_filter.htm





The other best site out there!!!





---Doug

 

[slavallee]

I followed the whole "bump the starter" routine on my first filter change and ended up having to bleed injector lines. It may work for 90% or more of us, but now I always have a little can of #2(as clean as I can possibly ensure) and manually fill the filter housing. I also let the LP cycle about 5 times with the housing cap on but not tight(to let any air escape) then tighten it and cycle about 5 more times. Works for me.



Or just change the filter alone without purging if the bowl doesn't look dirty.



-Scott

 

[Mak]

Filter Change

Thanks to all... . The only question left for me would be: Torqueing... . I have an old torque wrench with the pointer that stays as the wrench bends. I don't think I can read 25#s on it. Would snug do with a 1/2 inch ratchet? (about eight inches) Other than that, it looks like a go for me... . thanks again.

 

[Billy Diesel]

The first time I changed mine, I thought I was going to break the plastic cover trying to unscrew the thing! When I went to tighten it, I just snugged it up, and then gave it a bit more. It ins't as tight as factory, but it doesn't leak either. I was using a 1/2" ratchet too.

 

[Phil Stuart]

Mak,



Be careful when screwing the plastic cover back on, it's easy to cross thread it. All I do is make sure the "O" ring is lubed and just snug the cover down about 1/2 turn after the cover "O" ring makes contact with the housing. Never had any leaks yet.



Phil

 

[Tomscreek]

Here's a shortcut that may save you some time.

Don't drain the housing if you don't have to. If you've been getting clean fuel you won't have to. After carefully pulling the cap up with the filter attached, shine a flashlight or good trouble light down into the canister and if it looks clean then just pop a new filter (Napa Gold, $12. 00) onto the cap and slowly drop into canister. This way you'll never have a start up problem.

 

[Ncostello]

In my opinion... changing the filter is the critical time when getting some crud going towards the VP44 injection pump is most likely. I always approached filter changes with utmost care and cleanliness. When the old filter is removed... any buildup could be knocked off or disrupted and then lodge in the bottom of the canister. When you pop in the new filter the fuel that gets forced into the "clean side of the filter" would be contaminated and will arrive at the VP in short order.



Yes it may start and perhaps it wont hurt anything if your always lucky. But if you've ever looked real close at the spray holes in the injectors... you wouldn't want anything of any micron size getting to them. Its most likely the high injection pressure and the design of the injectors will pulverize particles and pass them. But maybe not. Its the things you don't see with the naked eye which could hurt you. 10 micron is the filter rating... 100 micron is the width of a human hair isn't it? How you gonna tell if liquid diesel is loaded with 20 micron particles by looking?



Thats just my opinion.

 

[Phil Stuart]

Ditto to what Neil said.



Cleanliness is of utmost importance here.



I always clean the bowl out of any leftover fuel and clean the WIF probes too



Phil

 

[JHutson]

I HAD A CERTIFIED CUMMINS REP SHOW ME HOW TO DO IT AND HE SAID THAT IT WAS VERY VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU DON'T LET ANY FUEL GET ON THE "O" RING HE SAID SOMETHING ABOUT MAKING IT SWELL. ANYBODY HEARD OF THIS? I WOULD THINK IT WOULD HELP IT SEAT LIKE A OIL FILTER GASKET.

 

[Bob4x4]

Actually you are supposed to lube the o-ring with fresh fuel to lube before installing.



If you are worried about cracking the plastic cover buy one of the new billet covers from Lonnie in the classifieds or give me a shout for advise



Bob

 

[WTBurke]

25 Ft Lbs ?

Guys we are talking only 15 psi in this canister follow the Cummins advice and only do "hand-tight" I also use a bit of quality grease on the o-ring just to prevent galling the rubber surface. Torquing this cap is just silly. Watching the "bump" time on pre-start IS the most critical. You don't CRANK-IT you just bump it and listen for the LP to work 30 seconds after you let up on the key. This is a very "quick cadence" and you fingers must be quick... Do this several times and listen to your LP sing. If your LP is healthy it will puke all the air out of the high pressure delivery system. It's a finesse thang.

Heck... . I'm left-handed and Irish... . if I can do it with out error anybody can.



William