Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter Housing?

[BudW]

I have a question that I hope can be answered, for those who know about 24v's.



I have a ’97 (12v) which appears to use the same style fuel filter housing as what the early 24v use (remove the nut, lower the can, etc. ). The only thing easy about doing it is draining the fuel and cleaning the can. Overall this can be difficult to do without getting fuel all over yourself, truck, etc. , when installing it back on (with fuel inside the can). I know the Lift Pump will prime the filter when the job is done, but we (I) don’t have that luxury of an electric LP, and have to prime it manually (on our 12v’s).



Getting to my question: it looks like the fuel filter housing looks the same on ’97-98 12v’s and on ‘98. 5-99 24v’s. Can you take one of the newer “lid on top” fuel filter housings (’00 and up) and convert it to an older 24v, or even to my 12v? I think I can get the parts and modify/make the lines, but what will I need to get it done, and will the effort be worth it?



Any information, both good and/or bad, would be much appreciated.



On a different note: Changing the fuel filter on my old ’94, is not something I want to describe here, for all of the “#$@%’s” that would be present.



Thank you for your replies,

Bud

 

[Ncostello]

I know what your talking about... I felt the same way and looked into this for my 99. It didn't look too hard for my 99 if I just had all the parts. Problem was... I couldn't find them used as not many people get rid of their fuel filters.



I spent an afternoon looking at a new 02 truck on the lot to see what I needed. The physical install looked simple. I would need the line from the canister to my injector pump and the canister itself. It also appeared my WIF sensor would plug into the new canister. But the heater had a different plug so I would have to source an adapter plug.



The kicker was the price. Mopar wanted vast sums of currency for all this as the parts were sold individually. I later decided to save money, do a better job, and make life easier by going with a Stanadyne filter setup mounted along the frame with WIF and heaters as optional accessories with the filter head.



You might consider a Stanadyne FM100 head and one of their filters. Or Racor makes nice units as well. Both can easily be mounted in your stock location with some minor fuel line modifications. For a 24V truck, Stanadyne makes a head with the metric ports so the banjo fittings will go right on.



These units will have all the features of the OEM filters. Plus you can go with larger capacity filters and better micron ratings if you wish. Just some food for thought.