Fuel Filter "issue"

[TGriffith]

I changed my fuel filter today and have a problem getting the top to thread back on.



I ended up using a Mopar filter (neither Car Quest nor Napa had filters in stock, very odd) anyway I attached the new filter to the top put it back in and can't seem to get the top to thread on?

It looks like it's aligned/fitting correctly and I pushed down on the top pretty hard but no luck. Any thoughts? it fits correctly without the bottom seal on the filter (threads right on) but I'm pretty sure I need that seal.

 

[silverram03]

You did install it with the hole side down and with it firmly seated to the cap.

Oh yeah did you leave the old O-ring on the cap as well as the new one?

Greg

 

[TGriffith]

You did install it with the hole side down and with it firmly seated to the cap.

Oh yeah did you leave the old O-ring on the cap as well as the new one?

Greg

Yup, hole side down. I did R&R the O ring on the cover and the filter is fitting nicely in the cap, that what's so confusing... .



if I remove the gasket/seal from the hole side it fits fine but I'm sure that's needed. I just can't seem to push it down enough for the threads to start.

 

[RankRam]

Did the lid make a snap sound when you put the filter on it? The filter will connect to the lid without being on all the way.



I remember the first time I installed one of these types of filters, I just pushed it on and I had the same problem you are having.

 

[DZLFREK]

SilverRam03,



New to the diesel market. I'm going to change my fuel filter at 10000 miles (about 1500 miles from now). Are you suppose to leave both O-rings on, or only one O-ring? The filter also suppose to "click" in place?

Any layman 1-2-3 instructions would be benificial. Mr. TGriffith could probably use any and all help as well. Thanks!!

 

[rbattelle]

The filter retention in the cap is fairly obvious when you look at it. There's a series of small plastic retaining clips with barbs on them that retain the filter. Just push the filter into the cap fully until it snaps into place.

As always, only ONE o-ring is required. If you try to use both, it will leak.

The owners manual should have easy-to-follow filter changing instructions.

1. Open the drain valve until no more fuel comes out.
2. Close the drain valve.
3. Using a 1-1/8" socket, unscrew the filter head.
4. Pull up on the head to remove it. The filter has to slide off the center post inside the canister, so pull hard.
5. Pull the old filter off the underside of the cap. The easiest way to do this is to pull with a slight twisting motion, like how you remove the cap from a can of spray paint.
6. Remove the o-ring.
7. Resist the urge to try to clean out the inside of the canister. If you can't resist, then at least use lint free cloths!
8. Install the new o-ring to the cap.
9. Apply some clean engine oil to the new o-ring.
10. Press the new filter into the cap. Do this similar to the way you'd put the cap back on a can of spray paint. The open side of the filter must be pointing away from the cap. It will snap into place.
11. I like to put a little engine oil or fuel around the lip at the bottom of the filter to help it slide along the center post. This isn't strictly necessary.
12. Screw the cap on by hand (to ensure you're not cross threading it).
13. Torque specification is 25 ft*lb, but I normally just snug it up.

To prime the system on pre in-tank lift pump trucks, bump the starter but don't start the engine. This causes the lift pump to operate for 25 seconds. I'd do this 2 or 3 times before starting it.

To prime the system on post in-tank lift pump trucks, just turn the key to run for 25 seconds or so. From what I've read, the in-tank pumps will run for 25 seconds when the key is turned to run without the need to bump the starter. Do this 2 or 3 times.

Start the engine, check for leaks. Piece of cake.

Ryan

 

[TGriffith]

SilverRam03,



New to the diesel market. I'm going to change my fuel filter at 10000 miles (about 1500 miles from now). Are you suppose to leave both O-rings on, or only one O-ring? The filter also suppose to "click" in place?

Any layman 1-2-3 instructions would be benificial. Mr. TGriffith could probably use any and all help as well. Thanks!!

The O Ring gets removed and replaced when you do the filter, on the bottom of the filter itself has a "nipple" that I believe has to stay on (although it is removable). I'm going to double check tomorrow if it clicked into the cap correctly. Actually the Mopar filter came with step by step instructions (as well as there are some posted on the forum) and really it's a very simple process that's what's so frustrating about my problem.

 

[Pawpaw]

if I remove the gasket/seal from the hole side it fits fine but I'm sure that's needed. I just can't seem to push it down enough for the threads to start.

This is the part I don't understand. What "gasket/seal" are you talking about?



The first time I replaced my filter it was a Mopar part. After that, they've all been Fleetguard brand from my local Cummins place. I've never seen a "gasket/seal" on the open end of any of the filters. That includes the last change which was my first time using the new 7 micron filter.



Look at the top of your filter, where it snaps on the retainers in the cap. Is the rubber thick to the point that it almost fills the retainers from cap to barb? If so, that's the 10 micron filter. The 7 micron filter is much thinner in that area and there is lots of slop between the cap & barbs.



Bob

 

[silverram03]

Per service manual:



REMOVAL

Refer to maintenance schedules in this manual for

recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.

Draining water from fuel filter/water separa-

tor housing:

The housing drain valve (Fig. 3) or (Fig. 4) serves

two purposes. One is to partially drain filter hous-

ing of excess water. The other is to completely drain

housing for fuel filter, drain valve, heater element, ,

water-in-fuel sensor replacement or transfer pump

replacement.

The filter housing should be partially drained

whenever water-in-fuel warning lamp remains illumi-

nated. (Note that lamp will be illuminated for

approximately two seconds when ignition key is ini-

tially placed in ON position for a bulb check).

(1) A drain hose (Fig. 3) or (Fig. 4) is located at

bottom of drain valve. Place drain pan under drain.

(2) With engine not running, rotate drain valve

handle rearward to OPEN (DRAIN) position. Hold

drain valve open until all water and contaminants

have been removed and clean fuel exits.

(3) If drain valve, fuel heater element or Water-In-

Fuel (WIF) sensor is being replaced, drain housing

completely. Dispose of mixture in drain pan according

to applicable regulations.

(4) After draining operation, push valve handle

forward to CLOSE position.

(5) Fuel Filter Replacement: The fuel filter is

located inside of the fuel filter housing.

(a) Clean all debris from around canister.

(b) Remove filter lid (Fig. 5) using a socket.

Attach socket to large hex on top of lid (Fig. 5).

Rotate counter-clockwise for removal. Remove

o-ring.

(c) Remove filter element by twisting element

sideways from filter lid.

(a) Remove fuel filter. See previous steps.



INSTALLATION

Refer to maintenance schedules for recommended

fuel filter replacement intervals.

(1) Thoroughly clean inside of filter housing, filter

cap and all related components.

(2) Fuel Filter:

(a) The engine has a self-priming low-pres-

sure fuel system. Refer to Standard Proce-

dures-Fuel System Priming.

(b) Install new o-ring to canister lid and lubri-

cate o-ring with 30W oil



STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM

PRIMING

A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the

fuel system when fuel system components on the

supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or

replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using

the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump.

Servicing or replacing fuel system components usu-

ally will not require fuel system priming.

The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When

the key is first turned on (without cranking engine),

the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and

then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and

then disengaged without allowing the engine to start.

The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and

the engine stops running.

(1) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly

release key to ON position before engine starts. This

will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25

seconds.

(2) If the engine does not start after 25 seconds,

turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until engine

starts.

(3) Fuel system priming is now completed.

(4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not

start, proceed to following steps. When engine does

start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a

few minutes. This is a normal condition.



Hope this helps some of you guys out there

Greg

 

[Cal Brewin]

I changed my fuel filter today and have a problem getting the top to thread back on.



I ended up using a Mopar filter (neither Car Quest nor Napa had filters in stock, very odd) anyway I attached the new filter to the top put it back in and can't seem to get the top to thread on?

It looks like it's aligned/fitting correctly and I pushed down on the top pretty hard but no luck. Any thoughts? it fits correctly without the bottom seal on the filter (threads right on) but I'm pretty sure I need that seal.

I've never had a problem installing mine... the description of a "bottom seal" or "nipple" confuses me as I have never had one with that description. Mopar, Fleetguard, and now Wix, just a hole in the bottom of the filter. Here is the Mopar # for the 7 micron, is this the filter they sold you? 68001914AA

 

[TGriffith]

This is the part I don't understand. What "gasket/seal" are you talking about?



The first time I replaced my filter it was a Mopar part. After that, they've all been Fleetguard brand from my local Cummins place. I've never seen a "gasket/seal" on the open end of any of the filters. That includes the last change which was my first time using the new 7 micron filter.



Look at the top of your filter, where it snaps on the retainers in the cap. Is the rubber thick to the point that it almost fills the retainers from cap to barb? If so, that's the 10 micron filter. The 7 micron filter is much thinner in that area and there is lots of slop between the cap & barbs.



Bob

The top of the Mopar filter is flat (no hole) and snaps into the fingers on the cap. I just looked at mine and it is seated tight in the cover. the seal I'm talking about is on the hole on the bottom, it's basically a rubber grommet, this picture shows what I'm talking about FLEETGUARD - FUEL FILTER ('03-'07 5. 9L DODGE) (PREMIUM)-Dodge Cummins and Ford Power Stroke Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage

with that piece in I haven't been able to get the threads to grab, if I remove it no problem screwing the cap on...

 

[TGriffith]

I've never had a problem installing mine... the description of a "bottom seal" or "nipple" confuses me as I have never had one with that description. Mopar, Fleetguard, and now Wix, just a hole in the bottom of the filter. Here is the Mopar # for the 7 micron, is this the filter they sold you? 68001914AA

I may be using the wrong term, rubber grommet may be more accurate.

here's a pic that shows what I'm talking about

FLEETGUARD - FUEL FILTER ('03-'07 5. 9L DODGE) (PREMIUM)-Dodge Cummins and Ford Power Stroke Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage



the filter part number is 68001914AB, dealer said this replaced the 68001914AA

 

[Pawpaw]

The top of the Mopar filter is flat (no hole) and snaps into the fingers on the cap. I just looked at mine and it is seated tight in the cover. the seal I'm talking about is on the hole on the bottom, it's basically a rubber grommet, this picture shows what I'm talking about FLEETGUARD - FUEL FILTER ('03-'07 5. 9L DODGE) (PREMIUM)-Dodge Cummins and Ford Power Stroke Diesel Truck Accessories - Geno's Garage

with that piece in I haven't been able to get the threads to grab, if I remove it no problem screwing the cap on...

That picture, like it says, is the premium (7 micron) filter with the thin rubber (seems more like plastic) at the top and bottom.



I guess I never noticed that piece came off, but I've never had any trouble getting my cap to thread back on.



One point which may or may not help. Do you have the filter drain valve open when you install the filter? I suppose it is possible that if it's closed, you could be fighting air pressure. I always leave mine open until after I have the cap screwed down tight (snug, really). I don't have any REAL reason for doing it that way, it's just the way I like to do it.



Bob

 

[silverram03]

TGriffith: Where are you located? Maybe someone close could help you out?

 

[TGriffith]

That picture, like it says, is the premium (7 micron) filter with the thin rubber (seems more like plastic) at the top and bottom.



I guess I never noticed that piece came off, but I've never had any trouble getting my cap to thread back on.



One point which may or may not help. Do you have the filter drain valve open when you install the filter? I suppose it is possible that if it's closed, you could be fighting air pressure. I always leave mine open until after I have the cap screwed down tight (snug, really). I don't have any REAL reason for doing it that way, it's just the way I like to do it.



Bob

my drain valve is open.

on the Mopar filter the top is flat plastic (no hole) and on the bottom the hole has the grommet like what the Fleetguard shows in the pic.



This just doesn't make any sense, I changed the fuel filter in my 2nd Gen 20 times and while it's a different beast I've never had an issue...



thanks to everyone for all of the feedback, the TDR community is awesome.

I'll keep messing with it, it's got to fit.



Terry

 

[InfernoB]

I'm sure you checked this. Is the grommet in the old filter, or did it somehow stay in the bowl.

Do you have another new filter to try? Is the old and new filter the same height?

 

[TGriffith]

TGriffith: Where are you located? Maybe someone close could help you out?

Glen Allen VA, just outside of Richmond.

my cell number is 804-306-4156

 

[TGriffith]

I'm sure you checked this. Is the grommet in the old filter, or did it somehow stay in the bowl.

Do you have another new filter to try? Is the old and new filter the same height?

I've looked and the old grommet (or part of it) not in there. I haven't compared it to the old filter other than eyeballing it, but I will put them side by side.



Here are 2 photo's that show what I've got



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[FYarcho]

Well If you havn't allready like Inferno said. Make sure that the old gromet from the old filter isn't still inside the housing. Sounds like there is something inside the housing holding you up and that would also be my best guess.

 

[TGriffith]

I'm sure you checked this. Is the grommet in the old filter, or did it somehow stay in the bowl.
Do you have another new filter to try? Is the old and new filter the same height?

the old filter is is a little shorter by 1/8 inch, maybe a touch less.
which explains why when I remove the grommet the cap screws in fine.

the other thing I just notice is that the old filter did not click into the finger on the cap but actually
set farther into the cap. The new filter clips into the fingers and I loose about an 1/8 because of it.