Fuel Filter

[hv2hunt]

Just looking for any tips or tricks that might be out there for changing the fuel filter on dad's 12v'r?

 

[Joe G.]

What year? It makes a difference since the power brake system changed.

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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

[hv2hunt]

it's a 98

 

[Joe G.]

If your filter is the canister type instead of a spinon you will have to ask someone else.

If it's a spinon: There are a couple of relays on the firewall above the filter that are in the way. Remove the screw that fastens them to the firewall and use a piece of wire to pull and hold them out of the way. Use a magnetic screwdriver so you won't drop the little screw. Unfasten the connector to the water in fuel sensor. I use a little screwdriver to pry the clip off. Be careful or you will stab yourself and cuss. Other folks like to use a filter strap wrench, but I think that's a PITA. I use a large screwdriver as a chisel on the upper rim of the filter and hammer on it to unscrew the filter. When it comes loose you will have to reach from the front and figure out the path thru all that mess to remove the filter. Check to see that the gasket is not still on the filter bracket. Also check to see that the center post is tight. If it's not an allen wrench is required to tighten it. I don't remember the size. When you put the filter back on moisten the gasket with fuel. DON'T fill the filter with fuel because that allows some unfiltered fuel to get to the injector pump. Not good. Tighten the filter with your bare hands. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the screw on the output line from the filter to the injector pump. There is a rubber button on the lift pump. A long arm helps here. Pump the filter fill of fuel until clear fuel comes out of the loose output line screw. Tighten the screw and replace the relays. Reconnect the WIF sensor and you are done.

[This message has been edited by Joe G. (edited 03-26-2001). ]

 

[rich m]

Originally posted by Joe G. :
What year? It makes a difference since the power brake system changed.

hv2hunt
Member
Posts: 5
From:Artesia, CA, USA
Registered: Jan 2001
posted 03-26-2001 10:26 PM
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it's a 98

OK--I bet,then, that your brakes have 3 steel hardlines coming from the master cylinder, and a veritable birdcage as it all goes in and out of some horrendous little valve assembly.
I also suspect that you have the canister type of filter, way towards the back of the block, near the firewall.

There's a big central nut on top of the filter header. it doesn't come off, but it does hold the canister on. (the can is made with a boltstud that rises from the bottom of the can)

Find the yellow valve lever. At the lower end of its shaft is the actual valve and the little hose that is for drainage of the canister. Get an old soda bottle or a jar to catch the contents, and turn the drainvalve open. Once it's empty, close it again. Then, loosen that big nut we talked about, and also, rotate the canister off its locks (kind of like a push&turn medicine vial)
once unlocked, and de-nutted, it will come off in your hand. You can then snake it out by bringing it forward towards the battery until you find a clear tunnel.
YOur new filter will have 3 O-rings, one about 3/4", one the same diameter as the cannister and the other about 3/8" (this may be a lie, due to time. . I've had a Primeloc for about 1-1/2 years now). Find their corresponding old ones on the old assembly and replace them all,being careful not to nick any of them, as they are the only separation between clean and dirty fuel. Oil them slightly with Diesel, so that they will seat properly. Emplace the new filter element into the can. Once that's all assembled, if you can snake it back into position upright without spilling your pre-prime fuel, then do so, and replace it onto the filterheader. I was unable, so I rested it on the framerail, filled it with clean fuel,and replaced it on the header. Tighten everything up the way you found it. Voila! You're not done, but you are close #ad
.

Near that big header nut, there's a little valve-screw. loosen it. under-neath the filter, on the side of the block, locate the manual liftpump. It's a plunger covered by a rubber boot. It'll be easier to find by touch than by sight. Just have your watch, rings, etc off while you feel around in there, in case you discover electricity!

Pump the plunger a few times until the airbubbles are cleared from that little valve. (alternately, you might also have success by turning ign key to "on" position and letting the electric pump do the work)---Close the valve.
Crank the truck. It should fire, may sputter and cough a bit, and then run smooth as the last bubbles travel thru the injection system.

I did it twice,and decided to give myself a Primelock for my 35th b'day. best $185 i've spent!

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mildly BOMBed 98. 4 1B7KF23D4WJxxxxxx-- BD's #5 plate and 210HP injectors--BD Brake and the associated transmission bomb goodies (except for TC,currently), 4" open exhaust (short),Psychotty, camper shell, Warn front receiver, G159Unisteels on Rickson 19. 5's. . CD player is bone stock, so are the seats. PrimeLoc, also remote spin-on filter for the auto trans... Pyro,Boost and Trans temp from Isspro,
Westin nerf rails(black),
bent welding rod to hang celphone on dashboard...
240HP on Dynojet from 75-105mph drumspeed.

 

[hv2hunt]

UGHHHHHHHHHHHH just looking at that mess makes me want to call Geno's and get a remote filter for it... . I looked at mine (24v) and breathed a sigh of relief... Thanks for all the info guys. I'm going to tackle this beast on saturday. .

 

[illflem]

hv, after you do it a couple of times you'll get the hang of it and it's not all that bad. I feel a remote filter is a waste of money, plus it gets in the way for doing other repairs and maintenance. If you purchase fuel from a busy station it's likely you can go 15-20k or more before changing the fuel filter, this is where a fuel pressure gauge pays for itself quite fast. Much cheaper than a Prime-Loc, and can be used to diagnose other problems as well.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[The patriot]

It isnt all that bad. I have a 98 with ABS brakes. (yes, it makes a difference)
1 Drain filter unit.
2 Remove drain line, and "water in fuel" electrical hookup.
3 Get a 9/16" box wrench (a short one will be better) ~or~ a 9/16" 3/8 drive socket and wrachet. Remove the nut on the top of the housing, and loosen housing.
4 Work the filter housing containing the filter towards the front of the engine. You'll be working around various lines, hoses cables etc. etc. The best place on my truck to get the filter out is up by the battery area, next to the air intake line. This is the only place I've found that the filter housing assy will fit through. (still scratches the paint on the air intake line) You might just want to put it on a frame rail, and get it from below.
Assembly is reverse, except you have to prime the unit. That will be the accordian like button next to your lift pump. I always try to put some conditioner in the housing before I put it back on the block. Makes it more of a challenge, and less to prime. #ad

Eric

 

[Bill Stockard]

Hey guys,

I found on my '97 3500 with full antilocks that a 3/8" dowel rod worked perfect for working the primer button, You can stand beside the truck and pump the primer--no standing on your head trying to reach down there and scratching up your hands and arms.

Bill

 

[hv2hunt]

Illflem that's a great idea but how easy is the fuel pressure gauge sounds like a better idea. . thanks. .

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[illflem]

A fuel pressure gauge can be very easy, some folks are just removing their boost gauge line and connecting to the bleed port on the filter outlet via an adaptor for temporary readings. Check the archives there is much info on it, remember though that 12v fuel pressure is higher than the 24, not all that applies to us applies them.

 

[hv2hunt]

Thanks guy the chore is done. . Wasn't that bad. Thanks, Illflem for talking me out of the primelock. I'm sure he'll find something else to buy for his truck with the money he saved. (pressure gauge)