Hey Tractorat,
It's really a pretty simple job. Because I've had a lot of trouble with the water drain valve not sealing properly, I have chosen not to open the valve before changing the filter. I made this as simple as possible by including lots of small steps. So don't let the length of the post fool you. It's really pretty easy.
So this is how I do it:
1. The filter is located in a black lid / gray body canister about the size of a large coffee mug on the drivers side of the engine almost all the way back. It sits just a bit lower than the top of the engine making access very easy.
2. You will need a socket to fit the nut that sits on top of the lid (it is actually part of the black lid of the fuel filter housing). The lid is actually made of plastic so make sure your socket is the correct size. I can not remember the correct size of the socket at the moment, however I bet someone here does.
3. Now that you have the correct socket, a socket wrench an extension (to give you a bit more room) and of course the filter your ready to tackle the easy part.
4. The book says to drain the fuel from the filter housing first. I'll let you decide. I do not drain my filter housing because I've had several issues with the drain valve not closing/sealing properly once open. By the way, the valve I'm talking about is located on the front of the filter housing (the side facing the front of the truck) and connects to a piece of tubing leading towards the ground.
5. Using the socket wrench, loosen the filter housing lid. If your like me, you'll end up spilling a few ounces of Diesel so don't change the filter over you wife's flower bed. I actually put a couple pieces of yesterdays newspaper on the ground under the engine to collect any spillage.
6. Once the lid is loose, lift the lid and filter up and off the housing. The filter actually snaps onto the lid of the filter housing. The filter will be saturated with Diesel, so have a zip lock bag (or any plastic bag) ready.
7. Unsnap the dirty filter, put in the plastic bag, and dispose of it in the garbage. I like to look at the old filter just to make sure nothing weird has been collected. The filter will look black and dirty especially when you compare it to the new filter. This is completely normal.
8. The new filter will snap in place just like the old one came off. So wipe off the lid, snap a new filter in place and your almost ready to install.
9. Check your filter housing. There will always be a bit of "stuff" in the bottom of the filter (it will look like fine sand or metal shavings). This is normal. If you choose to empty the filter housing this debris (most of it) probably drained with the fuel. If there is a lot of debris or if I'm board, I will grab my manual suction and clean the housing. Otherwise I just skip to the next step.
***By the way, be sure to put an old cup or bottle under the drain hose before you drain the fuel (if you choose to). Diesel has the ability to spread everywhere including under the dogs paws and the kids shoes, which means it will be tracked into the house. Not a pretty picture when the wife gets home.
10. I like to put a touch of oil (usually of the dipstick) on my finger and run it around the O-Ring that comes pre installed on the new filter. I probably don't need to, but just in case, I am assured the new filter will "slide" in to the housing.
11. Put the lid/filter back onto the housing and gently tighten. You don't need to over tighten. Just make it snug. I'm sure there is an official in/lbs rating, but if you keep in mind how much effort it took to remove the lid, that's about all that you want to apply when re attaching.
12. Check for leeks while refilling the filter... Here is where you will "bump" the starter. Put you key in the ignition and attempt to start the truck BUT do not actually start the truck. You just want the starter to barely turn... a quick rruuurr. Leaving the key in the ignition, go check the filter housing. The "bump" procedure activates the lift pump for about 30 seconds allowing the filter housing to be re filled (remember you removed some fuel either by draining the housing, spilling a bit of fuel on opening the housing and the filter was saturated with fuel). Check for leaks. If there is a leak around the filter housing you probably did not tighten enough. You will probably never have a leak, but you always want to check. The other leak you could notice will be at the drain valve. My experience has been this valve does not seal correctly and a bit of fuel (under pressure from the lift pump) will leak out. The leak does not stop on its own, so you will be required to repair/replace this valve.
13. Assuming no leaks, repeat the "bump" procedure at least 2 more times. I usually bump the starter 4 times total, but that's just me.
14. Now start the truck. It might run rough for a second or two (a quick stumble) or not. It might also die after a second or two. DON'T WORRY. All this means is you probably did not "bump" the starter enough times to fully fill the filter housing. Repeat step 13. If it does continue to run, congratulations, you've changed the filter.
***I don't notice a fuel pressure gauge on your signature. If you don't have one, you need to get one. ASAP*** Going back to step 14, there is one other possibility, (one I know from experience) and that your lift pump was dead before you changed the filter. If this is the case, your truck will die like described, after a few seconds and you will not be able to restart the truck until the lift pump is replaced. The injection pump will run with a dead lift pump (although it will run without a lift pump, the lack of fuel pressure will eventually destroy the injection pump), but it will not be able to re prime the filter housing on its own.
Good luck and have fun working on your own truck.
Ron
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