2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Fuel gauage finally gave up the ghost

[JCyrbok]

Well I think after about 3-4 months of funky fuel level readings my fuel gauage has finally called it quiets, LOL. I'm thinking that the float has disintegrated (yesterday gauage said it was 1/4 tank but when I fueled up it took 30gals).



Has anyone come up with a cheap fix for this? Either a way to just replace the float vs the entire fuel pick up module? Any aftermarket options for just a gauage/sender set up or new float/sender?



If I end up having to do the whole module (which my luck is that I will have too, lol) is there anything to do to the module to to make the float/sender more bombproof ( I got 10 years out of the stock one so that is not too bad, but I see myself still driving this truck in 10 years from now so longevity would be good).



Anything else I should be looking at? I found it odd that for the past couple of months that when I would fill up the needle on the gauage would go to just short of the full mark, which it also did yesterday when I filled up.



Any other ideas? or suggestions would be great, thanks.



J-

 

[mwilson]

Just went thru the fuel system on my new to me '97.



Symptoms were fuel gauge on "E", low fuel light on and truck sucking a pile of air.



Ordered a replacement fuel sender only from Dodge, cost about $50. 00.



Used the fuel module over and did the "Draw Straw" upgrade. Well worth doing, if you are going after the sending unit you may as well plan to do the straw while you are there.



So for around a $100. 00 bucks you can take care of the whole mess.



I highly recommend removing the body if you have the means to do so. I did that and then dropped the tank to run new fuel lines and while we were right there we replaced the brake line that runs against the frame alongside the fuel tank.



Got it all in one shot that way.



Any questions, ask away.



Don't fear the "Draw Straw", very simple once you get it in your hands to see how it works.



Mike.

 

[BarryG]

You can get just the sender portion from the dealer should be $50-$60ish. There are methods to fix the sender that if you do a search on here you should be able to find. It has to do with the attachment of the float arm assembly and the wiper arm contacts. I cannot remember the details but it has been written up several times. If you want or need a whole new module check out Vulcan Performance. Vulcan compound turbo components, AirDog Raptor Systems, FireBall injectors, DrawStraw™, Big Line Kits, VP silicone boot kits, gauge installation components, metric adapters & fittings, FA, Quadzilla, Edge,AirDog, DTT Trans, ISSPRO, HTT Turbo, AFE, V bottom of the page shows one with a drawstraw installed. They also have them without the drawstraw. Significantly cheaper than the stock cannister replacement but does use the same sender setup which is included. You can also do what I did which was replace the sender with a capacitance type sender. Mine has worked flawlessly and still is but there have been some who have done it with less than desirable results. The following thread is my writeup of that and it also has some other feedback as well as a couple other options from the stock setup.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...el-sender-capacitance-type-install-notes.html

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Yep, what mwilson said.



Just did mine about 3 months ago. Sending unit only.

 

[Bob Cochran]

Use mileage instead very cheap. Sorry Had to do it.

 

[mwilson]

Ok Bob, :-laf



Yes, that is an option but I prefer to have a working gauge in the event that I blow a return line at 75mph in the dark. Good chance that I will see the gauge dropping before the truck quits while showing 150 miles on the trip odometer... ... ... :-laf



Mike.

 

[MLee]

I found that the inside of the tank is rough, and this is what makes the float disintegrate, and take on weight absorbed from the fuel. Mine started to give a bad reading, I pulled mine down and the float was starting to go away, not to bad yet. I washed it with solvent, dried it and covered it with Epoxy and then done a re-adjust on the float arm. Mine sits in a grove when full( measurement) and I lined it up in the middle as I tightened the locking ring. Also measure the OHM reading for the sensor to check it out while your there. I think its supposed to be 8-25 resistance top to bottom. not sure but close.

Your tank configuration is different than mine but you get the drift.

 

[Bob Cochran]

Sometimes just cannot help myself.



Actually every since I had the gauge stick at 1/4 when truck verily new and ran it empty I really have used mileage pretty much always. I got it fixed under warranty but still afraid the thing will do it again.

Ok Bob, :-laf



Yes, that is an option but I prefer to have a working gauge in the event that I blow a return line at 75mph in the dark. Good chance that I will see the gauge dropping before the truck quits while showing 150 miles on the trip odometer... ... ... :-laf



Mike.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Fuel sending unit fix

Fuel sender repair

2nd fuel sending unit right up

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ns/211404-fuel-sender-repair.html#post2041695

 

[SSolderitch]

I just went the stock route, mopar parts, mail order to save $ -. I took off front bed ground, disconnected filler neck to bed, loosened the back two bed bolts at bumper 1/2" inch. , remove all other bed bolts, I jacked bed near cab with port-a-power (harbor freight special) , but a floor jack and a some wood blocks and a 4x4 or 2 x 6 as a post, etc would work. jack the bed like a dump truck using the back two bolts as a hinge point. Add a block between the bed & frame as safety. Disconnect the lines with the tool, unscrew the nut, pull the canister, clean canister, use care with screen!, change float assembly and put in canister, turn on key, check gauge - you should see a reading, reassembly everything in reverse order & prime. The bed & canister has a alignment marks molded in, but I added a line with a sharpe marker. My float was completly missing.

 

[JCyrbok]

I just went the stock route, mopar parts, mail order to save $ -. I took off front bed ground, disconnected filler neck to bed, loosened the back two bed bolts at bumper 1/2" inch. , remove all other bed bolts, I jacked bed near cab with port-a-power (harbor freight special) , but a floor jack and a some wood blocks and a 4x4 or 2 x 6 as a post, etc would work. jack the bed like a dump truck using the back two bolts as a hinge point. Add a block between the bed & frame as safety. Disconnect the lines with the tool, unscrew the nut, pull the canister, clean canister, use care with screen!, change float assembly and put in canister, turn on key, check gauge - you should see a reading, reassembly everything in reverse order & prime. The bed & canister has a alignment marks molded in, but I added a line with a sharpe marker. My float was completly missing.

copy that is the route that I am thinking too. Where do you order the sending unit from?



Thanks



J-

 

[crasher]

Just went thru the fuel system on my new to me '97.

Symptoms were fuel gauge on "E", low fuel light on and truck sucking a pile of air.

Ordered a replacement fuel sender only from Dodge, cost about $50. 00.

Used the fuel module over and did the "Draw Straw" upgrade. Well worth doing, if you are going after the sending unit you may as well plan to do the straw while you are there.

So for around a $100. 00 bucks you can take care of the whole mess.

I highly recommend removing the body if you have the means to do so. I did that and then dropped the tank to run new fuel lines and while we were right there we replaced the brake line that runs against the frame alongside the fuel tank.

Got it all in one shot that way.

Any questions, ask away.

Don't fear the "Draw Straw", very simple once you get it in your hands to see how it works.

Mike.

I did mine, I lifted the bed to get access. Coincidentally I dropped the tank to get access to the rotted out brake line that runs between the tank and the frame rail at the same time.

I don't regret any of it, it's better to have the stuff working. And I replaced all the stuff with new just so I didn't have a fix go bad later.

I also found that the top 'nut' used to dog the whole system down tight into the tank was loose by about a whole turn. After about 240K miles, when I wiped the inside of the tank clean, it was seriously clean inside. I was surprised.