fuel gauge install

[ghillie]

Getting ready to install fuel pressure gauge. Couple questions, first I only want one gauge showing lift pump pressure, don't care about pressure across the filter. I understand the advantages to having two gauges, but the interior of the truck is starting to look like an aircraft cockpit already.



I will be hooking up the sending unit where the current schrader valve that is located on the injector pump. I got the built up banjo bolt from Geno's and I will be hooking the sending unit up remotely via a short piece of fuel line.



So my two questions are, is this the best place to install, at the current schrader valve location (what is the purpose of the schrader valve and will it be missed)? And what is the torque spec for the banjo bolt.



Thanks,

 

[Bigsaint]

I don't know what the TQ spec. is on the banjo but I would place the banjo at the bottom of the filter housing (outlet), not the inlet of the VP44. If I recall correctly, some members have used the VP44 inlet with a snubber line and still experienced sporadic readings. The short length of hardline from the filter outlet to the pump inlet seems to help stabilize the readings IMHO.



Scott W.

 

[X-10]

I got a piece of paper from Genos with my banjo stating that torque should not exceed 18 ft lbs. But you might want to go an easy 18, as I think I remember a member saying he broke his off at that setting a week or two ago. For what it's worth, I also agree with Scott on banjo placement.

Doug

 

[jweir]

Location

I just installed mine today, and I used the Schrader valve location on the VP44. I looked at the filter housing location, but the pump location looked MUCH easier. (yea I know, I'm a wimp ) I guess time will tell if the sending unit will survive. I used a hose barb and about 4 ft. of rubber fuel hose to get to the sender, which I mounted on a bracket on the firewall, so that should soften the pulses. I put in the Nordskog digital gauge and the readings seem steady, no fluctuations yet.



Jim

 

[ghillie]

If I install in the filter housing, what is the torque for that banjo??



Thanks,

 

[jweir]

Torque

According to Geno's, the torque spec for the banjo bolt is 18 ft-lb.



Jim

 

[Bigsaint]

I'm not sure that you could get a TQ wrench under the filter housing, unless you remove same from the engine bracket for the install. I just torqued my Weber fitting down 'till it felt right, worked for me.



Don't be afraid of attempting the install on the bottom of the filter with it attached, it is doable (sp?). You have to do it blind, by feel and another set of eyes peering through the fenderwell will help for sure. I didn't have that option and it didn't take long at all to reach down and remove/ replace the OEM set up with a Weber fitting/pressure port/ SPA sender and braided SS line. Thread your sender/snubber line/mech. gauge line into the 1/8 pressure port before you install the banjo bolt and use a open end wrench. Don't forget the washers !!!!



Scott W.

 

[ghillie]

Thanks for all the help guys.



I think I will be installing new banjo in the filter housing to lower any pulsing. Your info has been a big help.



Cheers

 

[3dracer]

I am confused!? There is a line from the lift pump to the top of the Canister. Could we place it there in that banjo? Is there something wrong here or am I lost? On the bottom of the canister? Why? Where? A little help Please!!!

 

[jweir]

Locations

3dracer,



You are lucky, on the '98, there is a place on TOP of the filter housing to tap for the pressure gauge. Those of us that had 99 and newer have a different filter housing and we have to tap on the bottom of the filter housing or at the injection pump.



Hope this helps.



Jim

 

[JPittman]

The 99 trucks (at least mine) still have the test ports on top to tap into for the gauge. Believe they changed it in the 2000 model.

 

[jweir]

Oops

Guess I had better look before I type next time...



Thanks for keeping me honest, JPittman



Jim

 

[JPittman]

Jim,



Tried to email you, but anyway, it's been a long day and after I made the post I even wondered about the ports myself, been reading too much on this site about the fuel gauge. I went to your website which is real nice, I was hoping to see your custom sender mount. Will that be on there soon, or can you email a picture? That is the only thing I haven't really solved yet... want everything neat and in place. Thanks.

John

 

[3dracer]

OK, thank you for the clarification. I knew something wasn't right. Are we suppossed to conect the snubber hose to the banjo and then to the sender? Is that the way it goes? Sorry if I sound so stupid, but me too, have been looking to much about these gauges.

 

[nevinst]

Braided steel hose?

I got my AM pressure gauge in and they recommend using the steel braided hose to the isolator. Any real need to do this or will fuel hose work fine?

 

[Nemies]

mounting location?

Yeah, I'm about to do my pressure too. I've got a '99 so it's way easier. I can't find a good place to stick the senders, though. What have other folks done?

 

[jweir]

Fuel pressure gauge

3dracers and nevinst,



I am by no means the expert here on this matter, but I think what you are saying will work. I just used diesel rated rubber fuel line and so far have had no problem. (well OK, it has only been 3 days ) The fuel hose has flex in it to dampen the pulses and I made sure to leave air in the hose as well. Someone else here suggested the air and I think it is a good idea.



Hope this helps



Jim

 

[ghillie]

Ok, I thought I was already to go, now you say use diesel rated fuel line.



I just bought some high pressure fuel line today, paid 5. 00 a foot. I suppose you're gonna tell me that won't work. I figured if people were using grease gun hose, fuel injection fuel line should be fine. So am I screwed with this stuff or will it work???



Thanks, yet again:--)

 

[jweir]

OK...

Kinda in over my head now... but I think what you have will work, if it is fuel line I would think it would work. Maybe someone who know for sure can jump in here and help you out.



When I said "diesel rated", I just asked the guy where I buy my parts if the fuel line he had would work with diesel and he said yes. I guess time will tell.



Jim

 

[Bigsaint]

ghillie, the line you purchased will work just fine, as long as it's rated for fuel it will work. As you stated, you paid more for the high pressure line. I did the same thing when I swapped out the first Mallory pump and wanted to replace the line. Paid $10. 00 for two feet of hose. The only difference that I could see between the high pressure line and regular fuel line was that the high pressure line has more reinforcement wound through the rubber. Probably a bit of overkill, as we are only talking about 15-20 psi's max. , depending on what lift pump set up you are using.



The braided SS line just makes for a neater install IMHO. If you want to use rubber fuel line with extra fittings it should be no problem.



As to bleeding the gauge... I didn't when I installed the Autometer mechanical gauge, just threaded in the braided line from the gauge to the pressure port and fired her right up, works great and has been for awhile now.



Forgot to add... think of it this way, the braided SS line that some of use are using still has rubber line encased within the braided SS, which the fuel flows through. I doubt that any one would say it's "rated for diesel", but it works well non the less.



Scott W.