Fuel gauge problem- do you think it's the sender?

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I've always checked the fuel mileage on my truck and during my last trip noticed a problem. I topped off my tank and when I drove away the gauge only registered 3/4 of a tank. I thought that maybe I had gotten a air bubble or something so I stopped after a few miles and got another 2 and half gallons in it. Now the gauge reads full, but starts to move immediately. It used to get anywhere from 50 to 75 miles on it before the needle would move. When the low fuel light would come on it used to take 25 gallons of fuel, now it will only take 20. The gauge doesn't move erratically, it just seems to be out of calibration. Any ideas? Do you think it is the sender? Thanks in advance. I should mention that it has done this on the last four fill-ups.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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There is a known problem with the sending units. Mine would stick on full though. It was replaced once under warranty. The TSB number is 08-42-99.

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99 QC SB 4x4 Auto
Factory Ordered
Most Options

 

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Yes, it's a very well known problem, and it's so frustrating that DC hasn't had the decency or professionalism to fix the problem.
I guess the post from Dave answers the question I was going to post as to whether anyone knew if the problem had been fixed in the newer model trucks.
What gives DC?!

 

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That unit has been replaced in my 95 twice. Under warrant both times. Out of warranty now and don't know what I'm going to do if it fails again. I watched them change it both times and I'm not sure it's a task I can handle by myself. There may be a better way but they used two guys and raised the bed up. Made it easy to get to though.
Chas

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I may not be much, but I'm all I think about.

95 that is lightly used. Dressed out nicely with 19. 5 wheels from Rickson Truck.

 

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Just had my sender replaced for the second time a few weeks ago. OEM died at 25,000 miles, replaced under warranty, this one died around 62,000 (replaced under extended warranty) - I knew that 7yr/100K plan would come in handy #ad
Both times, the gauge would read full - it would be fine to 3/4, then it would drop like a stone to empty - I once went over 200 miles with the gauge pegged on "E" the first time it died.

While the dealer was waiting for the sender to come in (parts ran out - what a surprise <g>), my dad borrowed my truck - I forgot to tell him - he tanked it up because he thought it was going dry, and only put in 13 gallons to get to F.

 

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I just replaced my last week. Put truck on stands fore & aft. Undone all hoses and electric connection put jack under tank and loosen nuts holding the straps. Lowed tank to floor and slide out from under the truck. I didn't have a strap wrench that would go around the plastic nut so I used a pice of wood and placed it on one of the ridges on the nut and tapped it with a hammer untill it was lose enough to remove by hand. On the fuel lines push inon the tubes and squesse the plastic clips and they slide right off. The electric cinnection has a red tab on top, slide it aft a little bit and then squesse down on the tab on top and it comes right out. When you pull the whole unit out of the tank there will be fuel inside it. I pulled my out and laid it down and dumped about a quart of fuel out on the floor. When going back up with tank had to get the wife to work the jack while I got the straps back on the bolts. I am very slow and it took me about 2 1/2 hrs.
Sam B.

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97, Lamanie SLT, clubcab, driftwood, 3. 5 spicer 70 rear axle
96 Coachmen Royal 285rk 5th wheel, 11,000 #

 

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What is the diameter of the plastic retainer nut on top of the tank? I want to know if I have the tools for the job before I start it.
Thanks

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

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Samb, I think you could get a job at any Dodge dealer. 2. 5 hrs is not slow for this job.
I've had at least 3 of these done under the warranty. (I stopped counting)

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 55,000 Mi as of 8/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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Tim,4" is a rough guess. I use 18" channel locks(tongue& groove pliers),they work great and are a nice tool to have anyway,work good on oil filters also. Less than $20 for high quality ones.

 

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Well, the problem is going to be fixed under warranty. According to my dealer, they had problems with the module along with the sending unit. I guess I can't complain though, the warranty is up in December and this is the first time it had to go in for a problem.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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This is my first time sending a reply, but I thought this might help someone else. I just repaired my fuel sending unit with advice from previous posts on this site. The simplest repair suggested was to use a teflon washer and a push nut. That was the hardest part of the job for me. I spent hours running from auto parts stores to hardware stores, looking for the washers and push nuts. No one in my area has anything small enough. I ended up cutting a washer out of a plastic strap, and I threaded the metal pivot pin in the sending unit assembly with a 3-56 die. I then put the plastic washer on followed by a 3-56 nut with locktite and peened the end of the pin for extra safety. To make the job easier, I just kept track of my mileage, and when I was around 500 miles the tank was pretty empty. I like the idea of a longer pin with a spring to keep constant pressure on the contacts, but did not have the capabilities to make a new pin. So far, my repair is working great. Thanks for the advice and the great pictures. This really is a pretty easy job when someone guides you through it. No specialty tools are needed, though as one member mentioned, the fuel line release tool would make that job much easier. My local Napa told me he didn't know of a tool for the dodge fuel lines. I told him that I read about one from Napa, so he looked it up. Sure enough, he found it for around $5. 00. Needless to say, he didn't have one in stock. Ok though, I did fine without it. Thanks again for the help,this is a great site. If I can be of any help, let me know. .

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Mine's been doing the same thing now for a month or so. I just looked up my warranty records and had one replaced at 11,000 miles because it just quit. I figure that makes this one warranted out to 47,000 miles. I have 43,500 now, so that's my story and I'm sticking to it when I call them Monday. I just went for a week on empty - about 200 miles before filling up with 24. 6 gallons. Extremely annoying!

 

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Joel,

Unless you have an extended warranty, you're out of luck on that second sending unit for warranty. Replacement parts come with a 12 month / 12000 mile warranty.
New truck had a 3 year / 36,000 which ever comes first.
You are now outside of that. Good luck but without an extended warranty the dealer would not be repaid for the work by DC.

I had a similar on the throttle cable on my 96 5 speed. They replaced at 18000 / 9 months and refused to replace a second time at 62000 / 30 months. Not quite the same in time and mileage but still outside of the 3/36K.
I'm on my 3rd sending unit / repair and it is not working. I've driven 3 years now using the odometer. God help us all if the odometer stops working.

David

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I replaced (the dlr) several senders before a fellow member enlightened myself and inturn my local dlr. They replaced the control module in cab and have had no problems since, knock on wood. That module eats senders. Happy Trails

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1999,WHITE,2500,AUTO,QC,S/B,ANTI-SPIN,CAMPER,TOW,SLT,6CD,CB,B&M TRANS TEMP GAUGE,REFLASHED,3. 5,241HD,CUST PKG 2CG, ARE TONEAU, ARMA-TUFF BEDLINER rear slider,8way pwr seat,cloth +, air-lift

 

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That's what the dealer told me. There were bad modules in 98 and 99 that were the cause of many fuel gauge problems. I'm just waiting for the dealer to get mine so I can have it replaced.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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What is the NAPA part number for the fuel line release tool?

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'95 2500 SLT ClubCab, automatic, 3. 54 LSD

 

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I'm not sure of the part #, but if you insist that NAPA does have one , as I did, they should be able to find it. If you don't have any luck, I can get it for you. The fuel line lock looks the same as a G. M. lock.
I'm 99% sure that my problem was the sender/float assembly unit, and not the module. There was excessive play and the contacts were not mating very well. It's working great so far. .