Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Fuel gauge sender question

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How do fuel lines come off tank?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) BHAF vs AFE

Status
Not open for further replies.
Read all the archives I could but I can't find this question answered.

Dropped the fuel tank to replace the fuel sender. Finally got the fuel tank module out and installed a new sender although I could not see any reason the old one would not work. My questions are; 1. the plastic 'sleeve' ( as pictured in Fig. 3, page 14 -13, 1995 Ram Truck Service Manual) that holds the sending unit on it's side and filter on the bottom will slide up and down in the tin shoulders that have three screws (two on one side and one on the other) to hold it in place. Is it supposed to move up and down? If so, how free and just as important how far should it move up and down? I can see score marks under one screw that would indicate to me that the sleeve was trying to move or had moved. 2. the Ram truck service manual I have says that you should replace the gasket and plastic locking ring. Is it really important to do that. I am not against spending the money; I just do not live very close to a dealer.

Thanks to all for any assistance. Tom/Idaho
 
The scoring is a problem with that style sending unit. . Mine was the same.

The problem I had with mine was that it abruptly caught and I ran out of fuel before I should have one day. I made a note of how much fuel I had burnt on the next fill up and compensated. I was running out at 25 gallons and now sumps closer to 30 (just over I think)

Mine only moved about 3 inches when fixed from what I recall.

My ring and gasket went back on. Some chrysler models had trouble with the ring deforming and allowing the tank to leak.
 
Thanks for your reply. If the plastic sleeve is intended to slide up and down what holds the fuel lines that are inside the sleeve in place. On mine the sleeve will slide up till one of the lines gets in the way and stops the upward motion, which is the place that I can see the 'scoring' on the metal shoulder at the top screw. Could I use a plastic tie to move/hold it out of the way so the sleeve moves freely up and down?

Again thanks for any assistance as I am waiting for help from here as all I have to do to make it run again is install the sending module and of course the 3/4 full tank. Tom/Idaho
 
i believe the whole sliding thing is so they can make one sender for all tank sizes, i add some large washers so the screws don't wear through the slots and the sender gets jambed. i took mine apart right after i got my truck and cleaned/tweaked the contacts and it's working fine, having a flatbed made that a couple minute no tools process, you know that you have it fixed if you get a clean up and down resistance reading on a multimeter as you move the float
 
The hoses are what was supposed to force the sump to the bottom of the tank. One of them in mine was coiled like a spring.

The top of the lines were clamped on and the bottoms I never looked at.



The washer idea is a good one. I just ground down the burrs and reinstalled mine. The bed has to come off again for paint so I will install the washers then.

I dunno about you all, and my brother and I are healthy sized guys, but i think taking the bed off is far simpler than dropping the tank. 8 bolts, some crews and wires and the bed is off. Maybe i'm just accustomed to it though.
 
i am a mechanic at a shop so i just hang the bed from some straps off the lift whenever i need to do one (cept my flatbed which has enough room :D ), a couple cherry pickers or a-frames/block and tackle would do the job
 
Or a couple of 300lb+ guys :D



I still don't think my sender is trustworthy. . I ran it pretty low and put 5 gallons back in. . It's showing just over1/4 tank. I guess that's almost dead on though.
 
When you install the washers, do you tighten it so there is no more sliding? Is there any reason the unit has to slide?

Thanks,

-john
 
i left them loose enough that it could still slide with a little pressure so it would be able to find it's correct level for the tank size, i don't see why it needs to be loose at all if you get it at the right spot, it's not like it needs to rise and fall with the fuel
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top